Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'diy'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Klipsch Announcements
    • Klipsch News
    • Klipsch Pilgrimage 2020
    • Klipsch Website & Forum Info
  • Klipsch Museum of Audio History
    • Klipsch Museum: News & Announcements
    • Ask the Historian
    • Klipsch Museum: General Discussion
  • Klipsch Audio
    • General Klipsch Info
    • 2-Channel Home Audio
    • Home Theater
    • Subwoofers
    • Architectural
    • Klipsch Pro Audio
    • Technical/Restorations
    • Headphones
    • Personal Music Systems
    • Talkin' Tubes
    • Solid State
  • The Klipsch Joint
    • Garage Sale
    • Lounge


There are no results to display.

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





My System

See My System

Website URL








Found 24 results

  1. I lucked out and got a Klipsch KP-301 used for a few hundred bucks ! Since I have 2 Cornwalls, I figured it would be easier to build a 3rd as my center channel rather than buy a pair and store one (this is my first quasi-build). The components are identical to the CW + Chorus 2 but rated for 400w. I plan on mounting drivers from the front as well! My friend is helping me build these since I’m awful at woodcraft and I need to know the following: 1. Is the woofer on the Corns flush mounted or sunken/recessed? 2. Do the midrange and tweeter horns protrudes or are they sunked/recessed for a flat face? 3. How thick is the grill frame? 4. Below are the plans I’m utilizing. If we cut a hole per the specs, how much of a recessed edge do we need for each component? Any and all help is very appreciated and I’m stoked to show you guys how it turns out!
  2. Hello all, this is my first post to the forum. I recently acquired my first set of quality stereo speakers … in an unusual form factor: klipsch heresy wedge monitors , HIE crossovers. All original. 3743 and 3745 k-42-EV k-55-M k-77-M I got them for a deal , one works great… the other worked great for a moment… it started cutting out at lower volumes , and distorting at higher . At first I thought it could be failing caps , but I’ve read some good feedback on removing the zener diodes from circuit. I’ll be trying that today unless I am advised not to here . i am so eager to get these going , I’m sure the information is out there but I thought I’d make this post and see if one of you more knowledgeable people could point me in the right direction and get this going faster than I could researching between jobs. if I could retain the original caps by removing the zener diodes from circuit that would be ideal. If not I’ll probably recap both speakers and sell the original caps that test in spec. Yes I know it will eventually need to be recapped but they are expensive , especially for the HIE one. additionally - I want to use these for home stereo use mostly, so the boxes should go. Yes it is sad separating these drivers from their original cases … but to any of the offended I’ll say this : there’s nothing more fitting for these than an act of heresy. i am 24 and pretty tight w money so I’ll probably use a cheaper wood just to get them going and rehaul the project again in later years . i see some talk about converting HIE crossovers to AA style . If anyone could speak to the advantages of this - it is unclear to me as of now. I can’t have opinions about what style I prefer since I haven’t heard them. And I am still learning about what a “super heresy” is. Since I’ll be building new boxes for these , anything is possible . I’ll definitely need to implement some more low end eventually , whether that be the traditional separate sub, port, or something more innovative. I’ll be selling the wedge monitor boxes , if I could do this to fund the materials for building new boxes that would be great… I don’t have much room for storage . If anyone wanted to give any thoughts of what the boxes are worth , or the speakers as a whole , I can’t find much price references within recent years . Inflation moves fast these days . anyways , I’m normally hesitant to jump into forums but this one seems great from what I’ve seen . Excited to be here hope you have a great day.
  3. So in researching DIY HT subs, I've looked a lot at both of these lilmike designs. Here are some of the "vs" comparisons I've come up with. (Help me finish fleshing this out) Frequency Extension: - lilwrecker: tuned to 17Hz - F-20: tuned to 22Hz Dimensions: - lilwrecker: 70" tall x 28 1/2" deep x 25 3/8" wide - F-20: 60" tall x 20" deep x 29.375" wide Material List: - lilwrecker: 4 sheets of 3/4" plywood - F-20: 2 and a quarter sheets of 3/4" plywood DIY difficulty: (my w.a.g. from reading the threads) - lilwrecker: 5 of 10 - F-20: 3 of 10 Divers: (Prices as of Sept 2015) - lilwrecker: ----- Alpine SWS-15D2 - ($129.95) - Amazon link ----- Alpine SWS-15D4 - ($129.95)- Amazon Link ----- Kicker CVX152 - ($399.95) - Sonic Electronix Link ----- Kicker CVX154 - ($399.95) - Sonic Electronix Link - F-20 ----- Dayton Audio RSS390HF ($172.69) Parts-Express link Amplifiers (suggested) - lilwrecker ----- Berhinger iNUKE NU3000DSP - ($279.99) - Amazon link - F-20 ------ Not sure
  4. As can be clearly seen, the need to do something became over due. The Ikea rack takes up way too much space and, obviously, can´t cope with the 130lbs pf CRT-TV. The positioning of my center is also less than optimum. So i surfed the net a bit and found a solution for DIY that i can pull through, although my skills and tools are limited. The main components will be multiplex wood and threaded rods. I hope to come out with a rack that will be both cheaper and more durable than the ones you can buy. These are two of four plates i plan to use. Holes are already drilled and the left received the first coat of oil. Plates are birch and approx. 110cm/ 43" x 40cm/ 16", the uppermost is 3cm/ 1,2" thick, the others are 2cm/ 0,79". Connecting rods will be M16/ 5/8".
  5. Hello Klipsch fans! I've been asked by those following my home theater build videos over the past couple years to post a current and complete walk through video. I finally got around to documenting the completed basement build. It took me over two years from design to final build of what you see here and I did it all with my own two hands and it's been a ton of work. All my audio systems throughout the house are Klipsch so I thought it particularly relevant to post it on this forum. Here are some pics of the final areas as well as the full video tour down to the collectibles in my media room.
  6. This is in two chassis. It has many variacs or are some of them variable resistors? The two tubes in power supply are OA3 and the second chassis has 4 6l6gc 4 12ax7a and two 6sc7 tubes. Very good DIY but the parts are scary old. The output transformers are very small... This is power supply chassis
  7. Hi, I have a very nice amp chassis that I started to build a switcher box with based on the Zynsonix design/blog. It could also be come a cool integrated amp, or wire it up and add a knob and you have a cool switcher box for vintage gear. Selector swtich is a brand new Elma switch and the rcas are high quality gold plated teflon insulated. The chassis is a handmade heavy aluminum with butternut trim. Superficial margins on top will polish out with your elbow grease. I have well over $100 into this but no longer need it. How does $60 shipped sound? If DM I can send more photos. cheers! Mike A627FFAE-B7D2-4500-875F-F2FCF56630F2.heic
  8. Hello Community, This is my first post and I'm hoping I can use your collective knowledge. I have a pair of Klipsch XF-48s and they are quite phenomenal still after 10 years. I've been moving around a lot over the past years and it's possible I did some unwitting damage to one of the RCA plugs. Long story short, I was running speaker wire (speaker level) to the speakers from a Pioneer Elite receiver, IMO they sounded better than being plugged in via RCA but I digress. Now, I've purchased a new preamplifier Schiit Freya+ and was going to let the speakers power themselves and be fed via RCA cables. One of the speakers is fine, the other had a loose plug (last time I checked that was not the case but again I digress), I was quite alarmed and hoped this is not massive damage. Good thing is that sound still comes through good and clear no hum through RCA on the speaker in question. I called Klipsch via telephone and was told I should try to take off the faceplate via the front screws to access a nut that would tighten the RCA plug from the backside. Not being able to remove the faceplate made think of different solutions. I double checked the RCA plug and saw there was some travel but would not travel beyond say 2mm at that point it was very secure. I thought perhaps to get a plastic or rubber washer between the RCA plug and make it secure. Nothing like that was available so, I thought I'd use an old credit card and see if it fits beneath the RCA plug and between the speaker housing, it did. So, I cut two thin strips and had one layer on both sides but it was not snug, I was without too much effort to double it up and the RCA plug is almost as secure as the "good" speaker. Is this a good DIY fix or am I putting undue stress on the plug or the internal wiring? Should I have superglued the plug to the back? I'd like to hear from the community and hopefully find an elegant but most importantly a good solution. Looking forward to your responses, thank you.
  9. Hello all. My first time posting here because I'm looking into getting a new Home Audio System for my house. I have a old RC-35 center channel that could be used if I so choose (I've owned since new but has been in storage 99% of it's life in house). I’m wondering if I can update the RC-35 with a matching tweeter to the newer RP-xxxx lineup? Should I even worry about running different style Klipsch tweeters in my front sound stage? Will it fit without major rework of current design? Would I need a new cross-over? I haven’t decided 100% what I’m going with for complete system. I will build my surround system up as I go and start with a 3.1 system. I haven’t decided on springing for new RP-8000 or RP-6000 towers or just some RP-600M bookshelves to start. Main use is TV and movies but I do entertain guests with music ever other week or so and enjoy jamming out here and there to many differing types of music. Mainly classic rock, pop(Chromeo) some top 40 stuff. Receiver: I think I’m locked in on a Denon X4400H receiver for now. $800 right now but the X4500H should be going on sale soon says Best Buy Magnolia dude as of yesterday. New 4600H model will have better HDMI setup with E-arc to grab smart TV atmos signals. Work around is just use a Roku Ultra or external device instead of your smart TVs stuff. Additional info House: quick summation: Medium living room with 9’ Ceiling open to dining area and kitchen which combined are a little larger than the living room area because of the stairs attached to rear of living room going up to second story. Background on current system: I’ve had a SB-3 soundbar setup for a while. It sounds good BUT the 10” sub doesn’t have enough volume until I really crack it up. Going to move this to my Game room. https://www.klipsch.com/products/high-definition-theater-sb-3-soundbar History of before: I moved around a bit and felt like I needed to sell off my system that had large RF-3ii Towers in it (dual 8” woofers for those that don’t know). Worked great even with a crappy receiver. Shouldn’t have sold that stuff off though.. . testing - I did listen to some differing brands at a Magnolia setup the other day. They didn't have Klipsch setup there but I listened to Elac Debut 6.2 Towers with Definitive center and vise versa and the imaging wasn't terrible but those are not horn to dome transitions. ELac = silk dome, Definitive = Al. dome. So dumb how the didn't have ANY Klipsch Towers in their Magnolia room. Thanks!
  10. I'm very interested in your experiences with the Elekit (TU8200) tube amps kits. I have recently bought a pair of Klipsch RP 160M speakers mostly using a Denon microsystem with it. Last week, I bought a small, China made amp with two 6J1 tubes for under $100 and it sounds amazing with the Klipsch speakers (and on all the speakers I have in the house). In fact, it sounds better than the Denon. So now I'm really interested in a 'good' tube amp. I read Ken Rockwell's review of the Elekit https://kenrockwell.com/audio/elekit/tu-8200.htm. I'm just afraid I'm not up to the task of putting it together myself because I have NO soldering experience what so ever. I live in Europe - Belgium. The official importer of Elekit amps is in Poland. They charge €200 for full assembly. In your opinion, is that still a good deal? What is your experience with DIY tube amp kits? http://getaudio.eu/en/elekit-tu-8200-6l6gc-single-tube-amplifier-diy-kit/ https://tubedepot.com/products/elekit-tu-8200-stereo-tube-amplifier-kit
  11. Here is a picture of some speakers that I just completed. You could call them Cornwall III clones or Cornwall inspired, but they are DIY scratch built speakers. The cabinets are Baltic birch covered in South African waterfall bubinga. They are filled with factory drivers and crossovers, so of course, they sound amazing. I'm trying them in different rooms with different amplification to determine where they are going to stay. I Love this hobby!
  12. The wife is tired of my insanity. My Belles are up for sale and so is my DIY subwoofer and amp. The amp is about 3 months old (Crown XLS2002) and the subwoofer box is about the same. The two Dayton HF15 drivers are about a year old. It all works swimmingly and will melt your eyeballs and earholes. I'm asking $500 for everything. The crown amp is $500 new, the drivers are $172 a piece new. If you just want the drivers and the amp I can ditch the box. I'm in Northern CA. Would prefer local pickup but am willing to discuss shipping.
  13. Hey guys. I was going to get a pair og Forte lll in a month or two. But due to unforseen tax ''penalties'' i might not have the green this year. Therefore, i might just want to make something myself. I looked into the crites Cornscalas. But i think i am more into something like the CF4. 2 x 12" and a horn. It would be somewhat like a CF4 but with the horn on top. I really need some input though. Good or bad idea?
  14. This is a long term project but soldering starts today. It will eventually be house in a custom wood cabinet and consist of 4 chassis's. Not my schematic or design I am just the build and solder monkey. A friend is feeding me parts and schematics. This is the power supply. I am scared to weigh it. Timing circuit tubes on the left. Two 866 MV in the middle and two russian 6d22s tubes on the right. Chassis size is 17" x 15" x 6". My favorite feature is the vintage matching westinghouse meters. The flash makes it look worse than it is.. Dam flash. The cool military connectors will connect the different sections together safely. To be continued....... Guess what triode this baby will run????
  15. Hello all, im new here to the forum but I just received my speakers from crutchfield and got them set up and man they sound great! Ive had a fun time doing my project and though to share about what I have done and to see what you guys are doing in your HT's. What kind of equipment you run, how would you change your setup? Etc, etc. I have spent quite some time working to replace old components and make my HT the way I want it. My father always had component systems, i.e. Receiver, phono, tape, CD etc. so I grew up seeing these items and familiarizing myself with them. However, he wasn't an audiophile and bought mid grade components. Mostly Sony, I think the tape player was a fisher and the Phonos I recall were technics. Nothing over the top but usually sounded ok. Growing up listening to music a lot and becoming a musician I found appreciation for better quality sound. So when I bought my home a couple years ago, and after all the stuff I took care of to get it right for me like new carpet and paint, solar panels fixed and pool in tip top shape, it was time to get my theater how I wanted it for a price I could afford. Still working on it but as of now it's ok with me. For the past month or so I've been slowly working on my weekends off from work and usually with no ones help, to get my theater up and running and also aesthetically pleasing. It started with a new 75" Samsung screen to go atop my fireplace when I bought my home. I was using an old Sony receiver from 1999 that my father had purchased along with those JBL's and one day I popped in a blu-ray only to see a big picture. (Pun intended) there was no sound because the AVR I had was too old and couldn't decode the audio format. I went down to the local bestbuy and bought a STR-DN1050. I like it. I know it's not the best or most powerful but it seems to work for me. My home also came with outdoor patio speakers but they were exceedingly decrepit and sounded horrible. So I had the nice big flat panel, a decent AVR, I wound up getting some Yamaha outdoor speakers on sale at Best Buy and removing those old patio speakers and upon doing so, it kind of put me in a mode of getting things done. Upon changing the patio speakers, I realized how bad the wires were so I decided to put a bit more time into the job and run new wiring. That's basically the beginning. My whole home theater project started because I knew the wiring to my patio speakers was terrible and I had to do something about it. Once I ran new wiring to the patio speakers I sat down and looked at my tv and said to myself "I need to get rid of those wires" meaning the ones dangling from the tv to the avr stand and power plug. I began researching how to videos on YouTube and other places, talking to people who I know who are contractors or people who know the right ways to do things. I'm pretty knowledgeable I'd say but certain things (like finishing drywall) I just simply haven't done before and lack the experience. running the wires to the outdoor speakers was pretty simple because the previous owner had made a hole from in to outside and there was a piece of pvc tubing in the top portion of my fireplace wall for wiring to go thru and then down the wall to the AVR area. It was simple because I used the old wires to pull new ones thru. I didn't have to cut holes or use fishtape at all. However when it came to the point in which the speaker wire exited the wall they were lazy. They literally had a hole drilled and that was it. No outlet cover, no labeling, just a lazy junky looking hole with two wires coming out of it. For the time being I used that hole but that was the day I told myself I'm going to take on the project and make everything look legit and professional. Being a normal blue collar dude, I had to wait for my paychecks to come in for me to start getting all the supplies together. One thing that helped me out was living in Southern California and learning of a place called monoprice. Turns out they are right down the way from me about 30 minutes and I utilized the hell out of them. I recommend them to anyone who's trying to do what I just did for sure especially with the speaker wire and banana plugs. Best Buy rapes people on wire and plugs. I made a plan, and over the course of time and when I had the money to get the supplies I put together a vision. My goal was to run my home theater wiring, making it to where I had no visible wires anywhere, to save money by doing the work myself, most importantly do it properly and no Mickey moused and to learn as I went. The first hole. I began my first hole into my wall for a power receptacle for my flat screen. The cord was plugged into an extension cord and hanging down from the tv along with all the hdmi cables and etc. looked terrible. I hated it. I had purchased so 14/2 romex from the local Home Depot and a recessed outlet. I used a old work high voltage 1 gang fixture to put this new plug into and after I think 30 or 45 minutes I was all done installing the plug. I ran power from a nearby outlet on the same 15 amp breaker and said let there be power and there was and it was good. So that was one thing down. Another day I decided to get the hdmi and digital optical audio cables fished thru the walls from tv to AVR area. Did that, hardest part was having to take the giant flat panel off the wall and try not to drop it cause I had no one to help me. I highly recommend using help. I would have but everyone was busy. In order to place the hdmi and optical cables to the right locations I had to cut out an access point in my wall because there was a fireblock in the way. For those who don't know, fireblocks are horizontal studs between a set of vertical studs and they are inconsistently placed in a wall to help reduce the spread of fire. I had to drill a 1 inch hole thru them to fit my wires thru and of course seal them with a California code approved fireblock sealant when I was all done. As time went on I got more and more done and finally on the last weekend for the last part of the job which I was dreading most, my little friend Brian came by to give me a hand. See, I have cathedral ceilings in my house and I wasn't sure if I could get all the way over to the areas needed to penetrate the top plate to run the rear surround wiring which was on the farthest exterior wall from my attic access point. Turns out I can fit myself up there but Brian being a fraction of my size did it much easier. he helped me out a lot that day and we got all the wiring in the attic done, all the top plates got sealed. All that was left was to add a couple more plates for the two front speakers next to the fireplace and the subwoofer outlet on the far left side of room. We got those wrapped up and then I just waited. I had had ordered my Klipsch R28F speakers along with the R12SW from crutchfield. I saved over 100$ on taxes because they offer free shipping and no tax. So while I waited to for my new awesome speakers to come in, I cleaned up the living room, put my couch back into place. Vacuumed up a bit and waited for the day I'd see my speakers in my living room. Well that day was actually two days but I got my speakers as soon as they got off the plane. I drove to Ontario, Calif. to the UPS freight warehouse where I was able to pick them up immediately. Awesome. I got them a day in advance. My sub on the other hand, I didn't get it until Tuesday at 2036. It was 30 minutes past my bedtime. I couldn't even turn it on. So now it's been a couple of days since I've had them and man they sound amazing! I hooked everything up very simply and had power to them in like 2 seconds thanks to my idea of putting a speaker wire +/- outlet behind every speaker. I should mention that I added a home theater distribution panel as well and that made things super clean and easy. im still working on smoothing out my dry way and getting it ready for texture cause I have to retexture the spots I cut a hole into but I'll have to finish that this weekend. But for now, I'm happy as a pig in slop knowing that I did the work myself and saved a lot of money, I got some great speakers and I finally have a system that I got for myself that sounds really good. Sense of accomplishment with the whole thing. So how about you? Share your home theater stories or equipment specs or whatever. Samsung 75" LED Smart TV Samsung Blu-Ray player Sony STR DN-1050 jailbroken fire stick custom built media server running pled, w/16 TB storage for backup of media. (No more cd or dvds laying around taking up shelving space!) Klipsch R28F's for front L/R Klipsch R25C for center Klipsch R15M's for surrounds Klipsch R12SW for sub currently have my settings on my AVR and sub set to this. Front speakers Large Center small and EQ rounded up to nearest 10 from what manual says is lowest frequency response of speaker. Surrounds small and EQ is set in the same manner as center channel. Sub is plugged into LFE only. Gain is set to just before midpoint (like 4.5/11) EQ dial on sub is set all the way up. phase is at 0. I found that my settings allow for a smooth bass. Not too much and not too little. It picks up all the bass noise in movies and sounds great for music. I ran the auto calibration on my AVR also before I started listening. my fronts and center is 10 ft for fronts and 10 ft 2 inches away from seating position and AVR picked that up accurately. my sub is 13 ft from seating position and got picked up at around 15 ft and applies a -6db drop. my surrounds are 6.5 feet away from seating position and 1db increase was put on them. im going to try to add some photos of my work and a bit of what my setup looks like but I'll have to do it in another post just below this one. Please excuse my mess of tools, wires and energy drinks on my table in some of the photos.
  16. New member the forum, but I've been reading here for years. I recently had a pair of La Scalas that came with an extra pair of crossovers. I passed the La Scalas on, but I still have the extra crossovers. I want to build a pair of Cornwalls. The crossovers look just like Cornwall crossovers, but there must be some differences. If you were to put together a set of Cornwalls from mix-n-matched components, which horns, mids, & drivers would you use? Or would you just build cornscalas instead?
  17. It has been 7 years since I posted part 2. Here is my main 2-channel rig, as it sits today. I just added the Maplenoll clone (air bearing turntable). The stand I built last year to fit around the amps. Top shelf - Maplenoll clone turntable, Shanling CD-T1500 SACD, Clearaudio Champion II turntable 2nd shelf - Samsung 2T hard drive, Auralic Aires Mini DAC/music server, Sonic Euphoria passive preamp, Lounge Audio phono preamp 3rd shelf - PS Audio Quintessence power center Far right - Tascam BR-20 reel to reel On the floor - Antique Sound Labs AQ1006 845 DT MKII mono blocks Speakers are DIY using Altec and JBL parts /img]
  18. Hello, I am EJH now HJE due to email change and forgotten password. It's hard to believe I built this speaker over 12 years ago. Here is the original post: https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/35073-another-diy-center/#entry1980157 I am ready to sell the box or part it out. A little background to the project. I owned a pair of LaScalas and at the time I wanted an Academy center for my developing HT setup. Unable to find or win a bid for an Academy, I set out to build my own. It's not the same, I know. I had fun, I learned, I screamed and I laughed. I also enjoyed the sound from my own creation. Twelve years later, the LaScalas are long gone, replaced by 1980 Heresys and it's time to down size again. The kids have pushed in the Fostex dual cone whizzers some time ago and I'm just not using it much. And recently we changed the entertainment furniture and the center lost its home. So I'm looking for a good home for the parts or all. Here is what I have inside: Dimensions: 31.5W X 10.5H X 16D Tweeter: K-76 Heresy II (with bucking magnet) Squawker: K-53 Heresy II Woofers: Fostex FE206E (with bucking magnet) isolated in ~0.74cu. ft., 2.5in ports at ~4.75in length Crossover: Heresy II, replaced Caps with Solen & Kimber woofers (8ohm ea.) in parallel with a 4ohm 10w resistor in series on the + input I put over $450 into them. I hope for some reasonable offers. They have been through a few moves and the laminate is scratched and bubbling. I cannot ship the entire box. I will consider shipping parts at the cost of shipping and materials. Thanks, EJH aka HJE
  19. I am sure I am going to be beaten down on this subject. I want to build a Cornwall cabinet and use lower end drivers and crossovers. Like Eminence or Dayton. I know it wont sound like the original. I know that I am on a Klipsch forum. There has got to be a way that a blue collar guy with blue collar wages and some basic speaker building skills can have a nice set of hand made speakers to sit back and enjoy. I have all the plans and step buy step photos of the clone build. Why cant I use a Dayton and find a 3 way crossover and horns that are near spec? I am no audiophile, I just like my tunes. I made a pair of MTM's last year. EH, they sound good but lack that big speaker look and feel I remember for when I was a child. I posted to forums then while I was building the cabs and I was torn to shreds because I wasnt following the rules. Well, my windows rattle and everything from Meddle, to Random Access Memories sounds crisp and clear. This was using Dayton drivers for the MTM and GRS for my subs. I will probably do it anyway but It would be appreciated if someone knew what would work together. I am unfamiliar with horns but I really want some. Please someone offer up some suggestions.
  20. Hello again! I have a question...I have installed some more in wall speakers, polk audio rc85i, I know they aren't Klipsch, but everything else is I swear! How in the heck do I take them out? I have tried simply unscrewing the screws, but the latches inside the wall don't unlatch. Its a mystery! Help! -s
  21. I'm using a trio of KP250 speakers in my home theater and because of the limits of the room, I'm having to put the center channel speaker on it's side. Given that the speaker cabinet has been 'well loved', I was thinking about building a new cabinet for the speakers - one that is designed to fit into the space. My idea is to move the midrange, tweeter and ports to one of the side panels and have the woofer firing either out the top or bottom (the latter would require me to put feet on the 'bottom' of the speaker so the woofer would have room to move / radiate). Essentially, the speaker would be face down (or face up) with the ports, tweeter and midrange firing out a side. Given that the internal dimensions would remain the same and the porting would remain the same - are there any pitfalls (other than making sure that the woofer magnet doesn't interfere with the midrange compression driver) to be worried about? Unfortunately, I can't use an Academy center channel as (a) it isn't sensitive enough compared to the KP250, ( it's too wide for the space even if it were a good match and © they're expensive as hell. Thanks in advance for any advice, -D
  22. From the album: Super La Scalas

    Crossover DIY build see thread for more details and information Now completely finished and pumping out music

    © Full Range

  23. From the album: Super La Scalas

    Crossover DIY build see thread for more details and information

    © Full Range

  24. Hello all, I'm pretty new to this forum, but have owned Klipsch for quite a while. I have two pairs of KG 5.5's that I would like to fully upgrade. I have already ordered the titanium tweeter diaphragms from Bob Crites, and they should arrive soon. I am also considering new crossovers, but will install the diaphragms first and see how they sound. Unfortunately (and I will freely admit) I am not the greatest DIY guy in the world. Ask me about computers and I'm all over it, but wiring and building is not my forte.... So, what I'm asking for is some advice and hopefully a point to an illustrated, step by step presentation of how to get into, improve, and button up these speakers. I've not even opened them yet, so I don't know what to expect....They have not been stressed at all, and are in quite pristine condition, but while I have a few bucks, I would like to upgrade them for the long haul... Some additional info: I'm going to be using these in a HT/music setup, so I will be purchasing a Yamaha Aventage receiver, as well as an Emotiva XPA-5 amp. Music tastes are classic rock, soul/funk, jazz, Pavarotti and others.... A few questions based on some reading I've done.... 1. Replace the crossovers with Crites? Highly recommended? 2. Shall I install some damping foam inside the cabinets? - How? 3. Do the cabinets need bracing? Is this necessary? 4. Anything else? Again, if someone could point me to a site where I could see some of this, and learn more, that would be awesome. Thanks so much for all of your help. Jim
  • Create New...