Deang Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 We haven't decided yet if we want to show you guys the first thing we did - not for the faint of heart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Tease Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 What reference models did you feel sounded lean? I can see how some of the smaller reference might sound that way. I prefer the RF7, RF83 and RF7ii over my previous forteii and chorusii. They have a huge soundstage, commanding bass and work very well for both 2ch and HT. Give them some solid power and they open up and shine even more. I did a ton of side by side with the rf-7ii vs the cornwalls. It was really fun to battle two great speakers separated by 30 years. When i was done it was clear to me why klipsch has been around so long. Both are great speakers that live up to all the hype they get. One does this better and the other this better. But they both have a very similar sound and explains why they almost called the rf-7s the RF-Heritage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 (edited) strong, authoritative bass wasn't something they were very good at. WOW. Was this with your PLX2? I'd almost wager that statement is amp dependent. Even RF-5's pound and go relatively deep with a hundred watts or two. I agree the rf-7ii pound your chest like someone is punching you lol. But I found in my set up at least they needed a little eq in the low region to really pound. When i ran them with a flat eq they did very little in the bass area unless it was cranked really loud. And i would wonder why they even have those huge ports if no air is being moved. But after i eq the bass up they push as much air as one of my pb svs subs. Its very impressive. Great example of how set up can be everything to performance Edited December 20, 2013 by reference_head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackGTS Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 We haven't decided yet if we want to show you guys the first thing we did - not for the faint of heart. If we would gasp or cringe, please, don't show. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vital Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 What reference models did you feel sounded lean? I can see how some of the smaller reference might sound that way. I prefer the RF7, RF83 and RF7ii over my previous forteii and chorusii. They have a huge soundstage, commanding bass and work very well for both 2ch and HT. Give them some solid power and they open up and shine even more. I did a ton of side by side with the rf-7ii vs the cornwalls. It was really fun to battle two great speakers separated by 30 years. When i was done it was clear to me why klipsch has been around so long. Both are great speakers that live up to all the hype they get. One does this better and the other this better. But they both have a very similar sound and explains why they almost called the rf-7s the RF-Heritage. This was my experience as well between the RF-7 and the Chorus ll. I could not really pick a winner between the two. I ran the Chorus ll's for a few years and now I'm running RF-7's again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tremors Posted December 21, 2013 Share Posted December 21, 2013 Could someone please tell me what the biggest noticeable difference is when adding Dean's crossovers in? Dean, feel free to weigh in yourself, I just thought someone might save you the time I presume it helps with the somewhat sharp/harsh characteristic of the horn loaded speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quakana Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Could someone please tell me what the biggest noticeable difference is when adding Dean's crossovers in? Dean, feel free to weigh in yourself, I just thought someone might save you the time I presume it helps with the somewhat sharp/harsh characteristic of the horn loaded speaker. I'm a Newbie with RF-7ii's and am interested as well....in both the answer to Tremors question and having the mod done for mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 Youthman, Please pics of progress. What needs to be done to get into these babies. babadono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted December 31, 2013 Author Moderators Share Posted December 31, 2013 Sorry guys, the holidays have kept me busy and I'm headed to Snowshoe, WV to do some snowboarding. It will be a little bit before I can open them up. Shouldn't be too difficult. My plan is to remove the top woofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) delete Edited December 31, 2013 by reference_head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heritage_Head Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 (edited) Youth you love them so much now i would be a little scared if the change will be better to your ears. I would guess that its a good chance you will like it. I read the part that they won't change the sound just refine it. But you know what they say about a good thing (don't mess with a good thing) Edited December 31, 2013 by reference_head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted February 28, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted February 28, 2014 It's a little embarassing that I started this thread in December! This morning, I decided to tackle the first crossover. From start to finish (taking my time), it took 20 minutes to remove the first crossover. After analyzing the situation, I decided the best approach would be to remove the middle woofer. Upon doing that, both the woofers and tweeter were easily accessible to remove the speaker cables. Success! Dean, I'll get the second one removed, and once I'm finished with the process, I'll upload some pics showing the process. Pretty straight forward. The hardest part will be to connect the negative speaker cable to the tweeter since it is on the opposite side of the viewing position. I'll have to feel blind but it shouldn't be too difficult at all. As far as skill level needed for the removal, I'd say it's pretty simple and straight forward. Stay tuned! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted February 28, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted February 28, 2014 (edited) 2nd crossover has been removed successfully. Took 15 minutes to remove the 2nd crossover. 5 minutes just trying to remove the woofer safely without scratching the cabinet. For me to remove and install both crossovers, I'm probably looking at between 1 - 1.5hrs total time. Edited February 28, 2014 by Youthman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted March 1, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) CROSSOVER REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR KLIPSCH RF-7II SPEAKERS TOOLS USED: T20 Torx Screwdriver Very tiny Flathead Screwdriver (like the ones used for eyeglasses) Needle Nose Plyers Flashlight Kitchen Towel Mailing Labels Pen Step 1: Lay speaker down on it's back with the woofers facing upwards. Step 2: Using a T20 Torx Screwdriver, remove the 4 Machine Screws from the top woofer. Step 3: NOTE: Removing the woofer was the most difficult part. The woofer is recessed slightly below the surface of the speaker. I used a flat head screwdriver to slide inside one of the screw holes of the speaker and placed the screwdriver in between the speaker cabinet and the speaker basket to lift one edge of the speaker. Step 3: Once one side of the speaker is lifted, gently remove the speaker and place your kitchen towel underneath the magnet and set it on top of the speaker cabinet (notice I think to do this until after the fact). The towel will keep you from possibly scratching the speaker cabinet with the speaker. Step 4: I chose to use a Mailing Label to label the speaker cable for easier re-installation later. The positive (red) speaker terminal is larger than the negative (black) speaker terminal so it is not necessary to label the terminals on the speaker as they will only fit one way. Note: Labeling the cables might not be necessary since the Red/Black speaker cables for the woofers are slightly different lengths. The longer (Red/Black) cable is used to connect to the top woofer and the shorter (Red/Black) cable is used to connect to the lower woofer. Step 5: Slide the plastic sleeve on the speaker cables to allow for better grip to remove the speaker cables from the speaker. Using needle nose plyers, gently grab the metal speaker connector and remove each speaker cable from the speaker. Step 6: Set the RF-7II Woofer to the side and simply admire it's beauty. Break's over....let's get back to work. Step 7: With the upper woofer now removed, you will have easy access to remove the speaker cable from the lower woofer as you did in Steps 5 & 6. Step 8: It is a good idea to place labels on the magnet of the tweeter for "Green" and "Black". I found that they are on different locations for each speaker. Step 9: Remove the speaker wires from the tweeter by pressing upwards on the Speaker Terminal (shown below). The terminal is spring loaded and will "release" the speaker wire when you press it. The photo below is the view of the rear of the tweeter by looking into the Upper Woofer hole on the front of the speaker cabinet. You can see how I have already partially removed the tweeter wire by pressing upward on the speaker terminal post to release the speaker wire. Pressing up on the speaker terminal releases the tension against the speaker wire and allows you to remove it from the speaker terminal. Step 10: Return the speaker to it's upright position. Using a T20 Torx Screwdriver, remove the 4 wood screws from the Speaker Terminal Cup on the back of the speaker. Step 11: Gently pull the crossover away from the speaker. The crossover is a snug fit but removes very easily. You will not be able to pull it too far because of the speaker cables inside (see next step). Edited November 15, 2014 by Youthman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted March 1, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted March 1, 2014 (edited) Step 12: Inside the speaker, there are two Speaker Cable Restraints to help keep the speaker cables organized within the cabinet. In order to remove the crossovers, you will need to feed the speaker cables through the restraints. One restraint is located just below the bottom woofer and can be accessed through the upper woofer hole. The second cable restraint is just above the Speaker Terminal Cup and can be accessed from the back of the speaker. Below you can see where the upper cable restraint is located just below the lower woofer. While I was removing one of the crossovers, I noticed one of the speaker cable restraints was unattached to the speaker. They are held against the inside of the speaker cabinet by Adhesive. I didn't realize they had a release button. If you can see it, To open the cable restraint, simply press down on the release button. This method is much easier than trying to feed the cables through the hole. Edited November 15, 2014 by Youthman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larbo13 Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Your ....ing crazy lol. But that looks so cool. Awsome pics. Keep going, I want more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted March 1, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted March 1, 2014 Why am I crazy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted March 1, 2014 Author Moderators Share Posted March 1, 2014 Ok, you know those Cable Restraints that don't stick too well? The one in the photo above is stuck to my hardwood floors. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Nicely done ym! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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