Peter P.

I should add; if you use the car stereo as a source, be sure the unit will play the format you've converted the music to. My Sony unit does play more than one format; I store my files on the thumb drive in an Apple format. I think the Sony unit will support mp3/4 and maybe others.

Solar panels, plus storage batteries would be my suggestion. I don't have any more to offer on that end as far as how much solar and storage capacity you would need, and it would certainly depend on how long and how loud you would play your system. As far as the memory stick, many car stereos, including mine, will play files from a memory stick, which is what I do. You could power any car stereo from a 12V car battery. You would have to find a stereo with pre-amp outputs so you could send the signal to your sound system amps. Done this way, the stereo would draw very little current from the battery because there would be no amplification involved.

Exactly. Connect some test leads from a 9V battery to the speaker terminals, but do it momentarily (tap, tap,...); don't clip them on and leave them on. With the "+" of the battery connected to the "+" on the woofer, you can verify it moves the driver out. You want the same direction of movement with all three drivers. Of course, with the tweeter you'll have to remove it from the horn to see. I don't know how much travel you'll see with the tweeter, but it's a valid test.

It's not clear to me what the correct placement of the foam is; please give me a clue. Also, is it worth gluing the foam in place, even if a permanently tacky or repositionable adhesive were used? One wonders whether the OP's foam somehow shifted, covering the bass port.

If you go through with the modification, please post pics and a review!

I paid that much for a pair a few years ago. When I arrived to pick them up, the seller said THREE-fifty. When I showed him a copy of the craigslist ad he admitted he made a mistake and I got them at the lower price. The top of one Quartet was warped from serious water damage. They played like real beasts, but were aesthetically too large for my living space. I sold them in 2 days for what I paid. Great speakers at a silly great price.

...like that on the Forte or Chorus II. If your speakers are parallel to the wall, the radiator is directing the wave straight into the wall. Wouldn't it just reflect back into the passive radiator and reduce the output or at least produce some cancellation? Seems like rear passive radiators would work best if they had a deflector placed in front of the driver much like the Klipschorn or LaScala, or if the speakers were angled relative to the wall. But unless you're speakers are placed in corners, most people don't angle their speakers against the wall for bass but for other reasons. Now that I think about it, I would imagine the same holds true for ported speakers as well. What's your opinion?

Agreed (I augment my Heresy's with a sub), but considering the original complaint with the Cornwalls, the room has a tremendous effect on bass. Forget about speaker placement; if the room is too large or open to other spaces, a Cornwall won't be able to pressurize a room with bass. Sure, the Cornwall can deliver bass if the volume is up (that's because it's TRUE bass and not some pumped up 100Hz crap), but the OP may be expecting bass impact at lower levels. In those cases, a supplementary subwoofer is almost mandatory.

P.S. Just so happens there's a kg sw on eBay right now. Personally, I think the price is about $100 high but, the end price is what someone is willing to pay, and their scarcity would sort of justify paying the price.

The kg sw certainly plays lower than the R-610f alone, and maybe that high pass filtering has something to do with it. Good luck with your search for the holy grail; let us know when you find that second one!

That's a tough call for me. The bookshelf + sub combination would cost less than either floorstander pair and would be a killer combination but I suggest you only go that route if you have a way to high pass the signal to the RP600M's. I'd want to alleviate them from trying to reproduce the low frequencies your sub would be reproducing, to protect the speakers particularly at louder volumes. Your amp doesn't have that feature. ;-( You could do what I did and purchase a couple assembled 80Hz crossovers, put them in plastic project boxes, and wire them to the bookshelf speakers. It's stupid easy and doesn't even require any soldering skills. If that's too complicated, then I'd suggest either of the floorstanders you're thinking of. They're true full-range speakers with a small footprint. And even if you aren't having luck finding local Heresy's on the used market, you should not discount older Klipsch floorstanding speakers that often go up for sale on craigslist etal such as the kg, R, KSF, or KLF series. I see deals all the time on the local secondary market. I'm certain you would be satisfied with any of those.

There's a pair of walnut Forte 1's for sale in CT for $1k.

It's not what they "need"; it's the max power they can handle. I'll second the Yamaha suggestions but argue you can get away with a lower powered A-S301. You're system is in a bedroom and not likely large enough to require a lot of power/efficient speakers to fill the room with sound. And I don't expect you'll be cranking a bedroom system. You'll be playing just loud enough to mask the noisy mattress springs...😃

I think what your ears are being drawn to are a 3-way speaker vs. your 2-way RP280s. If money is an issue, buy Heresy's and use your existing subs. What you've read about the Forte's vs. the Heresy's is likely due to the Forte's being able to play lower. Sure; Forte's have a different horn configuration which may voice the mid-range differently than the Heresy's; you'll have to listen to both to see if you prefer one over the other. Forte's with subs would be overkill; Heresy's with subs would be virtually a necessity to compete with your RP-280s, but you'd save money in the process. If it truly is a small room you're in, get the Heresy's just because the Forte's would be too much of a physical presence in the room.

Great, detailed review! Interesting that you prefer the lower output setting. As long as you enjoy it, good for you. The fact you noticed a difference just by adding the kg SW to the Heresies says the sub is no fluke but a real addition. The kg SW in my basement system has the ports facing the room. I tried them facing the wall but I'm within a couple inches and figured that was too close, without the option to move it away from the wall, and I couldn't tell the difference in sound anyway. But I certainly can tell the difference without the passive sub. It magically turns Heresies into full-range speakers without the higher end Heritage prices. I like the fact it actually high passes a signal to the satellites rather than a passing a full range signal. Those people at Klipsch are smart.

You should be able to remove the super glue residue with acetone. Practice on a scrap of cardboard to see if it leaves a stain. I don't think it will because it evaporates so quickly. Try the vacuum method. You may improve your chances of success if you dampen the dust cap with some water from a spray bottle. I think rmlowz's advice from his experience was useful. It was certainly something that never would have occurred to me. Listen to the Dear Abbys of the forum. Not just because they're Klipsch Heresy's. First it's the dustcap, then the car. It WILL progress from there.

On second thought, I'm inclined to suggest Klipschorns would not be a great choice for that room unless you do all that record case moving to put the speakers against that long wall. I'm also wondering how the low ceiling height would impact the sound of such a speaker. You might be better off waiting for a used pair of LaScalas to put against the short wall, and tuck a subwoofer in the corner next to the record case. We ALL want Klipschorns but unfortunately not all of us have the living situation to accommodate them, including me. Life sucks, I know! Offer the pool table up for free on craigslist ("You can have it but you gotta move it!") and see how fast it goes. It came with the house for a reason...

The difference in resistance between 14 and 16 gauge wire at 50 ft. is an inconsequential 0.01 ohms. Remember; if you're going to run the wires inside the walls, approved wiring must be used. It's a fire safety regulation.

If you're going to place them against the short wall, there will be some shortcomings as well as work if you can move that record case. The left speaker won't have the suggested 4ft. minimum side wall so bass will be compromised. The record case on the right side will partially block the bass opening of the right speaker. Also, do you have a plan to elegantly and safely run a speaker wire past the door to the right speaker? You might be better off placing the speakers against the long wall where the record case is, and breaking up the record case, placing sections at various locations in the room.

THIS. Yes; corner and wall placement will increase bass response. But for you there is a trade-off: bass vs. that holographic image you seek. Even if you don't have the room to permanently place your Cornwalls away from the wall, try moving them a foot at a time just to see if you notice any changes, good or bad. It's a fun experiment, and it's how we learn.

It IS a self resetting circuit breaker for the tweeter.

With front porting, positioning from the wall behind the speakers is not important, bass-wise so you have more flexibility in placement. With rear porting, often the manufacturer will recommend a minimum distance between the rear port and the wall. For instance, the manual for the Heresy IV recommends 12" minimum between the rear port and the wall. I'm sure placing the port too close to a wall disturbs air flow out of the port.

While the dollies might not be a "great look", you can transform them with a little woodwork. Why not attach hardwood or veneered skirts around the dolly bases to hide the wheels, leaving a small gap for rolling around? Granted, the dollies are likely not the exact dimensions of the speakers, so either modify them to mimic the factory risers, or make your own. If you're not handy to do this I'm sure you could find a local woodworker to build them.

Here's a cheap experiment-even though you've checked polarity, deliberately wire ONE speaker with reverse polarity. What if something else in the chain is not wired correctly (possibly internal where you can't see it). This test is free and it won't hurt to try.

People aren't listening critically, or focusing on the music at all, at parties. Just be sure no one rests their drink on your speakers. 😉