moray james

I would suggest you purchase a matching set of four new woofers from Klipsch when available and sell off your existing woofers then. This is the only way you can insure matching drivers all around.Your old woofers will sell fast and match with those out in the market place which need replacements.

unless you can find an identical physical match for your existing piece (exact same ID) I suggest you purchase a matching pair. These adapters come in an assortment of size variations for exit ID..

a buddy used to wind complex fine gage coils and also had some cap winding equipment, he spent a fair amount of time picking the brains of guys who designed and sold winding equipment to find out what he needed to know so he could build his own machine. he is a clever cookie with a sharp mind and has designed and built or modified much of his own equipment.

please don't shout. a flat wind is not as good as a round wind and a round wound cap is not as good as a stacked construction. it is what it is. choose and use what ever you like.

sure see the pictures. Flat wound are designed to minimize real estate on a board. When winding a flat wound cap it is virtually impossible to maintain constant film and or foil tension, with a round wound it is easy to maintain constant wind tension. Constant tension is much preferred. Want an even better cap? Stacked film or stacked foil and film are about as good as it can get see picture. Hope this helps you.

I had two sets of H3 and both had horrible dry joints all over the cabinets. They were treated to a couple of thinned applications of white PVA wood glue to all the seams prior to being fitted with white oak on all the cabinet seams along with a full matrix they are rigid now and make no noise.

found some of the numbers (two out of three) thanks to Wiki sure you can find those copies now. check out the patent list. Firearm vibration control. US patent 2302699. Klipsch, P.W., 11/14/1942.[14] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paul_Wilbur_Klipsch#Patents

yeah but today you can pretend to be a woman in Biden's army and they will supply you with falsies.

did you ever try using the Titanium diaphragm in your K79? Another question is how many hours of play do the new tweeters have on them? They do take time to settle in and to smooth out.

this was standard practice if a veneer was not up to the desired level they would be painted black many woods can be found under black paint. Here is a link to a forum thread regarding the K43 with input from a great forum member DJK (since passed away). I hope this helps and is of interest.

you might consider raising the CF4 up so that the centre of the horn is at your seated ear level. You can get a taste of this improvement by sitting on the floor taking your ears down closer to the tweeter horn. I prefer a WWT baffle layout over a WTW configuration. Hope this is of interest to you or to other thread readers.

The only one I could find was this one. somebody else give this a try. https://patents.google.com/patent/US2205982A/en?q=patents+p.w.+Klipsch&oq=patents+by+p.w.+Klipsch&page=1

do a search and request on HiFi Shark and get immediate notification of on line for sale posts, don't miss another opportunity.

if you get the chance and the price is right try a Buck blade made from CPM S30V. All American Bucks have Boss Heat Treatment the best heat treat man in the industry knows S30V inside and out and finishes with a cryo dip. Very nice S30V. I like the Buck/Boss treated S30V better than Spydercos S30V. While we are on Spyderco if you can find any of their knives in Maxamet try one, you will need diamond stones (DMT diamond stones are very good value). Maxamet is almost as hard as Tungsten but sharpens much easier and is much tougher it is my favorite steel my next fav is the Japanese ZDP189 harder than a file about the same level of sharpening difficulty as S30V not as tough as S30V but much harder with longer edge retention and virtually impossible to stain a really fine knife. I use an Endura in ZDP189 for most all of my kitchen prep every day, love the steel.

I can tell you that two twelve inch woofers will push approximately the same amount of air as 1 1/2 fifteen inch woofers. Dual 12" will usually cross a little lower than dual 10's do so they should sound close but I would expect a bit more body to the sound.Another good reason for selecting the smallest speaker which will provide you with your desired output levels and then leave the bottom end to multiple subs. My main speakers have a 3.25" woofer cone with a 1.5" tweeter in the middle. You would be shocked by how low and how loud they can play. Stage and image is excellent. It takes a fair amount of work to make a speaker this small be able to do what it does but it can be achieved (I am in a 14x30 ft. room with a kitchen and a hall off the main room volume).

if you are going to do something take your time give it your all and do your best!

I wonder when the air in those Chorus vents was last changed (if ever)? It looks to be original and has to be stale and definitely flat by now.

no worries I understand I just wanted readers to understand the ease and value of doing this to their speakers but yes I understand also lots of owners either don't want to drill holes or do anything to their speakers. That's just the way it is.

Simply Speakers are authorized to sell Klipsch Factory Parts https://www.simplyspeakers.com/ Michael Crites sells custom made replacement parts (Michael's dad Bob just passed away) https://critesspeakers.com/klipsch_tweeters.html I have replaced about nine sets of ti tweeter diaphragms and about 5 sets of ti mid diaphragms (the ti mid is only available from Klipsch via Simply Speakers). In all the tweeter ti sets I had two Klipsch ti tweeter diaphragms go bad but I have had no Crites parts go bad. I prefer the build of the Crites part Bob was a real stickler for quality. Just so you know. Bob was working on finding a supplier for the Klipsch ti mid diaphragm but could not find one that was good enough. He could have sold what ever was available but he would not. So don't let anyone suggest to you that the Crites ti tweeter is a cheap clone or copy it is (to me) the best option available.

I see very few excuses for not installing a standard female 1/4-20 threaded insert. Even if you don't have a hand drill and set of drills most people will know someone who does and those would even be happy to visit and drill the holes for them. This is just drilling eight holes and installing the self tapping inserts. One of the few modifications which will increase the re sale value of the loudspeakers.

Tarheel TJ would you comment on your impressions when you got your four large diffusors installed? They were obviously a lot of work. They do look very nice and make a very nice visual statement, that said sonically were they worth the effort in your opinion?

Thanks for the reminder. Threaded inserts can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace, Home Hardware etc. all over they are cheap and simple to install. When you install them put a thin layer of white wood glue on the insert and on the side wall of the hole with a toothpick as this greatly increases the strength of the insert in the hole, the glue wicks into the wood and strengthens it and it also sticks to the metal insert (not as well as say an epoxy but epoxy does not wick into the wood as well as white glue does). Get some inserts and do it right because inserts offer a substantial increase in energy transfer compared to a spike which is simply screwed into the base of the cabinet, you won't regret installing them.

are you bridging the two stereo amps or are you vertically biamping? (biamping is the way to go with a pair of stereo block amplifiers especially when they are matched twins).

I could but I have had failure problems with two klipsch ti tweeter diaphragms and I never have had one problem with Bob's (rest his soul), so I am sticking to what worked best. That said all the Klipsch ti mid diaphragms I have used have worked perfectly and still work perfectly.