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Triangle sub


dtr20

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I like the sonotube idea, but I know there is a ton of math to do to determine your dimensions, and I can't really find a ton of info on it. I can find a lot of finished projects, but not the basic information on how to start a build. I would like to keep it shorter than 21" which I believe means it needs to be wider. Then there is driver sizes, number of drivers, sealed or ports, size of ports, etc. How does this get determine? I think my Cambridge subs go down to 27hz. So I guess a good goal would be to get to 20hz?

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For an IB, I would have to cut a hole in my floor, wall, or ceiling, right? Or could I just place a downward firing box on the floor? Sorry, these advanced subwoofers are very new to me.

 

 

Gotta have a hole, yes.  You need some where for the back wave to go.

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Since we're on the subject of triangles, it is interesting to me how many pro audio cabs are using triangle ports nowadays.  It's not just a couple of Klipsch designs, it is all over the place.  B&C even has plans that show you how to build your own.  It is easy, cheap, and the inside of the boxes with triangle ports likely have smoother air flow.  Lots of people are building slot ports just to turn around and cut a 45 to smooth out the 90's, so obviously it helps.  If they're going to do that, I'm not sure why we don't see more triangle ports in DIY designs.  Maybe they're not as pretty, I dunno.  Also super low tuning would be hard, can't exactly make a triangle port that wraps around and changes direction, not very easily I guess.  

 

247-2033_HR_0.jpg

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Running longer ports is not hard at all

I'm just thinking super long ports. With a slot port all you have to do is put up panels and leave a gap at one end and you can switch directions easily, even multiple times. Doing that with a triangle port is much more involved. You'd have a triangle port on say the far left bottom corner, and to switch directions you'd have to run it along the back corner shortly, then switch directions, except at that point your triangle is inverted and there's no wall for the opposite side. In the meantime there's several angles. Just kind of goofy.

Think about duplicating this design with triangle ports for example. It's all fun and games until you have to switch directions on that bottom left corner. At that point, any advantage of triangle ports flies out the window.

 

s-l300.jpg

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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+1 on the Sunfire subwoofer, great for small spaces and work well in a corner. I'd go for the Signature 12" model, they're great especially in the lower frequencies like below 50hz and there only 13" square. You can buy the new XT models for around $1000 plus shipping from save-on-audio.com

 

http://save-on-audio.com/product_info.php?products_id=11243

 

 

 

post-58550-0-71740000-1457628796_thumb.p

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Running longer ports is not hard at all

I'm just thinking super long ports. With a slot port all you have to do is put up panels and leave a gap at one end and you can switch directions easily, even multiple times. Doing that with a triangle port is much more involved. You'd have a triangle port on say the far left bottom corner, and to switch directions you'd have to run it along the back corner shortly, then switch directions, except at that point your triangle is inverted and there's no wall for the opposite side. In the meantime there's several angles. Just kind of goofy.

Think about duplicating this design with triangle ports for example. It's all fun and games until you have to switch directions on that bottom left corner. At that point, any advantage of triangle ports flies out the window.

 

s-l300.jpg

 

 

 

Simply 45 your ends in the corner and use the back panel for corner port extension if needed.

 

Just because its different does not mean its harder to build.

Edited by jason str
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s-l300.jpg

This design looks pretty good and easy to build. Is this something to consider to get to the lower hz? What is this called to find plans? I'm also experimenting with the sonosub software to understand it first.

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This design looks pretty good and easy to build. Is this something to consider to get to the lower hz? What is this called to find plans? I'm also experimenting with the sonosub software to understand it first.

 

 

It's just a slot port, google "port calculator" and you can play around with some numbers.  The last one I posted is a transmission line though, entirely different beast.  I've been wanting to do one but can't figure out how to design one at lower frequencies.  

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