pzannucci

Easy 130+ degrees in the attic in TX during the summers. I hope he has foam in the rafters and roof line otherwise alert us if he ever tries to sell the speakers :-)

Exactly.

It seems to be for resonance control and to provide more stability for the top of the k-horn for when you put the 30lb planters (doesn't flex) with water so you can wreck the beautiful tops of the k-horns finished in nice veneer. DON'T DO IT if yours are still in perfect shape!!!! Due to the large area, it seems that you can hear the woody sound of a number of resonances with certain types of music. This brace/support likely tames the top at least while lending some support. My opinion anyway.

Don't worry, divorce papers are coming. Since this will become an addiction, it is just a matter of time.

I had about 5 pairs of K-horns and a pair of La Scalas. The thing I disliked the most was the mid to tweeter crossover. Every time I would watch concert videos, when clapping would start the crossover was very apparent. Maybe my ears were more prone to that but far from seamless otherwise a lot of folks wouldn't be multi-amping their k-horns with delays. The K-400 driver is just too far away from the tweeter. I am happy though that you said the Palladium do sound very good in comparison helps though since the Palladium speakers are very good looking and would be great for many decors. I have to just dig deep which I have a hard time doing without hearing.

Interesting information about the k-55 vs Palladium. If you think the k-55 on a k-400/k-401 horn sounds better than the Palladium mids, you probably saved me a bunch of money since I can't find a place locally to listen to them and would need to purchase unheard. The horns in the RF series always had a lower frequency sibilance (no better way to explain it), that just wasn't right I think due to the throat on the horn. I think the RP series horn cleans that stuff up, at least in my little RP-160m's. The Heritage series have the mid/tweeter crossover that is usually identifiable and the larger horns have their own problems. As for the RF-7 vs Forte (II), Forte II in the right room is a very good speaker and SO factor is quite reasonable. That is the speaker Klipsch should have brought back.

Not touching the last entry.... This wasn't an ad, it was a review. People with a lot more money than many of us have in the bank, have the right to buy audio jewelry. There are a number of $100K speakers or components that don't sound better than many Klipsch. The technology can be impressive but in the end, not that impressive. But again, you are allowed, super polished silver or platinum. One of the two you can brag about more and get a little more out of.

That old rope cable is cool. I know it comes up on Ebay a lot. There was a guy here a while back who was making speaker cable from CAT5 network cable. He shielded it and put ends on it. Where did that guy ever go? Make them yourself if you use Cat-5 plenum. Very easy just time consuming and wears out your fingers so wear gloves.

There is ALWAYS a compromise involved, period. To each his own where that lies however. Absolutely. They key is to hit a particular price point with acceptable trade offs. Integration is one of my larger evils.

If you don't mind speakers that can be very screechy in an under damped room or have a lot of acoustic treatments and don't mind not having any low bass, La Scalas are good. RF-7 II would be the other option and provide smoother sound though maybe not as fast. Depends on how you define low bass. I wouldn't ask either speaker to do what I expect from a good sub. I played a funky Fred Wesley track though a single La Scala and found it one of the most musical bass lines I'd ever heard. that has less to do with low frequency and more to do with the roundness, the fullness of the bass notes. If you think the Classic RF-7 or RF-7 is as good or better musically, please do let me know. Anything under where the La Scala can do, maybe 60hz. La Scala has punchy bass for what it does but not low enough to load a room. I myself believe in a fully integrated full range speaker where ever possible. External subs don't typically integrate as a whole as well as a design that is full range. This full range can be a powered bass section which is adjustable but if the crossover has been designed to mesh with the mid-bass/mids, the sound is much more together in my opinion. Shouldn't need a good sub 99.9% of the time... but that's just me. I personally get annoyed when companies try to sell you on a big speaker for big bucks but then - OH you need to get a good sub.....bunk As for your RF-7 vs RF-7 II question, 800 is good though pushing the horn down lower and providing less mids through 2-10s where it is muddled at the crossover point unless in a 2.5 way would push me to the IIs.

B&W seem to have a hot spot in the upper mid-treble. I have verified the same through measurements on a number of their designs. I have never warmed up to them as that hump made vocals sound less real but I guess Klipsch can be accused of the same thing. Since Klipsch are much simpler designs, much easier to tweak and get a lot more mileage out of. The higher efficiency lends much that can be done in the crossover where when you are using a lower efficiency speaker, when you start smoothing some of the rough edges, you take even more away from the efficiency.

Addictions are hard to shake until you run out of money or credit, in most cases.

I will say the Omnimic is good for when you see what your frequency sweep looks like then want to delve farther, particularly if you need to fix a problem. Also Woofer Tester is great for doing the proper sweep to tweak the crossover. Yes they cost but for basics and someone doing home built speakers, worth it.

Well it is interesting they talk up the crossovers but don't show a picture of them.

Trying to understand it.... Damping factor is a ratio of amp impedance to speaker impedance (simplified) and not dbs. Damping factor is the function that allows a speaker to follow the input. Lower damping factor usually means the bass has less control. Deang produced some tweaks to the original RF-7 crossover to minimize ringing (typical in metal drivers). I don't think Klipsch ever did an update to accept that as part of their work. If you don't mind speakers that can be very screechy in an under damped room or have a lot of acoustic treatments and don't mind not having any low bass, La Scalas are good. RF-7 II would be the other option and provide smoother sound though maybe not as fast.

If the horns are mounted on the front, it's a CII - k79 type tweeter and not k-77 rear mounted. Can't rear mount because the back doesn't come off. Simple picture of the front would show.

It also depends on where you say you want to put it. In the horn or in the enclosure that the woofer is screwed into. No on both counts though you may like it in the woofer cavity so no harm in trying though putting something like 1" foam in the horn would not be a good idea.

Depends on the filter and also if you are adding something like an external EQ to get the subsonic filter. I did notice in my old Yamaha integrated (CA-800) that even with the 20hz low filter on, it did seem to roll off somewhat earlier unless it was my imagination? Either way it will depend on when the filter cuts in and what speakers you are using along with if you have another component in the chain.

Thanks for sharing. The horn looks a little small :-)

Hopefully KLF-30s are broken in by now. Your right I was thinking about the neighbors. Ah, KLF-30s don't get loud

The issue is not how low the RF 7s can go but how the mid and bass frequencies reference to the highs. A typical speaker will have the highs slowly trailing off by a few db after about 3 or 4k. This deviation from flat will get even larger as you move off axis. If you look at the plots, even at 30degrees off the RF7 has substantial energy in the area where the ear is most sensitive, especially in reference to the mids. If you add that together with the bass impedance requiring a fair amount of current and the high impedance in that same hot range (matters more with tubes), some folks would definitely say the RF7 is hot in the highs and would shy away. Others love that sound. So this isn't really about lack of bass. Big heavy carpet, couches, and wall treatments and those highs become detail.

When you reference the mid to highs, the speaker will sound top loaded. Likely the Mac being tubed has the frequency response fluctuating with the impedance also. If the top end was tapered down a bit and the speaker was broken in, things would probably change quite a bit. Break in occurs, top end tailing off slightly instead of raising isn't going to happen without tweaks. Face it that most speakers today rely on people having electronics in a receiver to balance and flatten the sound and subwoofers to fill in the bottom. This all makes things cheaper and better for marketing / bottom line. That all works if you aren't looking for 2 channel. When doing 2 channel, start digging deep in your pockets if you are going to use an amp and just two speakers.

Sorry hit wrong button

Yes, a little help. This is like saying I have a car for sale. Is it a Kia Rio or BMW 750. Also list where you are located. Most folks don't like to ship speakers because they weigh too much. Too many scams on the internet. Like: "Please send me an email so I can collect them and SPAM you", especially members that just come on the board to "sell" or "buy" something. The more info you can provide, the more legitimate your add.appears. This will help your likelihood of sale. Good Luck.

If your cabinets don't have any problems then don't touch them unless you just want to pour some thinned glue around the gap between the sides and the front and back panel. You could also use a PL construction adhesive and seal and fill all the corners between the front and rear panels to the sides, from the inside of the cabinet. A urethane based construction adhesive will go a long way to holding things together if you have no problems currently.