Deang Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Back to barrier strip, which I consider the weak link in all of this. A successful crimp involves compressing and deforming the metal of the parts you're connecting. The crimp is not acceptable unless there is enough compression to crush the two (or more) leads together - a proper crimp is also considered a "gas-less connection." The first picture is a comparison of the commonly used part to the one I use, which I get from www.partsexpress.com notice the square, metal plate attached to the screw. It digs into the part, causing a clear deformation. It's also not subject to vibration and so won't become loose and back out. I didn't mean to hijack your thread Richard, but if you apply the lessons to your project, it'll be solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sancho Panza Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 How about a nice gold plated copper spade? Parts-Express.com sells them pretty cheap in many sizes. those look nice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Guy Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) When using crimp terminals I never crimp over the plastic covers if they are used. I always remove the plastic and crimp on just the metal and use multiple crimps to form a nice tight and well shaped crimp, not just squashed. Similar to this . The crimp terminals with a separate crimp for insulation like in this photo are nice also. If I use plastic covers I remove them and slide them on the wire first then slide them back after the crimp is made. Also many of the plastic covered type crimp terminals are very cheap and flimsy, always look at the quality. Edited May 3, 2014 by Rich_Guy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Most of us use "insulated" terminals, the outside part covering the barrel is either vinyl or nylon. Your picture is showing non-insulated female disconnects. Insulated and non-insulated terminals use different crimpers. Good parts like Tyco/Amp, Panduit, or the Thomas and Betts - are anything but flimsy. Now, a little flimsy isn't necessarily a bad thing as long as the barrel is the right size for the die that's being used. A part can be a little soft and still be a good part - the Conduct-tite small parts from Autozone are a good example of that. The barrels are the right size and the spades or rings will deform when you torque down the screw, which is what you want. At work we've been given marching orders to go back and ground all of our racks, cabinets, and switches. We've been doing it for years, but with over 700 buildings and 4000 Comm Rooms - well - let's just say we've got some work to do. We crimp 6 gauge wire into a double hole lug, and it's done using hydraulic crimpers. I got a nice laugh by beating one down with a hammer and getting a crimp that looked almost as good as what the crimper gave us. There's nothing wrong with squashing - the more "squashed" it is the better the connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Either crimp or solder connections are great options as long as its done right. I avoid the crimp style with the plastic sleeves myself as you crimp more of the plastic sleeve than the connection itself, if it must be insulated i would go with heat shrink tubing over the crimped joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Guy Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Your picture is showing non-insulated female disconnects. Insulated and non-insulated terminals use different crimpers Yes and I always use either non-insulated terminals or treat insulated ones like non insulated ones for crimping and either remove then return the insulated ring or more often use heat shrink tubing and make my own. I prefer to never just squash the insulated terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL Sargent Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Youtube is your friend for something like this. Several good videos on the subject of soldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Got these custom cover plates for speaker wires. I've never messed with these before. Should I solder the wires to them or, mount the wires into a circular eyelet (forget what they're called) and bolt it to the backside? You should learn how to solder anyway. Play around with it on some stuff before you dive in on the plates. I really like paste flux. I push my wire right into it, and put a dab of paste on the terminal. Then I attach the wire to the terminal. When the iron is hot enough, I just put the iron to the terminal/wire, and when it sizzles, just start adding solder. Pull the iron and solder away, and you are done unless you want to clean off the solder afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeker Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) I said solder but if screwing it down is easy and works go for it...both are effective...I may put a little blue threadlock on it if screwed.. Edit: I meant no offense about my first statement about joshing me about soldering...I have my station and guns but it can be a pain if you dont have a setup etc... Edited May 4, 2014 by beeker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Guy Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) As far as solder or crimp both can work well when done well. I am sure the inside components of your system are full of both kinds of connections. It's probably easier to do a good job of crimping if you can't solder very well. Do you use trigger wires? I soldered together some nice custom trigger wires for my system. It might be a good way to get in a little soldering practice for you, something very easy that either works or doesn't. It's not a very good picture they are a very nice looking blue TechFlex, the connectors are Neutrik 1/8" (3.5 mm) mono mini plug connectors . Edited May 4, 2014 by Rich_Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Before more of the same comments continue, I DO know how to solder... since 8th grade. I was just poking some fun at myself mixed with admitting I'm not an expert at it.... My joints are not as neat/tidy as most. I have (if I recall) a Weller 15 watt (that's the part I don't remember) stick solder as well as a pistol grip with light that I think is 100 watts. I just got done tinning a bunch of 'cups' that I'll attach my XLR wires to. This prong on the back of this speaker post just strikes me as rather thick and I didn't know if it was designed to be soldered or bolted on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL Sargent Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 You are gonna be set up when you get all that on the walls LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 And so why aren't your joints as neat and tidy as most, Richard? Dag gone, all those damn posts and pictures for nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 I tried to solder to those post I don't think they are meant for that, I think it would take quite a bit of heat to get them to pull solder. You would end up melting the plate first. I would solder to the ring terminals, and bolt them down with lock washer so they make that imprint, kind of what Dean is showing on some of his pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Guy Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Yep put a ring or spade around the post, if you wish to use solder or crimp the ring/spade to your wire take your choice both can be done well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 And so why aren't your joints as neat and tidy as most, Richard? Dag gone, all those damn posts and pictures for nothing. Let's just say they'll never be as good as yours [y] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 I tried to solder to those post I don't think they are meant for that, I think it would take quite a bit of heat to get them to pull solder. You would end up melting the plate first. I would solder to the ring terminals, and bolt them down with lock washer so they make that imprint, kind of what Dean is showing on some of his pics. Yup. You can solder smaller gauge wire on the posts, but you need a hot iron and be quick about it. But in this application, one is better off using the ring terminals in case one needs to pull a panel to troubleshoot, or modify/change things around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Wait, I think that's +2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jorjen Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Sheeesh, let me say this again........Crimp THEN solder! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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