CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Op, So you're going to wire the dual 4 ohm voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load, and then put each one on separate channel of the amp? yes that should be exactly what he is doing. Dual 4's won't be available till May per the web site. He should get the dual 2's and wire for 4 Ohm/side. The amp still has more power than he'll need at 4 Ohms and will work easier. Perhaps I got the last 2 because they are on a FedEx truck scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Awesome! Be sure to set your peak limiters so you don't smoke the drivers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 baby steps man! i'm still trying to figure out the small stuff. like how to solder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Holler if we can help. Anyone in this thread including myself will be happy to help you any way they can (speaking for them too ) . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Cecca the inukes are pretty well known for putting about half their actual power out. So Id think he will get around 750-800 watts per driver. Limiters can be set but I doubt they will ever kick in. Lots of guys put 1000-1100 to the SI drivers in sealed boxes without issues. Obviously ported will be different but I think the guy who made the marty cube also ran his at 1000 watts. Set the bottom end around 17hz. Not sure what the Stonehenge is tuned to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Not sure what the Stonehenge is tuned to? Without looking, I think they're tuned around 17Hz also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Cecca the inukes are pretty well known for putting about half their actual power out. Wow, I had no idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Cecca the inukes are pretty well known for putting about half their actual power out. So Id think he will get around 750-800 watts per driver. Limiters can be set but I doubt they will ever kick in. Lots of guys put 1000-1100 to the SI drivers in sealed boxes without issues. Obviously ported will be different but I think the guy who made the marty cube also ran his at 1000 watts. Set the bottom end around 17hz. Not sure what the Stonehenge is tuned to? I was wondering about this. i would love to put some 2 ohm 1000 Watt dummy loads on one of these. Then run a 20Hz sine wave up to clipping and see how much power they are really capable of. I'm just not curious enough to buy one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Guess what showed up today! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 It's so funny how big they will seem for a little while. Then you will get so used to seeing 18" woofers everything else will look tiny. I even think rc-64 and my palladium center look tiny cause I'm so used to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceptorman Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Guess what showed up today! I'll bet that speaker weighs more than her! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 i got the flat packs from DIYSoundGroup yesterday. Arrived a little less than a week after I ordered them. Each sub is 2 boxes. 20oz Mt. Dew for scale It's packed nicely and securely. Zero issues with any of the pieces being chipped or misshapen. I put the pieces together just to get a picture of what it would look like. Everything fits in the slots so perfectly that I feel like I'm cheating somehow. But I'm still going to tell people "I built it." First step of the first one done. Will duplicate this step on the second one as soon as it dries. I only clamped the sides of the main cross brace and weighted it down with a bucket of paint. Again, it all fits so snugly and perfectly that I can't imagine you need to clamp everything. That's also what Erich says in his instructions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 just a question in your second last picture above it looks (to me any way) that the two braces (vertical) per side are cut away from the side and do not brace the side panels only butt up against the sides at the top and the bottom of the box. Why would you miss the opportunity to brace the sides? Ha you turned these verticals 180 degrees they would have provided much needed side wall bracing though the chamfre weakens the piece as a brace, you need width to make a strong rigid brace. If I am mistaken I apologize in advance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 Good eyes. I just threw them in there to check all the pieces out. They are in fact turned the way you suggested in the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 (edited) just a question in your second last picture above it looks (to me any way) that the two braces (vertical) per side are cut away from the side and do not brace the side panels only butt up against the sides at the top and the bottom of the box. Why would you miss the opportunity to brace the sides? Ha you turned these verticals 180 degrees they would have provided much needed side wall bracing though the chamfre weakens the piece as a brace, you need width to make a strong rigid brace. If I am mistaken I apologize in advance. Looking at the build instructions, he will have side bracing at a later step: Edited April 6, 2015 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dewthedru Posted April 6, 2015 Author Share Posted April 6, 2015 yep. i am now ready to put all the panels on. this thing is stupid easy to build. love it. the only question i have so far is that Erich suggests driving the driver mounting screws directly into the stonehendge looking supports in the box, presumably with wood screws. some of you have recommended using tee bolts instead which would presumably be inserted into a gap between the supporting stonehenge pieces. thoughts? i bought a bunch of #10 tee bolts to use and and leaning that way. i'm also trying to figure out how to improve the WAF on this build. painting semigloss black is the first option but i'm considering putting a nice top on it so it looks more like an end table. however, they'll be at the front of the room by the screen so this may be a bit silly since nobody puts end tables up front and they wouldn't be holding anything. just trying to think of a way to spruce up the look a bit. hmmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Looks like a nice kit you have there. Screws don't hold worth a dam in pressboard, it would probably be OK if you drive them in once and leave them but if you take the driver in an out they will end up stripped holes but that can be fixed as well with wood glue & toothpicks. Its your choice. If you go the T nut route use a little epoxy to hold them in the panel but careful not to muck up the threads. Want something different ? Paint them satin black and find a local artist airbrush a panel to mimik a safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 I think the figures for the I Nuke powers are about 2200 watts for the I Nuke 3000 in bridge mode and the same for each channel of the I Nuke 6000 amps. I went back and forth on using and not using the limiters. I am now in the camp on using them. My clip lights come on all the time when I am at reference level and really pushing things. If I recall this fairly close, one light on the I Nuke is less than 5 watts, 2 lights around 50, three lights in the hundread watt range and 4 lights, your are 1000 plus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 (edited) yep. i am now ready to put all the panels on. this thing is stupid easy to build. love it. the only question i have so far is that Erich suggests driving the driver mounting screws directly into the stonehendge looking supports in the box, presumably with wood screws. some of you have recommended using tee bolts instead which would presumably be inserted into a gap between the supporting stonehenge pieces. thoughts? i bought a bunch of #10 tee bolts to use and and leaning that way. i'm also trying to figure out how to improve the WAF on this build. painting semigloss black is the first option but i'm considering putting a nice top on it so it looks more like an end table. however, they'll be at the front of the room by the screen so this may be a bit silly since nobody puts end tables up front and they wouldn't be holding anything. just trying to think of a way to spruce up the look a bit. hmmm.... For WAF, I would build some nice grilles. Big black drivers tend to not be wife friendly. edit: Also, for the top side edges, I would use a 1/2" roundover bit and a router. The grille frame face would have the same 1/2" roundover.None of the back or bottoms would be rounded over. Like this sort of: Edited April 7, 2015 by mustang guy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I would use a 1/2" roundover bit and a router. That really finishes it off. 1/2 or 3/8'ths. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 I would use a 1/2" roundover bit and a router. That really finishes it off. 1/2 or 3/8'ths. or veneer it in something pretty that the wife likes and matches wood on your living room. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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