Peter P.

The seller is an audio snob. A 20W solid state amp with those LaScalas will rip your eyeballs out if you want to. Of course, they'll still sound glorious at more sane listening levels. Otherwise I'll bet you couldn't tell the difference regardless of what power they're connected to. Buy the LaScalas. A report of your findings on this forum is required!

True story: I'm mentoring a new employee. He doesn't talk much, but he did tell me he was watching a series currently on TV about Jeffrey Dahmer and it interested him. I don't own a TV, so after work I went to the library and picked up a book on Jeffrey Dahmer titled "The Man Who Could Not Kill Enough" by Anne E. Schwartz, the reporter who broke the story. The next day I bring the book into work, show it to everyone and explain why I chose the book. Then I say, "The book's kinda dry reading. But it does have some good recipes!" I had people in tears!

Thanks for the clarification. But I only see two crossovers in the photos. Shouldn't there be a crossover for each driver?

While a transformer is not a crossover, a transformer can attenuate or increase the output of a driver. A crossover will direct certain frequencies to the proper driver and alleviate the load on others. For instance, a high pass crossover will deliver high frequencies to the tweeter will sparing it from trying to reproduce midrange sounds such as voices.

Those are heavily modified, even if the cabinets ARE Cornwalls. The different drivers, lack of crossover, presence of the tone control- I'd next suspect the cabinets themselves are not Klipsch. But for $150 I'd say you got a deal. Get rid of the tone control and transformers, buy a REAL crossover from Crites as that might restore the bass, and be done with them. Heck; you could sell them for $300, double your money, and just call it an interesting experiment.

Because even if the cabinet IS resonating, it's at an inaudible level. Just because you can put your hand on the cabinet and feel it vibrating doesn't mean you can hear it. The Heritage series speakers are popular because they just WORK. I'm sure Paul Klipsch would roll his eyes, and flip around his Bullshit Button if he heard some of the technobabble justifying bracing, special woods, etal.

I feel all this "match the amp to the speakers" stuff is a crock. The manufacturers could not afford to market something that had so limited of a use, and the specifications of amps are so good that I feel our ears can't tell the difference. In my opinion, ANY solid state amp, just like your old NAD, will be fine. And you don't have to pay the big bucks your budget allows. Here's what I would do: buy an amp like the Yamaha A-S301, which by the way I have connected to a pair of Klipsch Heresy's and it works fine. Frzninvt's suggestions above are good as well, albeit more expensive. Then secretly have your beloved NAD repaired and surprise your husband! Put the "placeholder" amp back in the box and hold on to it for another day.

Then you need NEW CAPACITORS! Yeah; that's the ticket! 😁

Reading the thread about plugging ports made me wonder; would it be worth it for someone to offer aftermarket plugs for various speakers? I'm talking something that LOOKS halfway decent particularly if the port is front-facing. I mean; you could stuff the port with your mother-in-law's cooking, but that would only work until you wanted to revert to a ported speaker, of until the dog found it.

If you can't get the composite horn, an alternative would be to line the outside of the horn with Dynamat. That will eliminate any alleged "ringing" of the aluminum horn. After all, the intent of the composite (other than possibly mfr. cost savings) is to eliminate any possible resonance, no?

If your Velodyne is going into protection mode "pretty easily" then obviously you're playing at levels beyond the sub's capabilities, and below your bass tastes! I would buy a second 12" sub, probably on the facebook/craigslist market, and see if two subs gives you the level you want. You can always sell it, or both of them, later and get a matched pair of whatever brand you choose. Two subs are often recommended to even out the bass coverage in the room and I believe it results in 6dB of gain. That's a good amount vs. 6dB of more watts.

So does what you're saying is in your example above mean that since the woofer's natural low frequency cutoff is 48Hz, that a recording with high energy below that frequency can't move the cone and damage the woofer? Seems to me if you're playing some rap or EDM, those frequencies are going to reach that woofer electrically, regardless and I would expect the woofer to try and reproduce it if the signal is there.

1. I would think a bandpass filter would make sense; it would roll off frequency response on the high end toward the tweeter or midrange, and at the low end it would provide some protection from frequencies below the designed low end from causing over-excursion of the woofer. Replying to wuzzzer above; I blew a 6.5" woofer in a sealed cabinet, which was my first experience and why I brought up the issue. 2. The in-line fuses would be a great idea; I would expect speaker manufacturers to publish such tips in their owner's manual but they never do. Or better yet; include the in-line fuses with the speakers as some companies did in the past. 3. Turn it down? You know, you said that on a KLIPSCH FORUM...!

We know that woofers can be damaged if they're over-driven at low frequencies, especially frequencies below their 3dB cutoff. So why don't more manufacturers protect their woofers electrically with bandpass filters? It may not be a perfect solution but I expect it would help.

I can't wait to see gigantic's progress on these speakers! The pics are great!

You're experiencing Heresy's and it's just the way they sound. Even with the new, ported design they still don't play as low as many lesser speakers. Heresy's have what I call "muscle" but they don't play that low. Continue to rely on your subwoofer and just play with the crossover from the sub to the Heresy's if you can. From your description, to me it sounds like your subwoofer's output level is too high. A different amp isn't going to change anything. I don't have an answer to what you're experiencing with the midrange. Finally, in my opinion your room's acoustics have a tremendous effect on your system's performance. But that's a whole 'nother subject. I have Heresy II's with a subwoofer and I approve this message!

Honestly; those things just ooze history. I don't think you should look at them as something to restore to original if it's resale value you're thinking. Purists will scoff at all the mods you had to do to "restore" them and you'll never get the ROI if you sell them. I also don't think you you could restore the woofers to original as no one makes those accordion surrounds. You did the right thing buying replacement woofers. I also wouldn't go crazy replacing capacitors or other drivers at least until you've listened to them. If it's not broken, don't fix it. I say save the labor of building new cabinets. Remove the Velcro, patch, sand, and refinish the existing cabinets in black (save the badges!) using your cabinet making skills and if you want to go crazy, paint the screws copper! All the nicks and dings from 1971 will just add character. Let the original wood grain show through. And don't try to port the cabinet. Unless you can accurately calculate the size and length of the port/path to get the low end extension correct, you're messing with the properties of the universe! And don't forget to show them off here when you're done.

Crossovers don't usually blow, and if they did they certainly wouldn't blow all three driver outputs simultaneously. My money is on the AVR.

If the Klipschorn were discontinued, you'd see the same market uproar as when the market threatened to discontinue: 1. The Ford Mustang. 2. The Chevrolet Corvette. 3. The Klondike Choco Taco!

As has been commented above, it appears the store owner knew what he was doing, as if he'd been in these situations as a store owner or otherwise. The "coincidental" convenient presence of the knife as well as the fact he approached the thief rather than defend an attack. I'll concede the store owner had a right to defend his property, but it sure looked like he was experienced or had a plan. This wasn't his first rodeo. The "fight or flight" comment is a classic, legally sound defense when such an unbalanced use of force vs. the perpetrators, is used. It can absolve a lot of legal sins as long as it's quickly uttered by the victim.

Re: The separation. Of course, looking at the photos none of us can be sure whether it's just the veneer or the MDF panel. If it's the MDF, I'm here to report they can be fixed as I just did it for the second time (a different panel this time) on my Heresies bought used. I posted my method somewhere in the history of this forum but to recap: Put painter's tape along the edge of one separating panel. Scribe a line on the tape with a pencil 1/2 the width of the cabinet thickness. I measured 11/16" adjacent to the grill which I assumed was likely the panel thickness, so I set a combination square at 11/32 and used it to guide my scribe line. I closed the gap by hand and drilled 4 equidistant holes smaller than a four penny finishing nail. I used 1 1/2" nails. I hammered the nails in using a nail set to countersink the heads just below the surface. Applied a little Minwax Blend-Fil pencil in the indents and smoothed them with a finger for a solid, invisible repair. Pics available if you want 'em!

Purchased from Parts Express, 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick roll of gasketing tape. I used about ten feet of the 50ft. roll on my Heresies and need no more. By my rough measurement, there's about 40' left. Easy to follow curves, compresses well and mounting screws penetrate with ease. I ship the roll to you at no cost, with one rule: when you're done, if there's enough left over for someone else, you pass it along just like I'm doing. Send me a message via the forum if you're interested.

I would try applying some Lemon Oil. It will immediately soak into the scratched, unfinished fibers and darken them without changing the rest of the finish. Not sure? Test the lemon oil on the bottom of the cabinet first. If you want to try a Minwax Blend-Fil pencil, press hard so the wax fills the scratch. Then rub your finger over the filled spot. Finger heat softens the wax and allows it to fill the scratch while the rubbing removes the excess. Again, if you're not sure of the color match, try it on the bottom of the cabinet first. It's common to buy a couple different colors at the same time to test for a best match.

Can you show us what the clutter looks like? It will give us a better idea for a solution.