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Heritage_Head

**Veneer LaScala dog house tips**

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So Ive watched videos, and read threads on this topic. Info is a bit scattered. Have a few questions. I like cherry wood but open to other ideas. Thanks..

 

1978 La Scalas 

1. Some tips on places/stores, and brands of veneer to order from. 

2. How much veneer would it take to do a pair of LS. 

3. I know wood type matters but what is the approximate cost.

4. Im a bit confused on the edges (where two sides of veneer meet). 

5. Special tools I would need that a first timer wouldn't think of. 

6. Do the cabinets need to be sanded down to wood or just sanded smooth?

 

***** I changed The title. The dog house is really what Im looking for as far as tips thanks. ******

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Joe is helpful and had decent prices

https://www.joewoodworker.com/

 

How much veneer depends on what you want to cover on the La Scala.  Cost varies greatly with how exotic you want to go.  Nice Walnut isn't that expensive.  I love Cherry!  With mine, I hope to just cover the sides and the top.  I'm going to leave the front and back black because I like the look and also so I don't have to mess with fitting the dog house opening.  I would go with  2 sheets of 4 x 8 paper backed veneer with the grain running long ways so the grain will go up the side, across the top and down the other side.  This is a bit close on the length but I cut the pieces just a little bit long so I can trim so that the grain flows nicely from one section to the next.  You will want to sand down to raw wood.  Level any depressions with fill (I used Bondo).  I liked working with Heat Lock glue.  You might experiment with a smaller project just to get the hang of it.  I think Heresy's were a nice first project and only took one sheet of veneer.

 

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On 6/27/2019 at 2:12 PM, Heritage_Head said:

4. Im a bit confused on the edges (where two sides of veneer meet). 

Cut panels first ... say +1 inch. Glue side panels, then top ... align the pattern in the veneer.  You'll be fine; it is fairly easy :D  Below is a pic of my sub I did in Walnut ... OK; LaScalas are a bit harder :( 

IMG_2092.JPG

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I used contact cement and a roller on the cabinets and veneer on the heresy speakers I just refinished -- it probably took me about 2 hours to venneer both speakers once the underlying peeling veneer was removed and all irregularities were filled in. Much easier to do than I thought it would be. I used a very inexpensive red oak solid wood veneer and edging of the same tile except the edging was iron on, Matches up quite nicely with my existing Oak Forte 1saIMG_0716.thumb.jpg.8c32285c7ccedf33937ff1387e1ff6a6.jpg

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I would use Better Bond Heat-Lock™ Veneer Glue. It comes in a dark and light color, depending on the veneer you choose. You coat the speaker and the veneer using a rubber roller. Nice uniform even coats and let it dry. Place the pieces together and then use an iron to reheat the glue and they stick together. You can cut the veneer a little over size and trim after it is on using a sharp carpet blade, veneer saw or flush trim bit in a router. I personally cut it to fit because I can align perfect before I glue the pieces together.  Here are a couple of examples of speakers I have built and veneered.

 

http://wardsweb.org/audio/KlipschReplica/

 

http://wardsweb.org/audio/Widgets/

 

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9 minutes ago, Wardsweb said:

I would use Better Bond Heat-Lock™ Veneer Glue. It comes in a dark and light color, depending on the veneer you choose. You coat the speaker and the veneer using a rubber roller. Nice uniform even coats and let it dry. Place the pieces together and then use an iron to reheat the glue and they stick together. You can cut the veneer a little over size and trim after it is on using a sharp carpet blade, veneer saw or flush trim bit in a router. I personally cut it to fit because I can align perfect before I glue the pieces together.  Here are a couple of examples of speakers I have built and veneered.

 

http://wardsweb.org/audio/KlipschReplica/

 

http://wardsweb.org/audio/Widgets/

 

Ward,

   I think that veneer you used used is too much. Such depth. 

  For edges, I have put blue painters tape on the surface to sand the adjoining surface even. Always trimmed a little long. 

  I used 303 or something spray adhesive. The iron on looks better.

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23 hours ago, muel said:

Joe is helpful and had decent prices

https://www.joewoodworker.com/

 

How much veneer depends on what you want to cover on the La Scala.  Cost varies greatly with how exotic you want to go.  Nice Walnut isn't that expensive.  I love Cherry!  With mine, I hope to just cover the sides and the top.  I'm going to leave the front and back black because I like the look and also so I don't have to mess with fitting the dog house opening.  I would go with  2 sheets of 4 x 8 paper backed veneer with the grain running long ways so the grain will go up the side, across the top and down the other side.  This is a bit close on the length but I cut the pieces just a little bit long so I can trim so that the grain flows nicely from one section to the next.  You will want to sand down to raw wood.  Level any depressions with fill (I used Bondo).  I liked working with Heat Lock glue.  You might experiment with a smaller project just to get the hang of it.  I think Heresy's were a nice first project and only took one sheet of veneer.

 

The dog house has me stumped. I have no clue how to get in there and make it look perfect. Pre assembled would be the time to do it for sure. I thought about leaving them as they are and trying to go with something that would match really well on the sides, and top.

 

Any ideas?

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On 6/29/2019 at 4:37 PM, Heritage_Head said:

Any ideas?

 

Two pieces of heavy paper, each sized to reach just beyond the front and back vertical edges, and somewhat taller than half the height.  Lay one in flat on the surface with its upper edge tight to the upper corner/edge.  If you need to scribe a line along that upper edge because the wood panels don't match in a straight line, leaving gaps, then do so and trim the paper to match the needed profile, then tape the paper in place.  Do similarly on the bottom.

 

If there's an intersection of surfaces at the rear of the panel which needs similar fitting, then use four pieces of paper.

 

Securely fasten the pieces of paper together while in place and remove them as one piece.  You now have a custom template.

 

I'd leave the edges at the nose of the doghouse hang proud to trim in place, but you could include that edge as well on the template if you're careful enough.

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23 minutes ago, glens said:

 

Two pieces of heavy paper, each sized to reach just beyond the front and back vertical edges, and somewhat taller than half the height.  Lay one in flat on the surface with its upper edge tight to the upper corner/edge.  If you need to scribe a line along that upper edge because the wood panels don't match in a straight line, leaving gaps, then do so and trim the paper to match the needed profile, then tape the paper in place.  Do similarly on the bottom.

 

If there's an intersection of surfaces at the rear of the panel which needs similar fitting, then use four pieces of paper.

 

Securely fasten the pieces of paper together while in place and remove them as one piece.  You now have a custom template.

 

I'd leave the edges at the nose of the doghouse hang proud to trim in place, but you could include that edge as well on the template if you're careful enough.

Templates! That is a great idea sir. I was starting to think about not doing it (dog house seemed like a deal breaker). But after reading this I think I can do it. 

 

Thanks Glen

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You're welcome.

 

I'd glue the pieces together in the overlapping flaps as opposed to trying to tape them together (too much wiggle with tape).  I'd imagine glue stick (like a large chapstick) that they use in elementary school would work admirably.

 

You can probably get too heavy with the paper, but a little too heavy might be better than a little too light.  Nothing worse than a template with a flexible edge, so to speak.

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Oh, and throw away (or relegate for other use) your blades often.  Sharper is better.

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On 7/1/2019 at 9:28 AM, glens said:

You're welcome.

 

I'd glue the pieces together in the overlapping flaps as opposed to trying to tape them together (too much wiggle with tape).  I'd imagine glue stick (like a large chapstick) that they use in elementary school would work admirably.

 

You can probably get too heavy with the paper, but a little too heavy might be better than a little too light.  Nothing worse than a template with a flexible edge, so to speak.

 

On 7/1/2019 at 9:35 AM, glens said:

Oh, and throw away (or relegate for other use) your blades often.  Sharper is better.

Great tips 👍

 

Im wondering how far in you would go? 

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