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Heat Shrink


fini

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That's right, HEAT shrink. Not "cold river" shrinkage. That has been discussed to death.

I'm upgrading/reviving/restoring my Thorens TT, and in typical fini style, I am researching it to death. I'm to the point where even I am sick of my questions. Thankfully, this one's easy.

What's the best way to shrink heat shrink, without 1.) burning cables or the house, 2.) exotic heat gun apparatti, and 3.) making it look less than "professional?" These techniques, which y'all will so graciously describe, will be used in the construction of both the line and power cordage.

Oh, and please keep it clean. [Y][:o]

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fini,

If you get some low temp heat shrink, you can very likely use a hair dryer. I use a heat gun set on low, and that has always worked well. Are you covering connections/splices or longer lengths? Most heat shrink is rather stiff once it shrinks.

Bruce

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Well, I got a variety of sizes of 2:1 heat shrink. A fellow at Radio Shack said he just uses his soldering iron, carefully rubbed all around. It seemed to work very well. The tonearm cords I made look pretty good, with Techflex and all.

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I've had some really bad heat shrink from Radio Shack. I usually get mine from a local electronics supply house here in town (yup, we have one and they are really nice folks). Most of what I get is polyolefin tubing, which works well for what I use it on. I have a bunch of the clear that I got to put on connectors, so I could have labels underneath. I print our my info on a laser printer, use a glue stick to put it on the connector and then put the clear hs over it. Still readable and stays put. It is cheaper than buying a labeler just for wiring and cables.

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I got low on shrink tube once. All I had left was some that was too small in diameter. I cut a piece to the length I needed, slid it unto some fine needle nose pliers, and spread the pliers out stretching the tubing to a larger diameter. Stretch, release, stretch some more, release etc ... until you get it to the size diameter needed. Stretch too much too quickly and it will split. I then placed the stretched tubing over the wire and it shrank back to its normal size shorty after. You don't have a lot of time before it shrinks back to its normal size diameter, so you have to work quickly. Then all I had to do was put just a little bit of hair drier heat to it to get it to shrink some for that good tight fit. Do it all the time now. This can be good for places where you don't want a lot of heat placed. Now hand me my needle nose shrink tube stretcher.

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I've used lighters and a steam iron (without the steam, of course) and got lumpy results and burned fingers with both methods. Finally, I spotted a heat gun on sale and got it. Much better! A tidy and safe job, plus the gun is handy for other things, like warming a window-frame so draft-stop tape will adhere in cold weather, to name just one.

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PE has HST on sale in their current flyer. Just buy a bunch so you have every size in every color available. Ok- at least black and red. I use red for my speaker cables to indicate the RIGHT one (or the positive lead) . Also get dual bananas in same color code.

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PE has HST on sale in their current flyer. Just buy a bunch so you have every size in every color available. Ok- at least black and red. I use red for my speaker cables to indicate the RIGHT one (or the positive lead) . Also get dual bananas in same color code.

Michael, I can't find the sale, searching PE's latest online flyer. Can you provide more info?

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I vote for heat gun. Got to get one myself.

Not to start rumors... but a bit of lore... I was once told that some of the HST would burn (or actually ignite) more readilly than others.

This was attributed loosely to the finish (glossy vs satin). I do not know if that is currently the case, or a specific manufacturer was involved.

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I've never experienced flaming heat-shrink in my 20 plus years of using it. Sounds like fun though. BTW I love the fact that an issue like HS can go on for at least a couple of pages. I use a heat gun at work, and a hair dryer at home.

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  • 5 weeks later...

You MIGHT have luck with OTHER methods, but the heat gun is the only way "I KNOW" that "I CAN" get good consistent results. The (marine grade?) shrink wrap that has the inner lining coated with adhesive holds up MUCH better if the connection takes much abuse. Not the cheapest solution, but probably the best.

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