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Am I the only one who thinks this thread should be "stickied" (SP?) at the top?

I have found myself looking for this very thread on more than one occasion.

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OH! OH! OH! Me...Me... I want to be a "Sticky God". [:P]

Oh... Wait a minute... That almost sounds a little dirty doesn't it? [:$]

Never mind. [;)]

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Hello Guys,

My name is Rui, and it is the first time that I write here...

I read a lot of things here that helped me to find a better way to listen to my Klipschs.

But, I have looked for a crossover's schematic of RF-62II, and, until now, I din't find. I've looked for at whole internet, and nothing...

So, can you guys help me?

I drop off the crossover, but I'm with some doubts about it. As I'll build another crossover, with others components, I need to be sure about the scheme.

Somobody has it (the crossover Schematic of RF-62II)?

Thanks,

Rui

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Welcome Rui good luck in your search. I too am looking for a schematic a copy of the CF3 or CF4 schematic, amybody? Best regards Moray James.

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Ok I have to ask the obvious...why did Klipsch change the Khorn crossover? From what I understand there was very little change with drivers they have used over the past 35 years other than a dalliance with EV for their midrange for a time now they are back with Atlas??

I'm not the best one to comment on this, but one reason was probably to correct a hump and a dip in the K-horn's lower middle-range below the 400 Hz crossover point. This has been a welcome change in the opinion of others.

In my own experience with the new AK-4, I got much better blending between the 3 horns and a more even response from top to bottom. However, I don't have charts or figures to support this subjective judgement.

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Guest " "

The later crossovers were designed with computer modeling and complex testing and included compensating circuits. Earlier xovers had greater dependency on how the horns limited sound coverage...meaning.....it was OK for example to use an AA in a khorn, Belle, LaScala because the horns and cabs participated in the sound segregating.

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Welcome Rui good luck in your search. I too am looking for a schematic a copy of the CF3 or CF4 schematic, amybody? Best regards Moray James.

Thanks Moray James... [:D]

As I didn't find, I tried to get the RF-62II's schematic with "my own hands"...

And I guess I got it! [Y]

It's a 12Db/8ª for all speakers, and in the tweeter part, there is a resistor connected in series and a notch filter (RLC in parallel).

The only value I didn't get to measure was the inductor of woofers ('X" - the biggest in the photo below)... There wasn't identification on it (as the others).

Take a look (Schematic of RF-62II's Crossover):

Posted Image

And it's a photo of original RF-62II's crossover:

(Up):

Posted Image

(Down):

Posted Image

If I find the value of the inductor that it's missing, I come back here and post it.

Best Regards,

Rui

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Hello,

I am new here, and I am the owner of the RF62 II RC62 and RS52. It sound well but I was thinking about to upgrade the crossover filter.
I think replacing all components by the same value. Caps will be ClarityCap SA. Resistor will be Carbon Kiwame.
The coils are the problem. I don't know which wire gauge choose
I hope you can help me with that.

RF-62II RF62 crossover

RF-62 II

RF-62II

RC-62

RC-62II

RC-62II

RC-62II

RC-62II

RC-62II

The RF-62II's schematic

The RC-62II's schematicRF-62II's Schematic

The RC-62II's schematic

RC-62II's schematic

Regards,

Fabien
France

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Fabien,

Welcome to the forum. I'm really no help on much of anything technical.

Others will chime in, i'm sure.

I'd think it would be a significant challenge to improve the sound on these fabulous sounding speakers. You've got a great system.

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Hello,

Someone could advise me on replacing the coils for RF62-II ?

I just need to know the ohm of each coil.

Thanks.

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as low as you can afford and as large as you can fit. Best regards Moray James.

Thank you Moray James. Another question. What kind of coil I should use ? Air cored coil ? Copper foil coil ?

Best regards

Fabien

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Well you are looking at the same kind of answer. Agood buddy of mine has a lot of experience with inductors and he does not like foil versions. Since you have the stock networks to use as a reference point you can build up a whole new set and compare the two that way size will not be an issue you can even wire them outside of the cabinet. Take a look at North Creek they make the best inductors that I know of.If you want some reference reading you can go to AudioKarma dotr com and read the crossover threads by SET12 there is a lot of great information there. Best regards Moray James.

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"as low as you can afford"

Deviating from the design DCR will change the Qes, thus the Qts, and change cabinet tuning and the midrange level (ask Dean G about his experience in this matter).

If you want to throw money at it, get a good air-core with the same DCR as the design calls for.

"I just need to know the ohm of each coil."

Yes, you do.

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lol.

I don't like messing with the coils, I've had too many negative experiences. People need to understand that every audible change is not necessarily a technical improvement (which should lead to audible improvement). Said simply - just because it's different doesn't mean it's "better".

On many of the Klipsch schematics, you will learn that the inductors are measured while on the board. Their proximity to each other creates some mutual inductance which is factored in. Now, this number is not static - that is, it changes when current is moving through the filter. The high pass coils are air cores anyway, so there isn't really any reason to replace them. You know, it's just a long wound up piece of wire -- how much different can another long wound up piece of wire possibly sound? When I do PCB work, I leave the coils alone.

In the low pass, you can cheat a little but not a lot. A small drop in DCR is okay, but if you go too low, well, it's like Dennis said -- you can ruin the entire low pass system. People love the look of the big air cores in the low pass section of a network, but if you properly match the DCR like you're supposed to, you'll hear absolutely no difference between it and the steel laminate you replaced it with.

When Al and me were working together on the redesign of the ALK, the first thing I asked was if I could dump the air core in the low pass and use a Madisound 15AWG steel laminate Sledgehammer instead. The money saved allowed me to drop the Sonicaps in the high pass and replace them with Mundorf Film and Tin Foils. Of course, the litz inductors are still part of the design, but the filter was designed with those -- so it made sense to keep using them (the DCR and Q of a litz inductor of the same gauge is not the same as the DCR/Q of a standard air core).

Put the money into the capacitors and resistors (Mills).

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