glens Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Agreed. Though there is perhaps one more thing to try for cheap. A 60 Hz tone should get cleanly through the crossover to the woofer and is both easy to find and easy to measure the voltage of. In order to check the low-pass section without a test bench, I'd be inclined to "play" (only) some hum to the speaker and compare the AC voltage levels between the crossover input and woofer output. Should be very nearly the same both places. If there's substantial difference then I'd get the test bench involved. Also, prior to disassembling the speaker further I'd get a calibrated mike (gonna need it anyway) and run some sweeps just to see if I was really hearing what I thought I was. If I'd been listening to, say, old Cerwin Vegas and switched to something else, then thought the bass was lacking, well, it might not actually be... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Desoldering was bad advice. You could have easily damaged the VC leads or the insulation on the VC itself. The capacitor in parallel in the low pass part of the filter has zero effect on a DCR measurement. The coil in series would be minimal. If you haven't changed out the batteries in your meter(s) in a while, do it now. Make sure you zero out the meter before taking the measurement. You can take the DCR measurement using the unused terminals (tabs) on the woofer(s). No need to desolder anything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 1 hour ago, Deang said: Desoldering was bad advice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Lmao. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas Bubbletrousers Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 4 hours ago, Deang said: Desoldering was bad advice. You could have easily damaged the VC leads or the insulation on the VC itself. The capacitor in parallel in the low pass part of the filter has zero effect on a DCR measurement. The coil in series would be minimal. If you haven't changed out the batteries in your meter(s) in a while, do it now. Make sure you zero out the meter before taking the measurement. You can take the DCR measurement using the unused terminals (tabs) on the woofer(s). No need to desolder anything! I will give it a try, but the digital meter is brand new with brand new batteries, and while the analog one is NOT new, it, too, has a fairly new battery.... They were both giving me the same reading.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 Where are you located. Maybe someone can visit. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikebse2a3 Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 If you connect a 1.5 v battery to the woofer does it move the cone in/out relatively freely.. ? Just thinking resistance measured seems a little off so if woofers were overdriven the voice coil could be damaged and somewhat frozen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glens Posted August 24, 2019 Share Posted August 24, 2019 How/where were they stored? Any chance there are critter nests blocking some passages? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas Bubbletrousers Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 20 hours ago, WMcD said: Where are you located. Maybe someone can visit. Seattle area... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas Bubbletrousers Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 19 hours ago, glens said: How/where were they stored? Any chance there are critter nests blocking some passages? Clean as a whistle. I've got got both bottom enclosures open right now, and not so much as a spider web inside..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glens Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 Dang! That would've been easy and cheap were it the problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas Bubbletrousers Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 20 hours ago, mikebse2a3 said: If you connect a 1.5 v battery to the woofer does it move the cone in/out relatively freely.. ? Just thinking resistance measured seems a little off so if woofers were overdriven the voice coil could be damaged and somewhat frozen. That would seem to be a possibility... Especially since the wrong fuses were in them (but what do I know...?) Haven't tried that yet. I will try it... Thanks again to all for all the ideas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang_flht Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 Here's another tip if you dismount your K33E, try to gently push the membrane on the side of the dome dust cover: if you hear a sound of rubbing is that the coil rubs in the air gap. If so, you can repair the speaker or change it, if possible make it on the 2 speakers 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang_flht Posted August 27, 2019 Share Posted August 27, 2019 to understand look and especially listen to this video, especially around 0: 22s until 0: 28s 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas Bubbletrousers Posted February 9, 2020 Share Posted February 9, 2020 If anyone is still 'out there..." Sorry I went dark... Life 'happened'... First grandchild born, etc., etc. Six months later, I'm looking at the speakers, and I'm right back at Square One... Figured 'screw it!' it MUST be the woofers, so I invested in a pair of Crites best. Installed, double checked polarity/continuity on speaker cables, etc. Fired the system up, and it's exactly the same as before... The midrange and tweeter are bright and clear, and there's virtually nothing from the woofer. Just seems like it's 20% of what it should be (and was). Hooked up a different amp, and no difference... "Test bench' recommendations go way over my head.... I can screw/unscrew, unsolder/resolder, and cuss a lot, but the advanced electronic analysis is not a possibility... Any other ideas...? What am I missing? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechEngVic Posted February 10, 2020 Share Posted February 10, 2020 20 hours ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said: If anyone is still 'out there..." Sorry I went dark... Life 'happened'... First grandchild born, etc., etc. Six months later, I'm looking at the speakers, and I'm right back at Square One... Figured 'screw it!' it MUST be the woofers, so I invested in a pair of Crites best. Installed, double checked polarity/continuity on speaker cables, etc. Fired the system up, and it's exactly the same as before... The midrange and tweeter are bright and clear, and there's virtually nothing from the woofer. Just seems like it's 20% of what it should be (and was). Hooked up a different amp, and no difference... "Test bench' recommendations go way over my head.... I can screw/unscrew, unsolder/resolder, and cuss a lot, but the advanced electronic analysis is not a possibility... Any other ideas...? What am I missing? Thanks! If your amp is good and the wire/connector path from amp to speaker is correct, then your problem has to be the crossover. If you previously bypassed the crossover and wired directly to the woofer, I have to ask: Was the crossover still connected? If it was and you still got low sound, you might have a short in the crossover. With the new woofers, I'm assuming the wires are no longer soldered: Disconnect the crossover from the woofer and wire directly to the woofer, amp directly to woofer with nothing else connected and try the sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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