glens

In your crossovers the capacitors don't care, either, and there's no way anyone could possibly, reliably (repeatedly) tell any difference whatsoever!

I'm in the camp of "it's a high-level AC signal so it doesn't matter" and if anyone says different, well, I feel sorry for them. Actually, I (and I've made a living working with inductors up to the size of needing a crane to lift) don't see how there could conceivably be any valid rationale about it, one way or the other.

Certainly the battery is replaceable! Maybe not from Klipsch, but once you get the battery out I'm sure you'll find one at BatteryMart.com (or somewhere similar).

You did!

Dean likes nice whiskey; just sayin'...

1 meter is standard. What all is different on the experimental box. Just the horn and driver? And I'm curious how you came to get the horn(s?). Is there a raped Forte III in the vicinity?

The "negative" that caught my ear was the pronunciation of the name (two syllables instead of three - and one other similar though I've now forgotten what it was). But I'm forgiving in that respect because I'm guilty of the same sort of thing. I'd never heard anybody else say "anechoic" until that "audiophiliac" dude (forget his name) said it and I thought it odd until I looked it up and found it was me who was...

Without the base? I think not. The base is part of the speaker... I could check by measuring mine but I'm not going to. I don't even care that they included gain "in a normal room" in the sensitivity spec. It is what it is and I'm entirely satisfied with the end result. I didn't buy them based on the specs.

You can disconnected the antenna, or at least shield it, if nothing else.

Agreed, except perhaps about the class D. It's really hard to beat the Hypex n-core implementation, even with a rebuilt Scott.

No middle ground? I like you fine, but in this I categorize you as "over the top." I like your power distribution yard analogy. I made a ton of money working in them. Where's the hollow aluminum tubes?

Sorry, I was fixin' to shut 'er down at 0:59 when that weird shrieking thing a moment later made it way too late... To each their own, but that ain't mine.

What's that it's sitting on, like 1/2" thick and extending like 1/2" past the side? Is it part of the speaker? And are you hooked on the other side of that, or of the box?

Tell-tale signs in the area at the base of the stairs looks like the water only got a few inches deep. I hadn't looked that closely before, and by the amount of drywall removed had assumed the water had got much higher. ~12 to 14 inches or so. Maybe 6-inch (high) bases under the speakers would suffice for ensured protection after all.

Good enough is good enough, and "perfect airtight" reaches past that point.

Judging by the supplied pics, 6" wouldn't be enough "headroom."

That's when you know you've gone beyond the point where you can offer a reasonable explanation for what you've done with your time and money when you meet your maker!

You've got 3 originals? Just buy 2 of something that fits the hole, put one in each cabinet, and hold onto the third. Might not be ideal, and might not be worse. What have you got to lose?

I was routinely using the computer/modem for FAX 22 years ago...

Kicking butt or holding their own?

I was sitting out in my truck for lunch, and by the time I got the link pruned down to its basic form, and found this thread, then pasted the link, and accidentally hit "submit," it was time to get back into the hell hole. I don't remember just what I was going to say. Sorry.

The Modi 2 Uber has a DC input jack and a supplied wall wart. At least that's what the manual says.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-4311-WX-A-Speakers-Pair-Studio-Monitors/223900000449

Yeah, it's a diffraction horn. If memory serves it was something like 120x30.

Like my kid brother says: "You have to make mistakes to learn."