Peter P.

What I was thinking of was a SMALL version of the Cornwall: Essentially a Heresy (same components and rough cabinet volume) with just enough increased height for a single, or maybe a two-section rectangular vent along the bottom ala the Cornwall. Maybe the only way Klipsch could get satisfactory increased low end extension on the newest Heresy was to port it out the back or maybe if they vented it out the front like I suggest the cabinet volume would be insufficient.

The Heresy came first (1957) and its full-er range brother the Cornwall, arrived in 1959. The Heresy IV was designed with an improved low end extension using a rear port and a slightly larger cabinet. I thought: Wouldn't it have been interesting had Klipsch designed the Heresy IV as a "mini" Cornwall-instead of a rear port, a front vented design. I'm of the unsubstantiated opinion that vented and ported speakers perform (sound) differently at the low end even though I have nothing to back that up. So do you think it is possible to design the Heresy as a mini-version of the Cornwall with say, two front vents just to retain the Cornwall type looks, and possibly get that Heresy IV low end extension? Do you think that wasn't done for financial, performance, or aesthetic reasons? From a marketing standpoint, I'd think it would be a great way to advertise the newest Heresy as having Cornwall-like performance in a smaller package. Feel free to go wild discussing this!

If you want to dampen your Klipschorns, hit 'em with a hose. If you want to damp your Klipschorns, that's another matter. 😀

Interestingly enough, the RP-280 manual does not recommend a distance from the front wall to place the speakers. The only suggestion I can make is to experiment. The distance from the wall will increase or decrease the bass reinforcement. I say as long as the port is not blocked, you're okay. Aesthetics matter, and if you think the speakers look too large for the room, then perhaps they are. Compared to the TV size, to my eyes the speakers do tend to distract the eye.

I believe early Klipschorns were single units because stereo wasn't a thing yet. That single Klipschorn is a REAL piece of history.

I should have been more accurate: Look for a SWITCHING DC supply. Any chance you can put the box on an oscilloscope and verify the waveform?

Your battery box is a DC switching power supply. Your DMM is measuring the switching frequency. You'll find what you need if you look for a 4.5VDC supply. Report back when you get the problem resolved. In the meantime, we'll be looking north for the mushroom cloud. 😁

Oh yeah?! You were lucky; I was so poor I couldn't afford even ONE speaker, and had to connect the speaker output wires to my fillings! Apologies to Monty Python.

Earlier this week I was down in my basement either working on a bike or working out, listening to my stereo. I usually listen to FM radio. The system is a Yamaha receiver, output to a kg sw subwoofer, with the high pass outputs connected to a pair of kg 2.2s. Everything was fine. On Friday I go down to the basement to work out, turn on the stereo, and only the left channel is working. I can hear the right channel intermittently struggling to do something. Sounds like an intermittent speaker connection issue. I disconnect the receiver from everything, remove it from the shelf, and make a test setup using one speaker. I check the speaker connections on the back of the receiver with no change. I check the inputs and outputs on the kg sw. No change. Must be the receiver's internals. I remove the cover and tap around, hoping to find a bad solder joint or something. Nope. Using my simple test setup, I learn both channels work. I then ohm out the inputs and outputs of the subwoofer figuring if something is open circuit I'll see a different resistance compared to its sibling. Nope. I put everything back together except I forgot to connect the kg 2.2s to the subwoofer's output terminals. I fire it up and I can hear the subwoofer doing its job. I measure the signal voltage at the inputs and outputs of the subwoofer to prove there's no signal lost. Nope; everything looks good. I reconnect the kg 2.2s, and it works! No 'splainin', Lucy...

Just say no. Blocking windows any amount is a shame. After all; what are windows for but letting in light, and air. Choose a speaker that fits BELOW the windows or buy a smaller screen/TV that fits between the windows with room to spare for your main speakers. When you buy a house, you buy it to FIT YOUR DREAM AUDIO SYSTEM, everything else is secondary! 😀

Stick with what you have. While Heresies have a reputation, they don't play as low as your RP-6000f's. Sure; the Heresies will voice differently with a horn loaded midrange driver and your RP's are 2 way, but Heresies (I own a pair) won't be a revelation. Also, your listening room is relatively small so space is at a premium, and your RP's have a smaller footprint vs. the Heresies.

Pregnancy.

I have two. My main system is in the combo living/dining/kitchen of my condo. The only extra pieces I have are an integrated amp and equalizer, both boxed in the basement. They work together because the amp has preamp inputs/outputs. I sidelined them because I kept wearing out the on/off switch on the amp and would have to send it out for repair every few years which meant I'd be without music for weeks. Since I don't own a TV, I listen to FM all the time and it would be deafeningly quiet without! Heresies and a subwoofer here. Worn out switches finally got old, so I bought a new integrated amp. After installing it, I found replacement on/off switches for the old amp, bought a couple, repaired the amp, and keep it in reserve. Nothing exotic; around $400 in today's dollars. In the basement where I work out and wrench on my bikes is my second system, just a receiver and a pair of kg 2.2's on metal shelving, with a kg sw subwoofer. I bought the subwoofer used and it came without feet. Good thing I put feet on it; I had water down there once and the feet kept the sub from going for a swim!

There's no way you're going to remove whatever was dripping down the sides of the cabinets. You can try, to see what the results are, but I think even after A LOT of work it will as a minimum leave "ghost" images of whatever that was. You should perform tests with whatever stripping method you use, on the back of the cabinet as that is less visible by the user. I wouldn't try heavy sanding as it's possible to sand through the birch ply. Scotchbrite pads would be better. I vote for prep work and duratex if you're going to keep them. What are they worth? I wouldn't try to finish them, then sell them. Some buyers want original finishes so they can decide how to finish them. They may not like your choice of finish, and that will reduce the price. Leave 'em as-is if you choose to sell them. Peruse eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and Craigslist nationwide to get an idea of what they're worth.

I have a low voltage electrician contractor's license and I'm required to attend a continuing education class once a year to keep the license current. I don't do much low voltage work; I'm primarily an RF tech. So I go to class today and the instructor asks if any of us have installed A/V systems in residential settings. A couple raised their hands. The instructor then asks if anyone has experienced the following: You install the system, and the customer complains that "it doesn't sound as good as my neighbor's...". He then explains that he's heard this is a ploy; the customer isn't really complaining about the system performance but using the statement in an attempt to bargain down the price of the installation. Before he mentioned the real reason, I'm thinking "Well of course it doesn't sound like your neighbors; the acoustic environment is likely vastly different. Then I thought if I were a an A/V contractor, during any pre-sale inquiry I'd have to ask to see this neighbor's system so I could get an idea what the customer's expectations were. When the instructor told the real reason for the complaint, I tried to think as a contractor how I would defend myself against getting weasled out of some cash by a slimey customer. Only thing I could think of would be to refund the customer's money for the components, repossess them, and charge for the labor, which I would have expected pre-payment, of course. It would be pretty dirty of people to pull a stunt like that. I wonder how often it happens.

The space is too large for just a pair of speakers. It will be too loud near the speakers and maybe too soft farther away. Also your description of the interior leads me to believe there will be a lot of slap echo. Speakers will need to be close to the operators to be heard over machine noise. You need a truly distributed sound system, and wall and ceiling treatment to damp any reflected sound. I'd opt for pendant speakers hanging from the ceilings. If you were to use wall mounted speakers, they can't be facing each other on opposing walls otherwise there would be a lot of cancellation. They would have to be staggered. I think you need a 25/70V PA system with multiple speakers.

If you're concerned about color changes, test any liquid on the bottom of the cabinet first. No one will ever know, not even your mom!

Berlinetta Brewing in Bridgeport Connecticut is featured in this month's Connecticut Magazine (although the article is not on the web site yet.) The article mentions, and the magazine pictures show Klipsch Heresy's. So does the web site. Interesting concept and sounds like a cool place. I hope they do well.

I have sympathy for your plight. Sounds like it would be cheaper to move to the U.S. and buy the Klipschorns! "Start playing the lottery" would be my next suggestion. Or maybe ask the wife to take a second job? 😁

Bookshelf speakers with a subwoofer are a good solution where space for your speakers is limited. Nothing wrong with that. Below a certain frequency, bass notes become non-directional (omni-directional?) so having some distance between the subwoofer and the satellites is not a big deal. Buying large speakers, without a subwoofer, is to me more for convenience; fewer wires, no power needed for a subwoofer, less space taken up, particularly floor space as tall, tower-like speakers do. So yes; in a medium sized room a subwoofer and bookshelf speakers can be more than adequate, while preserving floor space. There's also a cost benefit; you may be able to only afford bookshelf speakers at the outset of a system purchase. But later, when craving more of a "full range" sound, you can merely add a subwoofer rather than sideline your existing speakers for larger, lower playing ones.

I repaired a pair of speakers doing something similar. My repair took a bit longer because I would lay a bead of whatever glue I used on only one of the four sides. Then I would set the speaker on blocks so the glued seam was facing up much like using V-blocks, hoping gravity would cause the glue to flow into the seam. After the recommended drying period, I would rotate the speaker and glue the next seam. I did all four sides of the front baffle, then all four sides of the rear baffle.

See THIS LINK for possible sources to have your tuner aligned.

Are your RP5000Fs wired out of phase with each other? According to the published specs, the RP5000Fs play lower than the RX6s (35 vs 38Hz), and the RX6s don't even list a +/- range. Could be Monitor Audio doesn't list a tolerance because they exaggerate the low end, and what you may be hearing with the RP5000Fs is a flatter low end response. To more substantiate my theory, notice Monitor Audio lists the high end frequency response of the RX6 as 35kHz. Really? A larger woofer doesn't necessarily mean lower bass response. The Klipsch Heresy is a perfect example.

You'd be better off just spray painting the screws you have. The OEM screws are likely copper anodized metal of some sort and not true copper, and as you're finding out, they're difficult to source.

You mean to tell me there's NO dealer in the U.S. that would sell a pair of Klipschorns and ship them internationally if the buyer was willing to pay for crating and shipping?