cirtap99 Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Ohh tried to get it from Klipsch...here is their answer: Dear Patrik, Hi Patrik, Thank you for contacting Klipsch Group Inc. Unfortunately, the schematic for the RB-81 II is not currently available for us to give. While the RB-81 II is a discontinued product, stock is still being sold through our authorized retailers. We would imagine that the schematic will become available once we and our vendors no longer have stock in the items. We apologize for any inconvenience. Thanks, If further information is requested by your support representative or if you have any further questions please use the link HERE. Please Do Not Reply To This Email Your Klipsch Group Inc. Team, Product Support Klipsch Group, Inc. Klipsch | Jamo | Energy 3502 Woodview Trace, Indianapolis, IN 46268 Phone: 800-554-7724 | Fax: 317-860-9178 Skickat från min GT-N7100 via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muda Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 I checked my RF 52 II crossover and LF is 1mh and 33uf thats about 900hz ok but hf is made of 0.3mh and 3.3uf and that stands for 5khz.So low pass 900hz and high pass 5khz, what happens in the middle 0.9-5khz, thats not made by the book at all.There has to be serious fall in the middle, opened it all to remake it to 3 way with mid speaker in added box upside the speaker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slestak71 Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Here is the T-4000/5000 xover. Very similar to HII but uses 47 uf on woofer leg instead of 68 uf and 1 uf on mid versus 1.5uf on HII mid and the mid and tweeter polarities are switched. I have the t4000's and am getting ready to overhaul and upgrade some parts (air core inductors, new caps...) in the xover and I am wondering what the effect of changing to the values found in the H2's might be. Or if it is even a good idea. I've had the speakers for over 20 years and have really put them through their paces. I have always loved them but found them lacking in that "tight Tom or Snare" region of the mid range. Comments? Suggestions?? This is my first post by the way. Thanks to all for the great info on this site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istics Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 anyone know about this...... I asked bob crites if i bought his 3636 autoformer for my forte ii's, if i could use a lower tap for the mid range to knock it down some in effect bringing the low end up in relation to the mids. He said if you lower the tap you would have to change the cap values. It seems to me looking at the schematic that the autoformer is the last thing before the skwaker so my thought was that you are only lowering the signal delivered to the driver and not changing the frequency content going to that driver right? I understand that this changes the relationship between the drivers and thus the changes how the speaker sounds but that is the point...to have less mids and consequently more low freq. ANyone tried this or have knowledge that confirms what bob said that you have to change the values of caps used in the crossover? here is bob's response Bass is the fundamental thing to measure when you build a speaker with a certain woofer and certain porting (or passive radiator in the case of the Forte II). The amount with these is not really changeable. What the crossover does is balance the midrange and tweeter to have equal output in their frequency ranges as the woofer does in it’s frequency range. So, you could give yourself more "apparent” bass by cutting back the output of the midrange and tweeter. Now doing that would take a new crossover design. You can’t just attenuate the midrange more with a different autotransformer without changing other parts to compensate and keep the crossover frequencies right. My suggestion would be to just change the crossovers capacitors to get the crossovers back into spec, and change the tweeter diaphragms to the titanium and then see if the speakers perform like you want. With the cheap worn out caps in there now, you have never heard the speaker perform like it is meant to perform. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) Bob is correct. When you use a lower tap, the autotransformer delivers less voltage / power to the driver. A "step-down" transformer. This reduction is accomplished because the input to the autotransformer reduces the electrical load on the amplifier (through the capacitor), which is to say, an increase in impedance "seen" by the amplifier. Very generally, the capacitor value and the electrical load value which it drives determines the crossover frequency. They must be chosen to get the correct crossover freq. When you alter the load by lowering the tap on the autotransformer, you must use a cap of a different value, which is what Bob is telling you. You will also see a different way of accomplishing something similar when you move the tap. That is to add a resistor so that the load (or combined load) remains the same. So you don't have to change the value of the cap. I suggest you follow Bob's advice. He knows his stuff. WMcD Edited April 26, 2016 by WMcD 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 I've check this thread and can't find a schematic for a Quartet crossover. Anyone got one? Thanks. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelt Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Quartet copied from page 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desjet Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) Hello, just looked into my Pro-7800-L-THX in wall speakers and i am confused. Network shows to parallel 220µF electrolytics on input and i ask myself what function do they have? Only to protect the woofer for low frequencies to get THX Ultra2 license? Good foil capacitors for tweeter network BUT before cheap electrolytics??? Edited August 1, 2016 by desjet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curl2u Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 I need help upgrading my crossovers on my cornwalls. type CBR serial 29W355 , B2 written on bottom. Do I buy the whole crossover or is it just as easy to get repair kit? what type Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 13 minutes ago, curl2u said: I need help upgrading my crossovers on my cornwalls. type CBR serial 29W355 , B2 written on bottom. Do I buy the whole crossover or is it just as easy to get repair kit? what type Here's the schematic. Order the capacitors from Parts Express, replace them yourself, or find a local tech to do it for you if you don't solder. Very simple. Order times 2 for both crossovers.... http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pmpc-20-20uf-250v-precision-audio-capacitor--027-252 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pmpc-30-30uf-250v-precision-audio-capacitor--027-220 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pmpc-20-20uf-250v-precision-audio-capacitor--027-214 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curl2u Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 thanks that's a great help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlson3 Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 is ERSE's !QX 4mH inductor with ~0.3ohm dcr a good choice for trying an AK3 lowpass on my K-horns? What is the dcr of the Klipsch 4mH inductor? fwiw I've heard the simple I stack can be cleaner than the dumbell lamination used in SuperQ - SuperQ with 14ga wire has dcr ~0.15ohm - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio2 Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 hello everybody, i am new here. does anyone have the cross schematic of the r-28f or r-26f please ? off topic by the way, for midrange band voices etc...better the 28 or 26 ? thanks again, cheers. ( I've searched for around here but i didn't find anything useful, sorry just in case ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) you can search for a very good upgrade thread at AudioKarma dot org on the R28f. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/klipsch-r28f-hyper-drive-crossover-replacement-project.698764/page-2#post-9510503 Edited October 1, 2016 by moray james additional info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio2 Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 hey moray james, super many thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Does anyone have a "clean" copy of the AB-3 crossover schematic. I copied one off this thread as I recall but can't read the values on my monitor or printed page. Any help appreciated. Hope i didn't miss a clean copy somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 (edited) see link Klipsch AB3 Schematic.pdf Edited October 5, 2016 by moray james better link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Klipsch AB3 Schematic.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Klipsch AB3 Schematic.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted October 5, 2016 Share Posted October 5, 2016 Thanks Moray. That's the one I printed and can't get it big enough and clear enough to read (No I'm not blind!!!)) I am specifically interested in what appears to be a series notch filter on the woofer but would love to have a legible full diagram. Any help appreciated. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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