jason str

What is the amperage rating of the amp ? Nothing wrong with leaving it on besides an increase of your electric bill & having to clean the fan more often if its equiped with one.

Primer will hide bondo patches better than a coat of Duratex alone allowing a better looking finish without having to apply 2 coats. Primer will also show defects in surface that still need attention before you topcoat. Primer is cheap why not use it, its made to adhere your topcoat to surface material.

I remember, you bought the Chorus II's with the bucking magnets. Hope they are serving you well.

Black tinted primer works good as a base for Duratex.

Simply Stereo is where i go also. Its nice to be able to A/B different speakers with the touch of a button + they carry a nice selection of Klipsch products among other things. In fact i purchased my current pair of Chorus II's from them back when they were still available. I was looking for a preamp there but the selection was thin, i ended up picking up a used NAD from C-list and am very happy with it.

I auditioned the Klipsch Heratige lineup not too long ago, i thought the Cornwall III sounded better than any other Cornwall i ever heard. Once again i thought the La Scala with a good subwoofer sounded much better than the Klipschorn. The Klipschorn midbass is missing and sounds off where the La Scala shines in comparison.

Sony's ES products are very good but you got to pay the premium.

Woofer specs say 89dB woofer and dueling voice coils. Probably not a winner. Good parts speaker if everything works.

I would steer clear on the Sub-12 unless you plan on crossing it over near 35 or 40 Hz. It gets pretty muddy above those frequencies.

Try to curb your excitement here but i got socks, underwear & gloves

I'm not sure i understand the design, wouldn't adding a passive in a horn cause cancellation issues ?

At 31" minimum width its just a matter of if it fits through the door or around that bend. Good idea for klipsch to design a horn sub, it will keep distortion at a minimum

As long as the horn path and cabinet bracing is the same i see no reason it would sound different.

If you plan on soundproofing the ceiling can lights may not be the best idea + they tend to rattle.

Looks like a fun project. Keep us posted on the progress.

Never seen this before. Its bigger than 2 wide THT's. Less output than one though according to the specs. 12 ohms, better get a big amp too. Looks good though. Link

Wood strips easily, the less screws removed the less chance there is in having to repair a screwhole in the wood. I would only remove the motorboard if absolutely needed myself but the choice is yours, either way will work.

Looking into reconing local. Got a few of questions: 1. Based on the issues I have tried to describe, are you certain (or relatively certain) reconing will fix the issue? I know it is impossible to tell without hearing the issues for yourselves, I just don't want to spend the money on reconing (especially both woofers) if there isn't, say, a better than 90% chance that will fix the issue. Reconing should cure the problem. 2. What is a decent market price for a recone? I don't have to have the deal of the century price, I would just like to know an reasonable amount so I konw if someone is trying to rip me off! Prices will vary, get more than one estimate. 3. Any forum members in or around the Tampa ever use Speaker Exchange in Tampa? Looks like they have been around a long time, and they a very close to me location wise. Cant help you there, maybe somebody local will chime in. Again, thanks for all the help guys! Good luck.

Great price, these should go quickly.

I recall the same comment, but didn't comment at the time because I agreed with the context. The Table Tuba is a good for music while the THT is also good for movies (in addition to music). The Table Tuba just doesn't go low enough for movies. Admittedly, the THT drops like a rock below 20 Hz and some people are not satisfied with that as well. The lil wrecker is interesting as well, and the Cinema F20. Danley DTS-10 is good for music, movies, and to simulate earthquakes in your house or vibrate things at the other end of the house. LOL. Otherwise you can go to the AVS forum and build the HousWrecker or the LilWrecker, both of which were inspired by the DTS-10. The nice thing about the F-20 and the Tubas is that they are NOT tapped horns. They won't go as low, but go higher, like 100 Hz. instead of 60 or 70 Hz. for the tapped horns. That being said, the 24" THT is terrific. I own one of those too. It's great for music and movies.......VERY efficient, but won'd go as low as spuds, which are less efficient. Trade offs are alive and well. Efficient is right, it does not take much power to get the house rockin. When i recommend a 50-100 watt amp i get strange looks. Most will never use 25 watts unless destroying the house is the plan.

Have them reconed, you could do one but i would do both at one time if they were mine. Look local first then branch out, shipping is expensive and can be hazardous to your valuables if not packed properly. I know Parts Express does reconing if all else fails.

Crazy design, glad that did not catch on.

4 screws 2 wires Get to the driver with a long screwdriver through the open back in the top section of the cabinet.

Buy American

The LAB 12 is a very rugged woofer at 400W/800W Program. I'm confident of the 95 db/w efficiency of the Tapped Horn, which is similar to a Danley DTS-20 (for less than $300). I modeled a JBL 4 ohm car woofer that can be had for about $80, so my coffee table sub could be built for less than $200, representing the best price/performance I know of for subwoofage. Back to your question......if we take a 500 Watt amplifier and convert to DBwatts, we get about 27 DBw. adding this to 95 db/W @ 1 Meter, we should be able to get 122 db out of it. When I had it corner loaded in my "artist loft," it had a 45 foot room to fire into, so the 1/2 wave propagation went pretty darn low. With the best sub bass Blue Rays, it shook to floor, the couch, and your pant leg. One could build 4 of these for $800 (4 drivers plus lumber) in the middle of 4 walls using the affordable JBL driver (http://www.jbl.com/EN-EU/Products/Pages/ProductDetails.aspx?PID=GTO1214 and absolutely kill any direct radiator subwoofage at 2-4X the price. But, with enough cash, you could make direct radiator subs work too, but I'm a best bang for buck audiophile and I'm not alone. That driver has cone to surround seperation issues, i would choose another model. If i recall correctly the Infinity driver with similar specs has the same problem.