MechEngVic

It looks like the 13uf cap is feeding both the autoformer and the 2uf cap. I wouldn't call the 13uf and 2uf being in series.

When you measure at the speaker's posts, you're measuring the driver and its crossover.

What you are measuring with your multimeter is the DC resistance of the speaker's circuit. The 8ohm impedance that is refereed to in the speaker's specs is the AC impedence. And it's even get a bit more complicated than that. The 8ohm rating is a sort of average. During the speaker's use, AC impedence can be lower and higher than 8ohms. If a speaker says it's an 8ohm speaker I would trust it.

Interesting

Could he mean induction? As in the magnetic field of a woofer affecting induction of a crossover coil?

Is there a place on this forum or elsewhere you know of where we might find the specs to the woofers of the KLF 30, 20, and in my case, the 10? The Ciare specs looked close to me (not that that says anything). Can you please tell us what it is you see that's off or less efficient?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OPEN-BOX-KLIPSCH-RP600M-BOOKSHELF-SPEAKERS-WALNUT-RP-600M-PAIR/274203617035?epid=22024584559&hash=item3fd7cf270b:g:X1UAAOSwOIpdvu~d

The woofers for the KLF10, 20 , and 30 are all different. And yes, they are hard to come by. I've heard Klipsch will sell you replacement parts but I'm not sure if they still carry these woofers. Ebay has them for sale every once in a while. The KLF-30 has a woofer upgrade that fits perfectly and gives a big improvement in sound. https://www.usspeaker.com/ciare-hw321-1.htm It's possible the 10" version of the same woofer may work for the 20 and 10, but no one has tried it yet. My KLF-10's are still going strong. I am at least the third owner, and they are are at least 19 years old (KLF-10 production ended in 2001), and I play them loud and long.

http://ralaudio.com/stabilant-22-contact-enhancer-m-2.html?info=stbrv000

I'd spread them out all the way to the corners and toe them in. I'm assuming there's a little spot on the right side of the door for one.

If you follow Bob's directions, you should have no trouble replacing the diaphragms. They will made a bigger sound improvement than the crossovers. I've been happy with my titanium diaphragms. Don't let the initial increase in brightness discourage you, they settle in after several hours and you will be rewarded with a bigger soundstage, crisper highs, and a cleaner midrange.

Not for DAC's and speakers. For amps and preamps, yes.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?forums/digital-audio-converters-dacs.10/ Listen to Amir. DAC's should be transparent. You'll be surprised how many expensive DAC's are NOT worth the money, and how many inexpensive DAC's are very well made.

Position, position, position. Klipsch speakers are bright, period. If you are not running them through a tube amp or some high end SS, it's gonna get harsh at high volume. Pull the speakers away from the back wall, spread them out, toe them in, and turn the Hz on your sub to the max.

One of my first musical heroes is gone. May you roll the bones up in the sky. You moved us, you moved us.

They fit pretty snug in place on their own, they are cupped on the back side, the outer ridge wedges itself between the lipped edge of the basket rim and the edge of the cabinet, the inner ridge acts as a spacer and trim (you can see this ridge). They do not snap in place, they are screwed down but the screws used don't have enough of a flange to grab the taper of the screw holes on the ring very well, so its not a strong hold, more of a pressure fit. The screws mount against the basket, and the rings are kinda sitting around the screws. The rings have a second ridge running through their middle (same diameter as the screw holes) that acts like a spacer. What they are is glued in place. They have a bead of glue between the ring and the basket rim. When I pulled mine, I removed all the old glue, replaced the original screws with ones that have a wider flange that both holds the ring better and puts plenty of mounting pressure for the woofer itself, and I ran a bead of black silicone in place of the original glue to help with any vibration. I also trimmed the middle ridge where the other 4 holes of the woofers are and put screws in the other 4 hidden holes of the woofers for a total of 8 screws holding each woofer. They rings are slightly bowed out where I did this but it looks good and I feel better having 8 screws instead of 4.

I love your big wood horns too.

That was my subtle suggestion for you to do your thing with this pair.

All I know it that the pair you sold here recently were the best looking H's I've seen.

Klipsch sub 12, yes they are powered. No receiver, Dynaco ST-70 II I am interested in high level connection.

How would I connect a pair of these subs using the high level inputs? Can I use the high level right or left input by itself?

https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649578952-mp-301-mk3-mini-tube-amplifier/ https://smile.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-36A-Digital-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00A2QLC0O/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=topping+dac&qid=1578031098&sr=8-11 I think this pair would make a good looking and sounding office set-up

depending how the unit is wired, a failing tube might still affect the SS side. The fact that the hum started suddenly... That tube is the first thing I would check.

I hadn't thought of that...