glens Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 1 minute ago, DizRotus said: Why’re you saying that? Claude had mentioned in passing the use of Monster wire inside the cabinets and my question to him was also regarding internal wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 Read the post you quoted slowly out loud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glens Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 Which post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 35 minutes ago, glens said: It's not my intent to devolve this into a wire thread, but we're not talking about "runs" greater than 2 feet here... I love whyyerr threads and I think some consideration should be given to the very serious import of doing things right. I think there are a couple of things to think of here.First I endorse the use of high density metal conductors. You see what many in the audiophile world don’t understand is that the space in between the interstices of atoms is larger or smaller depending on the element in question. So your pure Platinum speaker cable is a top choice to make. Why you might ask and I am happy to answer. Have you ever heard a pop when your system comes on? This is more than likely due to electron puddling where the wire dips and the interstices allow for this electron puddling to happen. You see there is an accumulation of new fresh flowing electrons and then the puddled ones all propelled along at the same time and that surge from the puddled + new does this until the puddled ones are bled off. Of course denser metal stops a percentage of this but still in all you DO have to think of conductor slope. I have found the very best answer to be to have the amp, assuming the amp to be the very last item in the circuit which does then feed directly into the speaker cable, must be elevated above the speaker with at least a 10 degree slope angle going down towards the speaker. No dips or sags anywhere and how you do that does not matter. Personally I find acrylic tubes in decorator colors work best and look good doing it. I have found through serious research that a slope angle higher than 30 percent will unduly accelerate low frequency note electrons as heavier things are more affected by slope angle so be careful how steep you make your conductor runs. Also your crossovers, if there are any, need to be moved to the very top of the inside of the cabinet to maintain slope integrity. In this case if your slope to driver angle is greater than 30 degrees you might have to run the leads in a spiral down fashion on the inside cabinet surfaces accordingly. Once you combine correct conductor metal with correct slope you will find your sound to be flowing and vibrant and none of the accumulated electron problems will arise. One word of caution though on the choice of acrylic tube. Stay with the clear tubes and not the tubes with dark opaque hues to them as they will color your sound in a negative fashion. 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 If why’re is too subtle your post above will do a total fly-over. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff. Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 ...why I outta... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glens Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 8 hours ago, DizRotus said: Read the post you quoted slowly out loud. Yep. Cleared my noggin by a country mile. Kudos! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decooney Posted January 30, 2020 Share Posted January 30, 2020 SOUND? Any takers - Great, read through most of this thread back to December - lots of talk about physical design and components changes. Noting new cabinet, porting, all new drivers, elevated cost, etc...okay. I see they ran them with a Cary SLI-80 at RMAF, I had one, the amp is no slouch with efficient speakers. Wondering if anyone has actually broken them in for a while and listened to them with a few different amplifiers and compared to former models, H3. As a former professional and later hobbyist speaker builder, this is a completely different speaker now from what it seems. >>Comparing to H2, H3, what's DIFFERENT about the SOUND - for better or worse<< -High Freq? -Midrange? -Mid Bass? -Lower Bass? -Sound Stage? -Tone change? -other? ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automojo Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 (edited) I think the internal wiring can add subtle details, and higher quality wiring=g resists corrosion/tarnishing. Rebuilt more then a few speakers-and at times-especially with my 2 pairs of highly modded ESS AMT3's, (clean, sealed/tight bass down to 25hz with woofer(now 9mm xmax-lower inductance) cab upgrades) used larger gauge wiring when able, and at the very least tinned hookup wire-available up to 14 gauge wire. With the added internal bracing, internal ceramic coating, and woofer upgrades they now tip the scales @ 135lbs ea. FIY those cork rubber blocks under the speakers-I got the idea from the Stereophile review of the Forte III. These needed 4 blocks, not 3 like the Forte's. I like the tweeks to the Heresy IV, very appealing IMHO. Any they weigh only 45lbs :)!! And IMHO the changes to the midrange, tweeter phase plug, and crossover changes are the biggest improvements to the Heresy. Sure the bass was extended, but the III's could easily get into the mid 40's with room gain. Try a sweep..... Regardless, I think the rear port had more to due with overall voicing, then merely bass extension. In regards to the post about sizing. Given the same woofer type-(the Heresy's woofer and a EBP that allows sealed or ported boxes)-ported properly will require a LARGER box vs sealed operation. I always liked the idea of the Heresy, just never could get past the poor driver integration-and uneven dispersion-never has a issue with the bass extension, because if you placed them properly they were fine for most music-IMHO. The III's did little to address these issues-IMHO-titanium drivers-nice-but kinda of a patch... This new model finally seems to have tackled this issue head on!! Pretty amazing they specifically explained how each of these earlier drawbacks were corrected. I'm going to audition a pair shortly, but if they have corrected theses issues-this will be my first new speaker purchase since the early 90's (KG 5.5's) And I have built, and modded many since then. MY 1980's ESS Heil PS1220's were sold to acquire the Klipsch-I regretted years later, and started modding/building my own speakers. While the bass won't be sealed, a correctly ported speaker such as this should come close-I can't imagine them spending all the time and effort, and sacrificing large amount of bass transient response for 1/4 octave of bass extension. It would quickly come back to haunt them. I think they could be a fun alternative to my AMT3's, and perhaps rival my MOJO modded AMT3's smooth, big, wide open dynamic range. Sure they won't dig as deep-but frankly 99% music doesn't need it. Edited February 2, 2020 by Automojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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