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First, I take it that you've replaced all of the fuses with the correct values?

 

Secondly, you said they were stored for a few months.  I would loosen, clean, and retighten all of the screws on the crossovers.

 

Can you post some photos of your crossovers?

 

And, is it correct that BOTH speakers are acting exactly the same?  Have you checked red to red and black to black connectors from amp to speakers?

 

Just some basic stuff.....

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39 minutes ago, dtel said:

One other easy thing to check is to disconnect any connection that is NOT soldered and clean it with a little sandpaper or anything to scratch the surface of the connection.

 

Once I had bought a speaker with a non working mid horn even though the connection was very tight it would not make contact. After a little cleaning it worked fine.

The strange part was you could see no corrosion or anything out of the normal but it was not making contact even being as tight as it was to disconnect.   It was a little hard to imagine but worked great after a little cleaning. I would guess wires under a screw could do the same thing or any connection, I guess it's just a film or invisible corrosion of some sort on the metal itself causing them to loose contact ?

Thanks for the ideas...  I'll try anything t this point - I just can't figure why I'm getting a tiny bass response in each speaker...  It's NOT at "0", but it's certainly nowhere near "11"!

 

I also now discovered, after replacing the fuses, that the tiny flanges that hold the cap onto the fuseholder (where I found the FOIL!!) are gone, so after replacing the foil 'fuse', the cap will no longer hold the replacement fuse into the fuse holder...

 

The story keeps getting better and better...

 

DB

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54 minutes ago, dtel said:

One other easy thing to check is to disconnect any connection that is NOT soldered and clean it with a little sandpaper or anything to scratch the surface of the connection.

 

Once I had bought a speaker with a non working mid horn even though the connection was very tight it would not make contact. After a little cleaning it worked fine.

The strange part was you could see no corrosion or anything out of the normal but it was not making contact even being as tight as it was to disconnect.   It was a little hard to imagine but worked great after a little cleaning. I would guess wires under a screw could do the same thing or any connection, I guess it's just a film or invisible corrosion of some sort on the metal itself causing them to loose contact ?

40+ years in the electronics industry---YES THIS IS DEFINITELY POSSIBLE.:)

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@Douglas Bubbletrousers  As mentioned above....Make sure you have the bass bins wired in phase.  How does the bass sound if you hook up one cabinet at a time?  Or what if you run the balance to the left only...or to the right?  Does the bass come back?  If so, phasing, typically.

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3 hours ago, avguytx said:

@Douglas Bubbletrousers  As mentioned above....Make sure you have the bass bins wired in phase.  How does the bass sound if you hook up one cabinet at a time?  Or what if you run the balance to the left only...or to the right?  Does the bass come back?  If so, phasing, typically.

As mentioned above....Make sure you have the bass bins wired in phase.  How does the bass sound if you hook up one cabinet at a time?  The same.    Like it's being played under five feet of standing water.                        Or what if you run the balance to the left only...or to the right?  No difference.     Does the bass come back?  No...   If so, phasing, typically.

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4 hours ago, jimjimbo said:

First, I take it that you've replaced all of the fuses with the correct values?  Yes, although the tiny tabs that stick outward from the fuse cap were broken off of the cap with the foil 'fuse', so now I'm trying to find a replacement fuse cap.

 

Secondly, you said they were stored for a few months.  I would loosen, clean, and retighten all of the screws on the crossovers.  Almost all the connections in the whole system appear to be soldered...

 

Can you post some photos of your crossovers?  Photos below!

 

And, is it correct that BOTH speakers are acting exactly the same?  Have you checked red to red and black to black connectors from amp to speakers?  Yes, and even tried switching on one speaker just in case I had changed polarity one one of them

 

Just some basic stuff.....

 

IMG_0561.jpg

IMG_0562.jpg

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On 8/20/2019 at 3:11 PM, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

I also now discovered, after replacing the fuses, that the tiny flanges that hold the cap onto the fuseholder (where I found the FOIL!!) are gone, so after replacing the foil 'fuse', the cap will no longer hold the replacement fuse into the fuse holder...

 

Check this link. Looks like fuseholders I have had to repair or replace in the past.

 

https://www.newark.com/littelfuse/03420012h/fuse-holder-6-3-x-32mm-panel-mount/dp/67K1754

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Posted (edited)

Correct fuses installed.

 

Replacement fuse holder cap installed.

 

Wiring checked.

 

Speakers plugged back in.

 

Tweeters/midrange glorious.  Bass cabinets still sound like they're under five feet of water.

 

In another room...

 

Of my neighbor's house...

 

There IS sound, but if the sound level of the upper cabinet is a "10", these are at about "1" or "2"....  They ALL used to be "10"...

 

Thanks again for your ideas!

Edited by Douglas Bubbletrousers

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Have you tried bypassing the crossovers all together and just running from amp to woofer? You will do no harm by running full range to the woofer for testing. That should at least help narrow down where the issue lies.

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Have you measured the woofers with a multimeter?  You will need to disconnect them from the crossover.

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On 8/20/2019 at 2:23 PM, babadono said:

40+ years in the electronics industry---YES THIS IS DEFINITELY POSSIBLE.:)

Just an hobbyist here and it was hard to understand this could happen. The connections were so tight I had to hold each side as to not break anything to disconnect and it still was not making a connection, it was hard to imagine.

What it was doing was not working with  an occasional trace of sound but very irregular, I guess it made a little contact with vibrations while testing but 95% dead.

 

Myself if used in a house I would disconnect the fuse on a Khorn, my ears would tell me it's plenty loud enough way before a fuse would be needed, but that's just me. 

 

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dtel is correct. For testing purposes, the fuse is not needed and the crossover section for the woofer (series inductor, mostly) is not needed.

 

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1 hour ago, capo72 said:

Have you tried bypassing the crossovers all together and just running from amp to woofer? You will do no harm by running full range to the woofer for testing. That should at least help narrow down where the issue lies.

 

Just to make sure (I'm new at this), by running "from amp to woofer," do you mean by disconnecting the connector cables that go to the upper cabinet (tweeter and midrange)?

 

If that's what you mean, then yes, I have tried that, and I get the sound that I described as sounding 'under water.'  I understand that the bass speakers are going to sound "bassy", but I would think that the tubas, string basses and timpani would sound like they should, but EVERYTHING sounds like it's 'under water.'

 

If you mean that I should disconnect the electrical devices inside the bass part of the cabinet (a 'big-***' capacitor - I'm guessing - and the other item (not even sure what that is...), then 'no,' I haven't tried that yet.

 

Thanks again everybody for the ideas.  I'm certainly learning a lot!

 

DB

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1 hour ago, jimjimbo said:

Have you measured the woofers with a multimeter?  You will need to disconnect them from the crossover.

 

I was hesitant to try this, as everything in the whole system from top to bottom, including the spade terminals on the woofer, is soldered!

 

Is there any way to do this without unsoldering anything?  I've got a multimeter and a soldering iron, and I CAN do it...  Just that, in MY life, Murphy and his Law seem to be The Rule, and not the exception, if you catch my drift...

 

Thanks again everybody - I appreciate it.

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3 minutes ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

If you mean that I should disconnect the electrical devices inside the bass part of the cabinet (a 'big-***' capacitor - I'm guessing - and the other item (not even sure what that is...), then 'no,' I haven't tried that yet.

Pretty sure @capo72 means bypass even the parts inside the woofer chamber and go right to the woofer. And disconnect the parts inside which are a capacitor and an inductor. And you can also do as jimjimbo suggested while they're disconnected and measure the woofer voice coils.

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24 minutes ago, PrestonTom said:

dtel is correct. For testing purposes, the fuse is not needed and the crossover section for the woofer (series inductor, mostly) is not needed.

 

So I get that the big white cylinder is a capacitor, but is the device that looks like it's made of wire wrapped in brown waxed paper (with the three sided silver metal frame) the 'inductor"?

 

Thx!

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1 minute ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

So I get that the big white cylinder is a capacitor, but is the device that looks like it's made of wire wrapped in brown waxed paper (with the three sided silver metal frame) the 'inductor"?

 

Thx!

Yep.

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