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Topping PA5 is incredible.


CoryGillmore

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46 minutes ago, Marvel said:

But how does it sound? Now I use a new Induction Stove instead. 🤣

I use a pair of De’Longhi 1500 watt monoblocks.

They are perfectly silent and impart a nice warmth to the overall listening experience.

They are switchable between 600/900/1500watts.

I’m not sure if that’s some sort of class A or A/B thing or what, but all modes seem to work pretty well.

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3 hours ago, henry4841 said:

But Claude, class A is still class A. I can enjoy one of my TPA3255 builds as well but class A is where my heart lies. The electronic geek in me understands it is the purest form of amplification. 

Yep, because the guys that had them cranked them up with too much power. The have High Signal to noise ratio and sound as good as My Hypex on horns. I don't use much power from either one, but the PA-5 was 1/5th the price, so I got 3.

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8 hours ago, Invidiosulus said:

I use a pair of De’Longhi 1500 watt monoblocks.

They are perfectly silent and impart a nice warmth to the overall listening experience.

They are switchable between 600/900/1500watts.

I’m not sure if that’s some sort of class A or A/B thing or what, but all modes seem to work pretty well.

ridiculous power for horns. Bad choice for S/N.

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9 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

Yep, because the guys that had them cranked them up with too much power. The have High Signal to noise ratio and sound as good as My Hypex on horns. I don't use much power from either one, but the PA-5 was 1/5th the price, so I got 3.

What I have found on my tube journey on S/N is 60db down from fundamental signal is sufficient for quite operation on my LaScala's. As you know SS amplifiers are generally going to be much better when tested on the bench. The last SS amplifier I checked was the SE V-Fet amplifier designed by Nelson Pass and it was something like 100db down from the fundamental signal on my distortion analyzer. Significantly better when tested but then 60db is good enough for my old ears. I believe there is always going to be a demand for SET tube amplifiers among a select niche in the audiophile world. What they like about Class A amplifiers, SET tube amplifiers are operated in class A by the way, is the audio signal is not manipulated at all or in other words left pure all through the amplifier not affected by the components making up the amplification part of the amplifier. In class D, and other forms of amplification, the audio signal is broken down and put back together in some way. Hey it works and can sound great but the audio signal is not as pure as in class A where the audio signal is left alone as much as possible. All this means nothing though when it comes to what one hears. If one likes what they hears why worry about what someone else says. It's entertainment.

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23 hours ago, henry4841 said:

But Claude, class A is still class A. I can enjoy one of my TPA3255 builds as well but class A is where my heart lies. The electronic geek in me understands it is the purest form of amplification. 

Of course. I would rather do class A than Tubes, even thought they are both primarily Space Heaters. Only in the winter, though. I did both for years. There is not argument for preference here, just the facts.

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9 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

Of course. I would rather do class A than Tubes, even thought they are both primarily Space Heaters. Only in the winter, though.

 

9 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

Of course. I would rather do class A than Tubes, even thought they are both primarily Space Heaters. Only in the winter, though.

 

11 hours ago, henry4841 said:

What I have found on my tube journey on S/N is 60db down from fundamental signal is sufficient for quite operation on my LaScala's. As you know SS amplifiers are generally going to be much better when tested on the bench. The last SS amplifier I checked was the SE V-Fet amplifier designed by Nelson Pass and it was something like 100db down from the fundamental signal on my distortion analyzer. Significantly better when tested but then 60db is good enough for my old ears. I believe there is always going to be a demand for SET tube amplifiers among a select niche in the audiophile world. What they like about Class A amplifiers, SET tube amplifiers are operated in class A by the way, is the audio signal is not manipulated at all or in other words left pure all through the amplifier not affected by the components making up the amplification part of the amplifier. In class D, and other forms of amplification, the audio signal is broken down and put back together in some way. Hey it works and can sound great but the audio signal is not as pure as in class A where the audio signal is left alone as much as possible. All this means nothing though when it comes to what one hears. If one likes what they hears why worry about what someone else says. It's entertainment.

PURITY is a relative term. Class A and especially SET add DISTORTION, quite euphonic. The issue of dissasembly and re-assembly is not part of the equation when you get Straight Wire With Gain coupled with Load Independence, (Hypex and Purifi).

 

The SETs are too fussy about load dependence which is IGNORED when talking about Purity by the PURE definition of Straight Wire with gain. It very pleasant distortion with lack of bass. I would never use SETs on a woofer section, but on mid/high, it's heavenly euphonic distortion.

 

The emotional testing part coupled with personal preference is irrelevant, and the high end testers of today (like Ahmir at Audio Science Review) prove me right (he has later/better gear than John Atkinson of Sterophool, BTW).

 

All amps are good past a certain point, yet the industry ignores IM Distortion, which is 1,000 times more than amps in loudspeakers. You need the whole picture in audio, not your own personal slice of the thick pizza or Cake corner piece while ignoring the rest.

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  • 2 months later...

TLDR but has anyone else had reoccurring issues with hiss/static with their Topping?  My first one made it about 6 months before I had to ship it back after both channels started having static issues.  The RMA I got back (after waiting 3 months or so to get back from China) lasted about the same amount of time and now my left channel has static but not the right (yet).  Just curious if anyone else has had these issues?

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On 11/9/2023 at 2:51 PM, Kalifornian said:

TLDR but has anyone else had reoccurring issues with hiss/static with their Topping?   Just curious if anyone else has had these issues?

 

 Had a channel mysteriously quit on me on one of mine (I had 3 at one point) so I sent it back for a refund 

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  • 1 month later...

Haven't tried the PA5, but have used both the Ayima A07($60 at Amazon!) and Fosi V3 3255 amps with my La Scala's, and they are a couple of the best bargains in audio presently, IMO. I prefer both of them to my McIntosh tube amps(30, 225, 240), which is something I never thought I would admit. 

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5 hours ago, svberger said:

Haven't tried the PA5, but have used both the Ayima A07($60 at Amazon!) and Fosi V3 3255 amps with my La Scala's, and they are a couple of the best bargains in audio presently, IMO. I prefer both of them to my McIntosh tube amps(30, 225, 240), which is something I never thought I would admit. 

Close enough. I use 4 1/2 Ayima A07's for surrounds, and a PA5 for mains in HT.. I also use a PA-5, both version 1's downstairs in 2 channel. Zero failures and I never shut them off! Only the pre amps are turned off. Zero failures since day one.

Ignore the naysayers out there. They probably used them on inefficient, direct radiators, that draw too much power and got them to flame off! Horn guys never worry since we hardly ever draw more than 1 Watt!

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On 11/10/2023 at 6:09 PM, jjptkd said:

 

 Had a channel mysteriously quit on me on one of mine (I had 3 at one point) so I sent it back for a refund 

Nothing "mysterious" about a failure, unless you are an E Tech. trying to find the cause. You could have sent it back and waited for a version II. The best thing about Topping as a company, they are really quick at fixing their mistakes and for a lousy $250 ($100 less than I paid for my 3 versions 1's) of Inflated Cash (where a US dollar is now a dime) you could have a great power amp that trumps all the class A and or a/b amps of the world, putting out less than a 100 watts. Except, of course the $3,000 benchmark if you prefer to spend 12 times the money for something physically larger with only bragging rights vs. performance.

 

There is just too much negativity in our society and Internet Forums are no exception. Add to that, Heritage Klipscheads still have their Minds in the 70's when it comes to realizing that a US Dollar is now only a Dime.

 

So, on top of that, we are all a lot of Cheapskate Whiners. Chinese EE's give us incredible electronics for 1/3, or less, than the price you would pay if it were made here, yet y'all still whine just like the rest of the cheapa$$ Audio Communities out there.

 

Heritage and Pro Klipsch Speakers are still the exact same price they always were, relative to a working middle class person's buying power. They are just a clear indication of the FACT that a dollar is now a dime.

 

PWK would be totally amazed at how good these TI 3255 Chip Amps are. I wish he had lived to experience them.

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I have 5 Cornwall 1s circa 1982 - and the following sources - turntable, CD, AM-FM tuner and possibly a Blu Ray disc machine plus external DAC.    I also plan to look at adding a new  Klipsch horn loaded subwoofer after they become available.   

 

I am looking for guidance on which preamps / AVRs would properly drive the Topping or FOSI amps and where I could find a guide to help me with configuring my new system with the Topping or Fosi amp additions.   I currently do not use streaming services for audio --- I have a fairly large vinyl and CD collection.    Also today I am using a modded Hafler DH-200 amp with a Adcom preamp and Sony tuner on my two channel setup with a Kenwood KD500 concrete resin base TT with a Formula IV tonearm and a Sonus Red cartridge (also a Audio Technics VM95 micro line cartridge) with a Sony ES CD player.    My other system includes Technics SA receiver and CD- DVD player, Harmon Kardon amp and Velodyne subwoofer.    I'd like to add the new amps to both systems.   

 

Oh the DAC I use is the SCHITT Modius...

 

Any help is appreciated ....

 

 

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7 hours ago, Vahorns said:

 

I am looking for guidance on which preamps / AVRs would properly drive the Topping or FOSI amps  

  the Topping PA5 amps have an extremely high failure rate  , these are cheap amps from China  built for the short term +  they are not repairable   ,   once the warranty expires , you're 329$  for the PA5 II PLUS  -the Fosi are even lower quality  .  I would recommend you to avoid these 2 amps  

 

  you can buy a high end Yamaha A-S 301  60wpc @8 Ohms for 350$  including an exceptional preamp or a Yamaha A-S 501 for 550 $  85 wpc @8 Ohms  , both these stereo amps will last  a lifetime of worry free operation .

 

https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/hifi_components/a-s301/index.html

https://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio_visual/hifi_components/a-s501/specs.html#product-tabs

 

 

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1 hour ago, Vahorns said:

I have 5 Cornwall 1s circa 1982 - and the following sources - turntable, CD, AM-FM tuner and possibly a Blu Ray disc machine plus external DAC.    I also plan to look at adding a new  Klipsch horn loaded subwoofer after they become available.   

 

I am looking for guidance on which preamps / AVRs   I'd like to add the new amps to both systems.   

 

Oh the DAC I use is the SCHITT Modius...

 

Any help is appreciated ....

 

 

There is no better value than a used Yamaha CX-A5000, with ESS Sabre DAC chips to use with PA5 II's in mains and Ayima 07's for the rest. The Yamaha was $2,500 new. Got 2 myself as refurbs for $1,300. Now you can get one for a lousy $500. YPAO room eq rocks with one mike reading. You will thank me later, I guarantee it.

 

Cornwalls are Fab and you may not need subs with them for music. Great 5.0 setup you will have.

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7 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

Topping as a company, they are really quick at fixing their mistakes and for a lousy $250 you could have a great power amp that trumps all the class A and or a/b amps of the world, putting out less than a 100 watts. Except, of course the $3,000 benchmark if you prefer to spend 12 times the money for something physically larger with only bragging rights vs. performance.

 

 That's taking it a bit far these amps are decent- and impressive for what they are but I found them lifeless compared to my Carver tube amps, just no where near as enjoyable. Just because they spec better than most amps doesn't mean it sounds better sorry. 

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16 hours ago, jjptkd said:

 

 That's taking it a bit far these amps are decent- and impressive for what they are but I found them lifeless compared to my Carver tube amps, just no where near as enjoyable. Just because they spec better than most amps doesn't mean it sounds better sorry. 

Another opinion concerning Tube Amps, not class D Chip amps. fish out of water..............

MY Qualifier for amps is NEUTRALITY given by SINAD testing. Valves have terrible numbers in comparison, which means they are a preferred distortion over neutrality. Nothing wrong with that preference if it floats your ears.

 

I had all those in my teens, 20's and 30's. I like the new Millenium better.

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