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I searched and did not find anyone with this issue. After a vacation where all of my equipment was unplugged from the wall, I return to have the LEDs on top and front flicker then stop working. I suspect a power supply issue as previously mentioned in posts, but am not savvy enough to replace it. Two year old unit out of warrant that now completely cuts out at random times using HDMI. Pops a bit with optical cable (that might be the TV settings). And I seek the wisdom of @KevinBif you've heard of this one. Also, I'm super curious - with all of the issues with Bar 48, what influenced you to purchase a Cinema 800???? I love (understatement) the brand also, but it seems that the Soundbar division isn't up to usual Klipsch quality standards. [I'm a newbie so the system won't let me message you directly]

New to the forums, figured now would be a good opportunity to say hi! I’m a long-time fan of Klipsch products, having started with a set of fantastic-sounding Promedia 2.1’s I bought about 15 years ago. That system has had its quirks, but I’m quite happy about just how repairable they’ve been. I was in the market to improve the sound quality from my entertainment unit, but given the size of my place and the fact I have a toddler running around, having a dedicated home theatre system wasn’t an option. To address this, I picked up a Bar 48 about a year and 8 months ago as I’m familiar with the quality of Klipsch products and knew it would produce quality sound. And produce quality sound it did… until it died. With the sound bar being 8 months out of warranty, I figured I could get it repaired. Turns out that’s not the case. Per the Klipsch support centre here in Canada, these sound bars aren’t deemed repairable. No parts available, no service manual, no schematics. Nothing. Basically, if it stops working there is literally nothing that the repair centre can do to fix it, and they advise you just buy a new one. Furthermore, the service centre told me that there’s a copious amount of glue used to hold everything together, so even if you feel inspired to take it upon your self to attempt a DIY repair, nothing will be accessible and you will cause more damage trying to fix it. Instead what I was offered was a possible trade-in credit on a new unit. I was told that I could send it in at my expense, and they would offer me a Cinema 600 for $699. To put that into perspective, retail pricing for the Cinema 600 when it goes on sale is $699, so they were offering me literally nothing for the sound bar I paid $700 for less than two years prior. Basically, I was told to pound sand. Again, I can’t stress enough that I’ve been a fan of Klipsch products, but the fact that the company made a failure-prone product unrepairable and is unwilling to try and help me out struck a chord with me. I’ve seen from multiple sources that Bar 48s not powering on is an extremely common failure mode, so hopefully this thread can help some people out by adding a ray of hope to their expensive sound bar that Klipsch says can't be fixed. So for starters, the Bar 48 is totally repairable. By removing the screws around the periphery of the back panel, the main PCB, power supply, and associated wires all slide out as a unit: The Canadian service centre mentioned that everything is glued together, and that simply is not the case. Yes, there is some hot glue on the connectors to prevent the connectors from separating if the unit is moved around or bumped, but this is a common sight with consumer electronics and can be easily removed by some careful prying away with a screwdriver. Through my testing, I found that the power supply on my unit had failed. The unit is an LPS-U101D2405L dual switching power supply, made by ETOP electronics in China. The PSU takes a 120VAC source and converts it to two separate 24VDC and 5VDC rails. The 24V rail appears to power the amplifier and speakers, while the 5V rail appears to power all the other electronics, including the control panel, LEDs on the front of the sound bar, and Bluetooth functionality. I found that when unloaded, the rails output 24V and 5V as they should, but once the Bar 48 PCB is connected to the 5V rail, output from the 5V rail drops to 2.7V. This is likely not enough voltage to power the main PCB, thus causing the no-power issue that many have experienced. I have reached out directly to ETOP (as an FYI this is not an easy thing to do!), and have confirmation that the power supply has failed. Per the spec sheet they sent me, operating voltage on the 5V rail should be 5V +/- 0.5V, so the 2.7V reading is well outside of spec, which was further confirmed by their engineering department. I’ve made arrangements to have a replacement power supply sent my way (with which to compare with my failed unit), so in the meantime I was going to try and diagnose exactly which component in the power supply failed. The goal here is to provide the Klipsch community with a low-cost option to fix your dead Bar 48s. As a disclaimer, I am not an electronics savant, but I am pretty handy with electronics and am extremely determined to fix this sound bar due to this awful customer service experience. Additionally, I was going to use this as an opportunity to learn more about power supply and voltage regulator design. So as mentioned earlier, when a load is applied to the 5V rail, output drops to 2.7V. I believe this might be related to a failed component in the 5V rail voltage regulator, which appears to have a couple of components that would be relatively easy to swap out. The first is an A12N65H MOSFET attached to a heatsink on the board. The MOSFET tested fine, but doesn’t appear to provide full continuity between the drain and source pins after the gate has been activated. Again, I’m not an electronics expert, so perhaps this is normal but I ordered a replacement MOSFET to install just in case. The second component I was going to look at was the LD7552BPS pulse-width modulation controller. I believe these are used for controlling voltage, with operating frequency set by a resistor connected to Pin #4. Maybe a resistor failed? I’m not sure! Having a second, replacement power supply handy will help me validate some of these things! The simple solution here would be to have offer a power supply replacement for these units that failed, but since those aren't available it looks like a DIY approach is the only option. Either way, stay tuned with my progress on this, as I will get my Bar 48 working again, despite Klipsch telling me there’s nothing that can be done.

New to the forum. Thought I'd start a thread for the new Cinema 600 Sound Bar

@Peter P. As per your request, I am responding with my decision. I thought long and hard about what you guys said above. I came to realize that without the ability to at least control the subwoofer, I would likely not be happy with it. The SVS really made me think about the value of the control and not having to climb behind my TV to adjust what little was adjustable on the Klipsch and other inexpensive subwoofers. It also made me think about the fact that I hadn't updated any of my audio equipment in 20+ years and it was probably time to do that. The final event that pushed me over the edge was the airing of the Billy Joel the 100th on the 14th. I was still without a decent sound system to enjoy it. So, not being a person who likes to buy used stuff in unknown condition without a warranty or support, and in consideration of all of your comments and a great video by the Obsessed Garage: SVS Subwoofers: Which Entry-Level Sub? (PB-1000 vs PB-2000 & SB-1000 vs SB-2000) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZTMv3cO6tQ). I decided on the SVS PB-1000. I have received it and set it up and I needed to talk to their support on an issue with that. I was very impressed by the sales person and then the support person who was available to help me at 7:45pm the night the subwoofer showed up. I now have a new dilemma. My current regular speakers are again 20+ year old tiny Optimus Bookshelf speakers from Radio Shack. Oddly enough, they are not terrible, but, obviously not anything close to the current state of the art. Due to space considerations, I was going to try to replace them with more up-to-date Bookshelf speakers and I spent a LOT of time researching them, including the ones suggested by the video above (PSB Alpha P5) and then I noticed that there were Tower speakers that came in at a similar cost to some of the better Bookshelf speakers. I originally had not considered those due to space constraints. My TV is in a corner and there isn't much room on either side, particularly on the left side which would overhang the fireplace. However, in looking at the prices and reviews, it seemed like there were only 2-3 speakers that were well reviewed, priced right, and were physically appealing to me. Polk Audio XT70 or XT60 Sony SSCS3 Klipsch (several, but they are so large I'm not sure they would work) I currently have a Pioneer VSX-D509S AV Receiver and I am not planning to replace that. I have also been looking at Bookshelf speakers (around $500/pair), but that is a really long list and I am wondering if I should consider Powered or only passive. The reason I have been thinking powered is for the same reason I picked the SVS Subwoofer and that is the ability to tune them if needed. Some I have considered: Passive ------- SVS Prime Bookshelf PSB Alpha P5 Polk Audio T15 Active ------ Kali Audio MM6 Kali Audio LP6v2 (discontinued ?) Audiodngine A5+ PreSonus Eris E5 BT Update (I started that text 2 weeks ago) I purchased the Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf speakers due to them having great reviews, but not being expensive. I also selected them due to the fact that the Tweeter, Woofer, and Base Port are all inline and the Dome Tweeter appears to be relatively omni directional. I also ordered a pair of the Polk Audio XT70 Towers in case the Elac's didn't do the job. I do like the the Elacs, but after visiting the Best Buy Magnolia store and listening to a pair of Martin Logan Shelf Speakers that were about $800/each, so, unfortunately I know how high the bar can be. But, like I said originally, I am not an audiophile, but I can tell the difference, I just don't want to invest the amount needed to get to that level. I am currently looking at the following reviewers on Youtube to try to get a better education of what matters, and what I can possibly do for the best bang for the buck: Obsessed Garage Cheap Audio Man Joe N Tell Erin's audio corner Hopefully all of the above can help another noob like me. Thanks again for all your help

This Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread has a lot of useful information in case you want to undertake a DIY project. If you find a repair shop, you may want to refer them to this thread.

I got my first pair of Klipsch's about 9 months ago and I love them. They are all wood HIPs, with rounded corners and a cherry wood finish with silver metal woofer grills. I've seen lots of photos of HIP's but none that look quite like these, they look like they'd be at home in a bar or a burlesque stage. I love them but obviously can't compare them to any other Heresy's as I've never owned any others. The serial #s are 3446 and 3447. Any info on the manufacture date and where they originally sold would be much appreciated. Thanks!

I doubled up last night @JohnJ. 😂 Bout 30 wimmen rolled in having a birthday party for one of them. Place was packed. Ya couldn't even get to the front bar so they had the back bar open. All kinds of food. Wound up w/a plate of ribs and about 25 amazing smoked devilled eggs. Figure that one out. Exactly, he's runnin on empty for sure. IF he'd cut Nils loose it would be a fantastic tour for sure imo. BTW @AndreG. that Di meolaio lp is great! 😂 Know you'll enjoy that!

I have the cinema 600 bought the board and did the swap. It powered right up which was great, BUT the sub now won't power down when the sound bar is turned off. ????

Anybody have a fix for the sound delay that happens when you fast forward a recording? Very annoying when the picture starts up after fast forwarding and it takes a couple of seconds for the sound to come out. Thanks

After my second BAR 48 died, Klipsch gave me a Cinema 600. It had just become available. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few months. I was then given a Cinema 800. Search these community forums for "Cinema 800" to learn more. Both the Cinema 800 & 1200 have reliability issues too but far fewer than the BAR 48 and the Cinema 600 do. Early firmware updates were a disaster but the latest ones are stable. You should be quite happy with your Cinema 800. I am. 🙂

Its super bowl day and I am bummed! I've had the Cinema 600 sound bar with sub woofer for a couple of years and have loved it until today. After mounting the bar from our TV display I've tried plugging it into multiple outlets and there is simply now power when trying to turn the sound bar on trying both the buttons on the bar and the remote it came from, I'm super upset this sound bar does not have many years of use and I paid a lot of money for it, I see there is a service USB port on the side where you can pair a sub woofer i've validated the power cord is correctly inserted and there is power on the outlet. Why would this happen? Is there a quick fix to this problem or am stuck buying a new sound bar?

I used Bar Keepers Friend to remove water stains. I treated the whole surface, not just the stained areas. Have you sanded any of it?

Good morning, I was wondering if someone can assist me please. I purchased a cinema Klipsch 600 in November of 2021 and the sound bar died on me approximately a month ago. I came across this forum online and I was very excited to see that there was a forum dedicated for klipsch. I followed the link and I have purchased the exact same power supply 24 volts 4 amps 5 volts 1 amp and follow your instructions down to the letter the green light comes on which does suggest power going to the power supply however the sound bar still is not booting up, I was wondering if someone may have an understanding as to why this is happening. Thank you guys so much.

In my Bar48 case if VDD and STB connect with +5V , It worked for a while and then lost power again.Can't power on again . so I study this post say you can disconnect STB no plug in +5V , keep it disconnect. It work great! my Bar 48 can work again.

I want to also add my voice to everyone here who has thanked Sixer for starting this thread, and to the Cinema 600 owners who joined in to include and clarify the experiences they had with our version of the soundbar. We purchased the Cinema 600 just over 3 years ago. Last month we had the exact same symptoms that have been described here, the audio getting a little static-y, followed by problems powering up and then the lights not coming on and then getting that one red light before the next time after that trying to turn it on and kaput... nothing. A quick internet search brought me to this thread, I read through it, and even though I have absolutely no electronics experience and am not a DIY'er at all, the postings in this thread gave me a clear enough vision and the confidence to tackle the task of retrieving a hardly-ever used set of gifted allen wrenches, disemboweling the sound bar and replacing that good-for-nothing ETOP power supply (although okay, it did make it through 3 years of not very heavy use). Like most here, I got the NOYITO replacement for $15 off Amazon (only 1 left in-stock the last time I saw about 5 days ago, must be a lot of us replacing Klipsch soundbar power supplies). Long story short, my replacement worked, my soundbar is back in business, I am bragging to everyone who listens about my newly acquired electronics skills, and I am grateful to all here who shared. I also did splurge and got an inexpensive multimeter/voltmeter. That came in handy to verify, before unplugging, snipping wires and removing the ETOP, that yes, had 120V AC going in, had 24V DC coming out on the larger output wires, but only had about 3V coming out on the smaller output wires. It also helped me verify the outputs on the new power supply, that as described elsewhere here as you are looking at it from that output side, 24V are the two on the left and 5V are the two on the right. It also verified for me that the NOYITO was marked correctly, with the two positive outputs being on the far left and right of the four, and the two negative outputs being the two in the middle. I can also add to the verification that for my Cinema 600 for the smaller 5V wires, white was GND, black was VDD and red was SBY, and I twisted the VDD and SBY together onto the +5V output of the new power supply. Now, yes, the NOYITO is about the same width, but shorter in length than the ETOP, and the metal heat sink grates, which are bigger and placed differently on the circuit board, don't seem to easily allow you to use one of the existing mounting holes in the soundbar backplate. I see here that some people have drilled new holes in the backplate to mount. I did not find that convenient for my 600, so I just have my replacement power supply sitting unmounted in there. The heat sinks do lay against the inside of the casing, but so far, the area has only felt tepidly warm to me. If that turns out to be an issue down the road, I would have to go back in there and figure out how and where to drill a new mounting hole or holes and get it to slide in and fit in there mounted to the backplate given that the size and orientation of the heat sinks make that harder to do. So, thanks again to Sixer and everyone here. This fix worked for my Cinema 600 soundbar. If Klipsch is smart and monitoring this, I want them to know that their reputation for quality has taken a hit with me. Being 3 years out, I did not choose to call them. But, it would have gone a long way with me if I had seen on their website a troubleshooting description of all of this, an acknowledgement of the customer experiences with these ETOP power supplies, and the offer of an inexpensive replacement that would include detailed and easy-to-follow instructions for doing so. In my book, that would have really set them apart in my eyes and gone a long way to enhance their reputation with me and win me over as a loyal long-term customer.

Hello @R1c0, @itsmeray, @CH315, @Dlayhue01 I just came across this thread otherwise I would have replied sooner. I use the Surround 3's with my soundbars. First, I had a BAR 48 so I know all about those issues. I too was given a Cinema 600 as a warranty replacement so I know all about the Cinema 600 issues too. My Cinema 600 died completely after a couple of months. I had just updated the firmware to the latest version a few days before Klipsch pulled that update. While Klipsch is pretty good about providing warranty replacements, if you are within the warranty period, the Cinema 600 doesn't really qualify as a replacement for the BAR 48. The BAR has more features than does the Cinema 600 and, while a warranty replacement doesn't have to be the same model, it does have to have compatible or better features than the model it is replacing. Both the BAR series and the Cinema series soundbars have major reliability issues, especially the BAR 48 and the Cinema 600. The most recently manufactured Cinema 600's are labeled Rev 3. 😞 When I pointed out to Klipsch that the BAR 48 specs had features not present in the Cinema 600, they replaced my dead Cinema 600 with a Cinema 800 that had just been released. Through all of this, my Surround 3's never gave me any problems. Here are some suggestions how to troubleshoot Surround 3 pairing issues. Move the Surround 3's close to the soundbar, say 3 to 5 feet, just in case there are any signal strength or interference issues. Move any bluetooth or Wi-Fi devices that could cause interference away from your soundbar. Make sure the switch on the back of the Surround 3's are set correctly: One should be in the "L" position; the other in the "R" position. If only one of the Surround 3 speakers is paired, try reversing the switches on the back so that left becomes right and right becomes left and try to pair them again. If the same physical speaker again pairs successfully, that would suggest the other speaker has an issue. If however the other speaker pairs successfully it would suggest that the soundbar is only able to pair to a specific channel (either the left or the right) and the failure to pairing is due to an issue with the soundbar. If you haven't done so already, I suggest you read these Cinema 600 articles.

Hey guys, thanks for the quick response on these. The basic answer to this question is a couple of no-name bookshelf speakers and sound bar. I am not really looking for an optimal sound eproduction situation here, I am far from an audiophile. I really just need a decent (not super) sub woofer to fill out the low end that can't be produced by the other speakers.

Unless it's a very, very fine lunch with a few friends & a large bar Tab!

I'm with @tragusa3 on his concerns about volume. Is this a bar you want people to be able to converse easily or have to raise their voices to be heard? The main reason klipsch will work so well for a bar is the intelligibility. If all drivers work (woofer, and two compression drivers for the midrange and tweeter) the crossovers can be fixex/updated/retored to original specs. If the Belle Klipsch cabinets are in nice shape, they have probably not been abused. Lascalas often have been as a lot of bands hauled them around or used them for P.A. A lot will depend on the price.

Seeking thoughts on where to next amplifier wise, to power a pair of Cornwall IV. Previously had a PrimaLuna Dialogue HP integrated (running new issue Tung-Sol KT120s and Mullard 12AU7s after various prior combos from several years of rolling). Moved from NZ to Vietnam, so (maybe foolishly) decided to simplify and sold the PL amp and am now left with a wee Bluesound PowerNode (the latest model) doing amp duties in an apartment. Due credit to the Bluesound; it’s doing a marvellous job most of the time (it always operated as the main amp for daily TV and music with the tubes being swapped in for a serious listening session) but its lack of inputs means my lovely Wand turntable and large vinyl collection is gathering dust in a spare room. So it’s time for a new bad boy to join the club. The intent was always to get a new amp once settled, but now I’m unsure which direction to go. I’m currently thinking of two broad options: 1 - 300B I’d love to get a nice SET amp and have a lust for the legendary 300B, which I’ve never heard. The PL was my first and only foray into the world of tubes (bar the very nice Line Magnetic LP33 phono) and I loved the balance of deep, thick and controlled bass with luscious mids that the PL was delivering. I’m considering dipping my toes in with a Willsenton R300, which is inexpensive (notwithstanding the tube rolling that will no doubt follow) and seems to have some really good reviews. The other, more pricey, option is a Cary Audio 300SEI. 2 - Class A (ideally) SS Whilst myself and the dog have largely adapted to the humidity and heat of Saigon (we seem to have averaged 33-34 every day for 5 months) I’m wondering whether solid state may be a better option in this environment. I’d love to get a Luxman 550/590 AXII while they’re still around, and have a list of various SS amps that are also good options from McIntosh, Accuphase and a few others. Living on the 31st floor is quite a change from the house on section, so my ability to crank the sound is rather more limited (though the walls are solid concrete, including all internal walls, so it’s a lot more flexible than other apartments I’ve experienced). That said, since getting the Cornwall (coming from Forte III) I’ve found my listening volume has come down as the sound from these is just so bloody clear and balanced at even low volumes I don’t feel the need to crank it until the vodka intake has surpassed a certain level. I like my bass, but I’ll take that super clean drum hit and reverb over bloated big thunderous bass. Thoughts and suggestions? Music wise it’s anything from jazz to K-pop here, but the realism, dynamics, vocals and cohesiveness is what matters most. Will a good 300B be able to control those big 15” woofers and give enough oomph or am I better off looking at a nice class A solid state?

Discovered this coffee bar in the district where I´m living now , it´s called Baristoteles Coffeehouse . Tasted their coffee yesterday , what shall I say ....absolutely delicious ...I made some pics , this how it looks inside

Guys thanks so much for this info on Bar 48 i had a similar issue of no power at sound bar,bought the power module from amazon and followed the instructions on how to wire it up,the new module powered up okay but still my soundabar didnt respond,i have tried everything on this thread but i gues mine had another issue.i really hate to throw in the towel by throwing it in the trash can.i really love the sound but i guess its time we part ways.

I can't sync the subwoofer to the sound bar Klipsch (Cinema 400)

I go to Walmart to pick up my bathroom toiletries. Bar soap, liquid hand soap, Old Spice Mens shampoo. And AC/DC gold vinyl And Rush red vinyl I didn't go for the vinyl but left with the vinyl. Impressive sound!

Blah, Duckburg spring weather. Snow flurries again? That stuff can quit anytime! Upgraditis @grasshopper? You know better. If it ain't broke don't fix it and to heck w/the Jone's next door. Keep an eye on that leg. Better you smelling "clinical" than me. Around here they smell ya and back up 3 feet. lol On the upside though, you and @MicroMara could be onto something. A new aftershave and body wash called "Clinical" for those that want a clean sanitary smell. Think about it. The wimmen at the bar ask what you do ya just tell 'em you're a doctor. 😂 Had a friend back in the day who was a Panamanian dude. He was super short and thin. We'd hit a bar and he'd go work the women. I couldn't figure it out. He ALWAYS wound up w/some good lookin chick. I asked him once what he was telling them and he told me the story. They asked what he did and he told them he was a jockey. Yes Sir, talk about a wtf moment? Worked every time. Clinical has possibilities. Get outta the box. 😂