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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. I agree. I can often hear distortion in 256k tracks riding my motorcycle. Even 320k destroys the stereo image, re: "Blackwater" by The Doobies.
  2. I rarely use or recommend stands. Many speakers need the boundary reinforcement of the floor and walls. And really should be designed for it so they will sound right in a real room. H IVs have a better squawker and crossover than the HIIIs. They also (just barely) don't need a subwoofer(s), saving you a bundle. I, too, am powerfully impressed with FIIIs. If I could fit them in, they'd be my choice. But, in the end, I chose H IVs for my instrument room largely because of size. I love them more each time I sit and listen. The port on the rear of an H IV is identical in function to the passive radiator on the rear of the FIII. To accept one and not the other is odd. Both will need several inches of distance off the rear wall. And both vibrate out of phase with the woofer, but putting the resonant wave on the back of the cabinet keeps the pressure pulses in phase with the woofer. What's not to like?
  3. Package them so nothing can contact the cone or suspension. Then, short the terminals so the voice coil and magnet act like a motor and resist motion when the shipping monkey tosses them into the truck.
  4. This can be a complicated subject if you try to be too analytical. I would not put a capacitor in a Heresy or Forte that I wouldn't put in a Belle Klipsch or Klipschorn. I like the sound of film and foil caps a schooch better than metalized.
  5. Yes, but..... I did it with a 500 hz 2-way passive crossover and my La Scalas and a 902 (that has better HF output). Khorns will not quite get to 500 hz and the 802/902 driver needs a very steep crossover to safely run at 500 hz. 12 dB/Oct was not enough. AND, the sound was not substantially different. While the Altec gear is excellent, especially in the middle, so is the K-55/K-400. I think the Altec HF was the 2-way system Mr. Paul referenced in his AES paper on the La Scalas.
  6. I've had speakers that went both ways. Putting Holand Musicaps in my La Scalas cleaned up a lot of sounds and did not make them too bright. I had an H700 from 1968 that did not need new caps. If your La Scalas sound big and forward, out in the room, not recessed or distant, the caps were good enough.
  7. At least he earned you! While I agree with Dean, if the electrolytics are parallel to the vwoofer, I don't use them. They need to be "reformed" after the sit and become delinquent.
  8. A light application of Elmer's and at most a small patch of cigarette paper is Al you need for that repair. OTOH, it probably isn't hurting anything as is.
  9. Bob's your uncle!!! Spend your money on new tubes and a tune-up/refurbishment of what you have.
  10. Have you built your room? If not, consider non-parallel walls. i built the room in the sketch in my basement in a previous house and the results were just excellent. Berber carpet on the floor and heavy, insulated curtains behind my La Scalas for a "dead" front wall. That end of the basement became a bedroom and Listening Room with a 100 degree wall between them. And no, the X was not allowed to speak in there. 😉 If you have to build false walls to get one or two walls angled, you can use that space for equipment and unclutter the room, especially between the speakers.
  11. Of those 2, Luxman. But, consider old Yamaha CR-x00, -x10 and -x20, Marantz from the 70s, 22xx, and Technics SA- with discrete output stages (500/50 watt and higher). Kenwood and Sansui made pretty nice gear, too, but I had Tuner/Integrateds by then, a KA-7100 and a KT-5500(?). I don't understand the nostalgia for Pioneer. It was junk in the '70s, carried by low end shops. Still looks like the Blose of electronics.
  12. Valentine 1 for sale. SN 1441641307. Not quite 3 years old. Excellent condition, comes with all boxes, manual and accessories, most never used. It was hardwired and used a mirror mount. $225 + $15 shipping.
  13. Sounds like a production change. The question (for E-V) is was it because of part availability/cost, or driver/sound quality. If you like the sound, replace in kind.
  14. Hi Chris, Why 1/4 wave and not 1/2 wave? The OEM drivers are rather flat from 200 to 2000 and then have a spikey plateau 6 dB above 200 to 2k band, from 3500 to 12k. I curved them out of the car. My first attempt with replacements has been good, but there is some oddness in tenor and Alto voices. I dont think they are fed any thing below ~300 Hz.
  15. Because it is part of a Blose audio system. The unknown, built-in EQ interferes with the test and dragging the gear out there to bypass the Blose, is not yet worth the effort.
  16. Perhaps a more practical answer is a Heresy I with a crossover modified to be as similar as practical to the Type AAs in your La Scalas. That is also the center I use, mounted above the TV. It often fools my GF into thinking the TV speakers are on.
  17. What does placing speakers in the corner of a car dash and bouncing the sound off the windshield do to frequency response? How can I calculate/estimate/guestimate the effect?
  18. I covered the edge plys with 3/4" x 3/4" cherry and stained to match. Makes a nice frame for the upper grille. i suggest lining the opening for the squawker horn with 3/4" heavy felt.
  19. I'll bet your Cornwalls are 1981s. If '82, they would be early '82. That tweeter is post '79. A K-55-V is generally pre-'82, though that was the transition year.
  20. Both, on different walls near mid-wall, and/or add another 15" sub to the HT system, again with at least 2, placed near mid-wall.
  21. If you know the EQ applied by the built-in amp (or can test to find out), replicate it with an outboard amp. If not, fix the one you have. After it's fixed, you'd be able to sell and replace it.
  22. That looks line a Klipsch Professional SN. I'm gonna guess one that low is from 1977-ish. Component list will tighten the age.
  23. E-V once told me the K-55-M was a modified version of an "1824, or 1828, or something like that". So, I think you have 2 -Ms with one missing sticker. The Type AL crossover is appropriate for the -Ms, but it is a miserable sounding thing. It will need to be replaced, or converted. The Type AL-3 crossover is a pretty good one; keep it. Use the mismatches to negotiate the price down. Though I would find and buy a Type AL-3 (even try 1-800-KLIPSCH), converting a Type AL to a -3 doesn't look hard. The 13 uF squawker cap implies a T2A autoformer could substitute for a T4A. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/113804-klipsch-crossovers/
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