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I'm hoping I can use the Niles DPS-1 switcher, although according to the specs it will handle up to 350W and my 1090 specs out @ 380W...shouldn't be a problem though.

I had planned on using the tube amp mostly for CD listening. I already have a bypass CD profile in my 1098 (and a 5ch surround CD mode for the wife =). Currently I have the speakers biwired, and I am not sure whether or not I can keep this config. My guess is no. Since the 1090 is separate from my 1095. I'll just power down the 1095 and switch over to tube action...that was my thought process anyway.

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If you are looking at the upgrades for a Dynaco ST-70 you can check out the following companies for information on the kits that are available. I forget which one Craig likes the best, but there are several options. Links are provided below for three of the options.

Whether you can do the work yourself or not, these links give you a good idea what can be done to improve the standard amp.

http://www.welbornelabs.com/st70.htm

http://www.curcioaudio.com/dynadr_3.htm#DYNACO%20STEREO%2070%20POWER%20AMPLIFIER

http://www.triodeel.com/dynaco.html

Don

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Guy,

Does your power tranny on the ST-70 run really hot? Mine is too hot. Thing is, I'm getting about 15 volts higher than I should out of the mains. Intead of 360-360 I am getting about 385 or more. With my line voltage should be at about 370 for each side. My heaters run at almost exactly what the line variation should give me, which is about 6.5vac.

I think I am up for a new power transformer.

Marvel

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NOSMy mother had heart failure and they put a stint in a few years back. Good luck to your Dad.

I probably wont do anything with this until after the Holidays, but would like to talk afterwards. I have several other home projects slated for the Holiday break. In the meantime, I'm just gathering as much information as possible.

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Mark,

Maybe that long. The top is okay, but the laminations are borderline. I was thinking of replacing it, which means all I would have left are the output transformers. Maybe I should put it in a larger chassis while I'm at it. Great learning experience anyway. If I have one tube that I can't get to bias correctly, will that make this unbalanced enough to cause it to heat up?

The mains voltages are too high for sure (385-385).

Marvel

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On 12/21/2004 7:15:29 AM JewishAMerPrince wrote:

Cjgeraci

I'm about to purchase a Jolida JD-202A and have Underwood do level 1 mods on it. I noticed your gear list includes a Jolida 100 with Underwood, and was wondering what you thought of both the Jolida amps and Underwood's mods.

I'll be teaming this up with a pair of Chorus IIs which I hope to buy tonight.

Jerry Rappaport

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I think you would like solid state amplification better with the Chorus II's. You need somthing to really grab a hold of those big bass woofers. My Forte II's sound awsome with my B&K Preamp and Power amp used for home theater and stereo playback. I tried the Forte's with my Antique Sound Labs AQ1003DT and I did not like the anemic bass. Bass would be better, cleaner, tighter with a solid state system that has some type of tone control.

McIntosh 6900 would be the ultimate in my book. B&K is also verygood with its remote tone controlls.

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aviserated

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I think you would like solid state amplification better with the Chorus II's. You need somthing to really grab a hold of those big bass woofers. My Forte II's sound awsome with my B&K Preamp and Power amp used for home theater and stereo playback. I tried the Forte's with my Antique Sound Labs AQ1003DT and I did not like the anemic bass. Bass would be better, cleaner, tighter with a solid state system that has some type of tone control.

McIntosh 6900 would be the ultimate in my book. B&K is also verygood with its remote tone controlls.

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It depends on the amp. I have a Sonic Frontiers Power 1, 55 wpc, 6550 output tubes and that thing is clear and clean and will shake the walls with bass. You probably did not have a good match with your amp. I have Forte 1s and no tone controls.

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On 12/21/2004 1:33:12 PM aviserated wrote:

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I think you would like solid state amplification better with the Chorus II's. You need somthing to really grab a hold of those big bass woofers. My Forte II's sound awsome with my B&K Preamp and Power amp used for home theater and stereo playback. I tried the Forte's with my Antique Sound Labs AQ1003DT and I did not like the anemic bass. Bass would be better, cleaner, tighter with a solid state system that has some type of tone control.

McIntosh 6900 would be the ultimate in my book. B&K is also verygood with its remote tone controlls.

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Maybe better than that tube amp. But lets not lump all tube amps into that category - depends on the tube amp. I now run my Center Vert. Cornwall off of a solid state NAD, and it does a great job of controlling the woofer. But, both my Marantz 8B and Dynaco Mark IIIs provide nice, tight bass response with my Belles and they also did so when running the Cornwall.

You can run the larger woofers cleanly and tightly with tubes - not all tube amps have anemic or shallow bass.

Also, while I agree that having tone controls is helpful, it is not always necessary. Mark's Peach provides excellent bass response without any adjustments.

Carl.

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Mark,

The PS is new (Curcio under chassis model). Since I am at work, I will check it out again tonight. I calculated the voltages from 117 to the 120 or so we have at our house and get about 15 VAC per side higher than that. Should be 360-360@117VAC. With our house voltage at 120+ I should get 370-370. Instead I get 385-385.

I will pull the leads tonight and check with no load. Or can I just pull the 5AR4 to check it?

Thanks Mark

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