Coytee Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Got these custom cover plates for speaker wires. I've never messed with these before. Should I solder the wires to them or, mount the wires into a circular eyelet (forget what they're called) and bolt it to the backside? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheric Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) If you could solder them neatly, nicely and professionally; I would go for it. If not, use the "eyelets" and screw them to the backside. Or, you could solder the wires to the eyelets and screws them on . On the other terminals (round/gray ones), you might have to do the soldering, no other options. Edited May 3, 2014 by cheric 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 The round terminals are for my XLR connectors. I'm wondering about the four posts sticking up. Those are for the speaker wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 I don't know how neat nor professional my soldering might look.... I'm about 4 certifications below a rank beginner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeker Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I don't know how neat nor professional my soldering might look.... I'm about 4 certifications below a rank beginner. Im pretty sure your just joshing me with your comment I had the same type of situation and I found the only way was to solder. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheric Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Did these on one of my projects... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 When it comes to anything carrying Load/Signal/Freq.....Solder, always solder, solder does not fail. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Panza Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 overall, I enjoyed Soldiering more...but, there were some times... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 solder does not fail Thats if done right, a wise man once told me a good crimp would be better then a bad solder. I like the soldering to the ring terminals then bolting the terminals on. Those post are pretty thick, it would take some heat to heat them up to solder to them. I have had very good luck with crimping ring terminal and bolting them on, but if you think you can solder good then go for soldering the ring terminals for a permanent install. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Guy Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 How about a nice gold plated copper spade? Parts-Express.com sells them pretty cheap in many sizes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 If I use a crimp connector I always crimp first then solder. So both for me. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Richard, if you don't know how to solder, then don't. Bob says a good crimp is as good as a good solder joint. I've been playing around with this as I've been working with female disconnects and wire. I do a test where I crimp the connection and then dip it in water. I pat everything dry and cut through the connector. I then dab the exposed wire on some tissue paper and look for water. To get a successful test you need a sufficient amount of metal on the barrel section of the connector, and a professional quality crimper. Bob uses one with the interchangeable dies, I use a Klein T1715. Connections should be gas-less. My water test isn't perfect, but it taught me that what what Bob told me is true - manufacturers are saving money by using less metal on the barrel of the disconnect, so it's harder to get a proper crimp. We spend a crazy amount of time sourcing quality parts for our work. The "gold" plated stuff from parts express is junk. Use Tyco/Amp or Panduit if you're serious. Conduct-tite by Dorman Industries, available at Autozone, is decent. This whole issue is why I don't use barrier strips with only a screw. What's the point in worrying about a good connection and then slipping it into a part that doesn't meet any of the criteria you set for your other connections. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Crimps are great as long as they are ThomasBetts, they are just about the only good quality ones left. And I agree with another post, solder ring terminals 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) My solder jobs look like someone squeezed solder out of a toothpaste tube. OTOH, I have the correct crimping tools, yet I have also managed to crimp so poorly I have squeezed the connecters so hard they have broken in half. Hope that helps! Edited May 3, 2014 by wvu80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Crimps are great as long as they are ThomasBetts, they are just about the only good quality ones left. And I agree with another post, solder ring terminals Looks on par with Panduit. Not cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL Sargent Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I guess I'm old school. I prefer to solder everything. I even went to a 2 week soldering school in the good ole USAF. Richard you are welcome to give me a call and I will do all in my power to make you an expert with a soldering iron. I have soldered everything from speaker tinsel wire to radiators to sheet copper. Clean terminals with acetone and pretinning your wires is an excellent start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Just some pics I took while while messing around with this stuff the other night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Panza Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Wish the Air Farce had taught me that, instead of the Fork Lift... I guess I'm old school. I prefer to solder everything. I even went to a 2 week soldering school in the good ole USAF. Richard you are welcome to give me a call and I will do all in my power to make you an expert with a soldering iron. I have soldered everything from speaker tinsel wire to radiators to sheet copper. Clean terminals with acetone and pretinning your wires is an excellent start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 "Clean terminals with acetone and pretinning your wires is an excellent start." I've never tried acetone, I use denatured alcohol. Bob and myself both use tin coated wire as much as possible, it takes solder really well. You hit it on the head with things needing to be clean though, that's half the battle, and that goes for the tip too. The other half is the right solder (63/37) in combination with the right amount of heat, which over here always means 850 degrees. I use heat sinks, and then get in and get out. Dirty tips and not enough heat keeps you on the part too long, and even with heat sinks, you're going to end up melting a part or damaging the delicate film of the cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Guy Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 A little article on crimping or soldering connectors. http://www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/crimping-and-soldering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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