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I'm not aware of any PC with native analog-to-digital conversion capabilities. I think you need an ADC box or sound card of some sort.

Yes, for about $30 you can get a Behringer UCA202, UFO202, or UCA222 that takes line-level (or phono-level in the case of the UFO202), digitizes it 48/16, and sends it out over USB (or optical UCA202 /UCA222). MACOS running Audacity sees this input stream and you are golden.

I've been using a Bunn VP17 for almost 10 years now. It can brew a 64 oz pot through a commercial sized 12 cup basket of grounds in about 4 minutes, keeping the water hitting the grounds around 195-200 degrees the whole brew cycle. It's easy to work on and maintain - kind of like the La Scala of coffee makers. I even upgraded to the heavier duty Bunn tea thermostat that keeps the water inside the tank at a balmy 206 degrees. Combine this system with a nice burr grinder and you have something delicious to look forward to every morning.

Which Klipsch DAC are you referring to?

Yes, already invented. Bose WaveGuide. 😂

I can understand this. There are certainly huge benefits to taking your analog signal (from your nice Chord day or even TT), converting it back to digital, and applying DSP, convolution filters, active crossovers etc, before converting it back to analog again before it hits your ears. Do the benefits outweigh the downsides (cables, amps, cost, complexity...)? Probably. But for me, there is something strangely comforting about keeping my 2-channel music all-analog from my DAC (or TT) to my ears. (I've messed with filters in my streaming software before it gets to my DAC, but that's another thread.). Back to your original question, I would lean towards something from the new heritage series.

I like your idea of a powered wireless speaker like the sixes but smaller. Maybe the R-41PM? Stream your music via bluetooth. most TVs can also stream to bluetooth speakers. wife can play music from her phone... you would have to get power to them though which may not be easy since you area already wired for traditional speakers.

It depends on how into 2-channel you are versus home-theater, and do you want room EQ to apply to your 2-channel also (i.e. do you want your 2-channel digitized)? I'm not huge into HT - I'm mostly 2-channel - but I need to share the same speakers. HT technology changes weekly whereas 2-channel doesn't. In the end, I decided to go with the cheapest AVR from a major manufacturer with pre-outs that met my needs (actually a free 8-year old Yamaha AVR from my brother) and a high quality 2-channel pre-amp (McIntosh C-48) with home-theater bypass. Both are feeding the same amp and speakers. Just another option for you to consider.

I have the DSD download of this album from NativeDSD and it does not have that 2 second skip. They should send you a new file.

I've been using Bob's CT120's as a drop-in replacement for the K77's on my otherwise stock Lascala II's. They sound fantastic and have a nice even coverage pattern. On-axis response at one meter is about 1-3db hotter than the K77 from about 8Khz and up, which translates into less roll-off and extended highs at my listening position. I never disliked the K77s but the CT120s have a little extra sparkle starting right at the frequencies where middle-aged ears start to roll-off. I think this is why they are so popular with the old farts on this forum. K77=red, CT120=blue

For home theater, I had a Yamaha AVR for about 18 years and just replaced it with an 8-year old Yamaha AVR hand-me-down from my brother. (I do not use the amp sections on them.) I'm not huge into HT so my philosophy has been to get a decent Yamaha AVR with the features I need and pre-outs to feed my amp. No complaints at all with Yamaha AVRs. In general, HT technology changes so fast it is good to stick with a large player in this market with the resources to stay on top of it, rather than be an extension of the QA department for a boutique company.

Is the system dedicated for home-theater or is it also used for 2-channel listening?

I find that Neil Young sounds best with both A+B unselected...:-)

Roy Batty and Rutger Hauer both died in 2019...

Episode IV - Han shot first.

Welcome. I think you've done all the right steps first by trying to solve sound problems via speaker placement and room treatments before gently applying some DSP. I'm not sure what you use to feed/stream to your Hugo2 today but if you are serious about #5, I recommend taking a look at Room EQ Wizard (REW) software for your Mac (free) and an under-$100 UMIK-1 calibrated USB microphone. You can use this combo to create convolution filters (correction filters) that can be fed into various software streamers, Roon for example.

If you are using this device: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-optical-coaxial-digital-to-analog-converter-black/4226000.p?skuId=4226000 Then you need 2 cables (buy cable lengths to suit your needs.): 1) Toslink to Toslink optical cable to take the PCM stream from your TV to the Insignia: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11H38/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?pd_rd_i=B00L3KO3YU&pd_rd_w=7WBB8&pf_rd_p=46cdcfa7-b302-4268-b799-8f7d8cb5008b&pd_rd_wg=Iea7T&pf_rd_r=Z29CWAF39ZMJRZBPWHN6&pd_rd_r=0b64e169-6cbd-11e9-8bdd-799299fc1ec4&th=1 2) RCA stereo male to 3.5mm mini plug like the one I suggested above: https://www.amazon.com/10ft-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004Y6AEFC Don't use the RCA cable that came with the Insignia. Set your TV to PCM stereo-out. Flip the switch on the Insignia to optical audio-in. Connect the Insignia to power. Bob's your uncle.

can you tell me what brand/model your converter box is?

I wish your TV had bluetooth... I don't know what converter/dac you are using but it sounds like you need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/10ft-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004Y6AEFC

WinXP Pro is 17 years old. Microsoft stopped supporting it in 2014 and you're complaining about Pandora's app not working? Time to upgrade. BTW, Pandora works over any browser - did you try that instead of the app?

I have had a pair of H3's for 6 years now. 1) Nothing below ~50hz - you will need a sub that can blend in well. 2) They sound so good, you will want to buy more Klipsch speakers.

No complaints with Yamaha AVRs from me. I have an ancient AVR that I used to power some La Scala Its for a while before using its pre-out capabilities to add an external power amp. The RX-A1080 is a great unit that also has pre-outs should you choose to do the same down the road.

My only complaint with my Yamaha AVR is that it won't die - going on 18 years old now... My brother is giving me his 8 year old Yamaha AVR this weekend, so I can finally retire mine. That said, the RX-A880 gives you the option of full multi-channel pre-outs in case you decide to supplement with an external amp down the road. That's worth the extra dollars IMHO. Also, Yamaha usually announces their 2019 models in the next month or two, so if you can wait, prices on the 80 series should drop. Also, consider accessories4less for used gear.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

the pre-outs with splitters is probably the most intuitive way to do this. But if you don't have splitters handy, you can try a zone output. I'm not sure if your Rotel has a setting to tell zone-2 to follow/sync-with both the main zone's input and volume control - that's the wrinkle.