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What to attach to LaScala sides?


Coytee

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One thing I like about the internal braces, is that it allows you to make grills.

I've been thinking about grills...

Stay with me for a moment...

Take a base LaScala. Take some (approx.) 2'x3' panels of 3/4" nice plywood. Make the panel about 3/4" deeper than it needs to be so you now have a larger 3/4" lip all the way around the front.

You now have a natural spot to flush mount a grill. The speaker side of the grill would rest along the current face of the mouth and the 3/4" border created by the new piece of plywood would serve to hold it (along with some Velcro or hidden magnets)

I'm thinking full frontal grill. (whether or not the braces are mounted)

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That is a good idea, but I do like the Belle look with the grills attached to the braces. But people have 2 options here, which I think is good. Maybe a good Idea for Youthman since he doesn't like the "Heritage look". He could make it look like a deep Cornwall.

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That is a good idea, but I do like the Belle look with the grills attached to the braces. But people have 2 options here, which I think is good. Maybe a good Idea for Youthman since he doesn't like the "Heritage look". He could make it look like a deep Cornwall.

Once they are behind the screen you won't see them anyway...

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That is a good idea, but I do like the Belle look with the grills attached to the braces. But people have 2 options here, which I think is good. Maybe a good Idea for Youthman since he doesn't like the "Heritage look". He could make it look like a deep Cornwall.

Once they are behind the screen you won't see them anyway...

Thats right I forgot he is putting his behind the screen.

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I would not use solid 3/4" wood glued to the plywood. Too much expansion/contraction with the weather. Odds are that you would end up with some distortion of the cabinet or cracks. Most large slabs of woods, such as table tops are mounted to allow for expansion/contraction. For beefing up the sides, you are trying to increase the mass of the wood, so allowing for changes in the wood is not practical. The proper way to add solid wood to the existing plywood would be to add the same thickness of veneer to both sides and the thickness limited to 1/8" or so. I know a lot of mods are made with thin veneer and thin ply glued to the sides and that seems to hold up due to the strength of the cabinet and the stability of the thin plys, but adding solid 3/4" is inviting problems IMO.

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I agree with the bracing method, did it on my LS's and heard the difference. If your set on wrapping, use the plywood, the solid stock will be a nightmare keeping it flat and you're right the solid stock will move at a greater rate than the ply. I still have my patterns for the bracing and would be happy to make paper copies and mail them to you.

Tom

Can you post a PDF of them?

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That is a good idea, but I do like the Belle look with the grills attached to the braces. But people have 2 options here, which I think is good. Maybe a good Idea for Youthman since he doesn't like the "Heritage look". He could make it look like a deep Cornwall.

Once they are behind the screen you won't see them anyway...

Thats right I forgot he is putting his behind the screen.

Unless ya'll are referring to someone else, my center LaScala will not be behind a screen. I might be in the future (I've prewired for a screen).

It will start life as a base for the 52" tv I have. If that's good enough so be it.

If I go to a screen, I'll have to debate junking the (yet to be purchased) K510 and pulling the TV down in lieu of setting a K402 atop the LaScala *verses* leaving the 52" tv, leaving the K510 (which I could easly do since it will be mounted on the face of the LaScala) and have the drop screen come down in front of the TV.

This way I could do movies in the dark but, still have a brighter TV available if the ambient light makes it worth it.

The room next to this room has a bunch of windows with a panoramic view towards the lake or onto the farm. I don't think wifey is going to put any curtains there (but we might add some sliding barn doors to close the room off)

So many variables right now.... just taking things one step at a time.

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Unless ya'll are referring to someone else

We where talking about youthman. But it sounds like you have a good plan as well. But for some reason I think, that is one things I love about the looks of the Lascala. Is that fold right in the middle, it kind of adds architecture.

Sorry to get off subject. But from what I have read and what sounds like what would benefit you, would be to add 3/4" plywood to the sides.

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That is a good idea, but I do like the Belle look with the grills attached to the braces. But people have 2 options here, which I think is good. Maybe a good Idea for Youthman since he doesn't like the "Heritage look". He could make it look like a deep Cornwall.

Once they are behind the screen you won't see them anyway...

Thats right I forgot he is putting his behind the screen.

Unless ya'll are referring to someone else, my center LaScala will not be behind a screen. I might be in the future (I've prewired for a screen).

It will start life as a base for the 52" tv I have. If that's good enough so be it.

If I go to a screen, I'll have to debate junking the (yet to be purchased) K510 and pulling the TV down in lieu of setting a K402 atop the LaScala *verses* leaving the 52" tv, leaving the K510 (which I could easly do since it will be mounted on the face of the LaScala) and have the drop screen come down in front of the TV.

This way I could do movies in the dark but, still have a brighter TV available if the ambient light makes it worth it.

The room next to this room has a bunch of windows with a panoramic view towards the lake or onto the farm. I don't think wifey is going to put any curtains there (but we might add some sliding barn doors to close the room off)

So many variables right now.... just taking things one step at a time.

I prefer fixed screens as I have heard of pulldown screens curling... Another thing is a fixed screen will always be exactly where it is supposed to be where a pull down screen could be moving back and forth due to your A/C or sound.

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I agree with the bracing method, did it on my LS's and heard the difference. If your set on wrapping, use the plywood, the solid stock will be a nightmare keeping it flat and you're right the solid stock will move at a greater rate than the ply. I still have my patterns for the bracing and would be happy to make paper copies and mail them to you.

Tom

Can you post a PDF of them?

The pattern is too big for me to scan and I never made a technical drawing, I'm rather IT challenged. But I'll look into it next week when I get back from my spring fishing trip.

t

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Be advised that the dimensions on the LS can vary a bit and those pieces wouldn't be the exact size for all cabs.

Bruce

Good point Bruce, I found I had to custom fit each brace. Placing the pattern on card stock or card board and then cut a bit oversize helps find the proper fit for each opening. Keep in mind the sides of the dog house and the sides of the bass bin may not be parallel.

Tom

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Be advised that the dimensions on the LS can vary a bit and those pieces wouldn't be the exact size for all cabs.

Bruce

Good point Bruce, I found I had to custom fit each brace. Placing the pattern on card stock or card board and then cut a bit oversize helps find the proper fit for each opening. Keep in mind the sides of the dog house and the sides of the bass bin may not be parallel.

Tom

I'll just keep monitoring you guys chat here, iv got four of these puppy's to Brace, and I like Morray's idea of doubling up on each side, what the hell, im already in there doing one brace each side, something about two sounds good also.

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the sides of the dog house and the sides of the bass bin may not be parallel

Well If Klipsch wasn't exact all the time, then I don't feel so bad with some of the cabinet work I have done. I guess without a cnc machine to cut each part exact every time, then its easy for humans to not be.

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the sides of the dog house and the sides of the bass bin may not be parallel

Well If Klipsch wasn't exact all the time, then I don't feel so bad with some of the cabinet work I have done. I guess without a cnc machine to cut each part exact every time, then its easy for humans to not be.

they were and are exact all the time they simply have made changes from time to time for reasons they felt were important at the time.

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They build the doghouse separately and install it into the outer walls of the horn. In doing so, there can be slight variations in angle that cause the front corner to not necessarily be centered (and it doesn't matter acoustically).

Using a tape measure, you'll find that the center of the doghouse can be as much as 1/4" off the center of the mouth. This is why the braces end up different.

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I would think attaching 3/4" mdf to the side panels would reduce the vibration and also add a lot of weight. I'm stunned that the 1985 cornwalls I'm redoing have no bracing at all in the large panels.

Another way to front mount the grill would be to use high strength magnets under some front edg veneer and also attach the magnets (using epoxy) to the grill frame. Doing that now on the Cornwall redo on the motor board.

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