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Or at least wipe the dust away...

Love it!

Sorry for popping this up back but I've been researching my problem with XMOS drivers that are "the only ones we have" (c) Klipsch. So, only thing is that those XMOS drivers are signed but the signature is already out of date. I agree that Microsoft provides good drivers for listening music, nothing huge there. Still, I was baffled that I cannot get drivers provided from company like Klipsch while there's so many quite small companies who still try to get most of their equipment with frequent driver updates. So, only two options are on the table if you want to use Klipsch's "only drivers they have to provide" (even if they could just update their signing on the drivers, phew): A) you use your product without control panel (for example buffers etc.) and just use what Windows provides after you have fixed the DFU warning in the device manager B) you have to disable Secure Boot from your BIOS and only after that it's possible to use the option seven in boot options to disable Signature Enforcement, install drivers and use them. I got them working like that but while being pretty precise about my security options while using Windows, I just had to swallow my XMOS fantasies and continue using the Microsoft drivers and they are good for listening music don't get me wrong, for music production and well, using the options I should have in my hands when having this product on my table, they are not available. Just to inform people who are about to buy this product and use it under Windows 11 with Secure Boot enabled which I guess is required to install it in the first place (don't know about earlier Windows versions).

so buyer takes their pick white or black and you keep the other?

DUH! Sorry I missed that very important detail in your post.

@Marvel I think Rachael Price could make a lot of songs magical! This is one that I had on yesterday, sometimes I go through my records in this thread. It can soothe my frazzled nerves with the fact that I'm having to re-buy a lot of what I already own but probably is stolen from me out of hatred (from those "good people") that I wasn't born like them. Yep, get angry then I have to move on,. Help me Dan Dare!! *This one had to go a bit more loud. My fave by him... possibly

It always amazes me that people can't even pick up the garbage around an item they're trying to sell.

Been unable to use my pc since it updated a couple days ago msft winblows destroyed my Eset AV, and it took hours to get that app up and running again. I trust Eset any day over msft. @MicroMara has been hitting the vinyl thread with no genre untouched lately! This one's for him and it's a bit different from the previous few. Mid 70s Coliseum & Stadium Rock w Soul would be a fitting genre for this one. I believe George has one with the original cover though! Another seriously underrated band from way back!

I could see that happening. In my case, the problem moved when switching the compression driver to the other speaker. I think that rules out anything but the K55v itself.

I have been made aware by many (including Mike) that the room itself is part of the sound of the system. I appreciate the advice and my plan is to change one thing at a time in the system and observe the impact. There is additional furniture and sound-absorbing things going into the space over the next year that will influence the system sound. I was thinking about adding thick curtains to some of the walls, windows and doors to cut down on sound reflection. Will let you know how it goes. @mikebse2a3 gives great advice!

Big shoutout to JeffC, found this thread after searching trying to find a solution to why the speakers stopped working with sub ok. Replaced c22 capacitor as recommended, but now I have the opposite problem: L and R speakers working but no bass from the sub. Everything plugged in, but almost looks burnt on the circuit board in r30 and g1. Not sure if this is the issue or even fixable since it’s the board and not a wire or capacitor. Anyone else with sub issue after replacing c22 for speakers?

Thanks kindly; I hear you saying I should do some careful listening. WRT bi-amping, one is required to bi-amp these speakers as they have a DSP. I've been playing with different amps (and preamps too).

I have a pair. I will recommend you do not use the Ti diaphragms unless yours have failed and OEM is unavailable. Use quality film and foil caps (expect $$$). I used Solen metalized caps and find there is a subtle harshness or edginess to higher tones. It took a while to notice, but now I don't like the effect. You might find the metalized caps can be used in place of the woofer EQ cap to save money with little impact to sound quality. That room has my H IVs so the KG2s aren't used much and I have little motivation to change them.

@Marvel direct drive function ON kinda maybe?!

That scares me for sure. These guys wouldn't know how to handle two of us. I'm NOT sure I could handle two of us.😂 It's truly a delima anymore. Ya know just what ya want to hear then something else pops up so ya go dig that one out. THEN ya have to hear either one you saw or one in now ANOTHER pile. I see piles in your future brother! Sad though when you forget which pile you "think" it's in. That's another story altogether. Hey @dirtmudd figure out a Zappa song to help hin understand that big picture. 😂

I just purchased the Aw 650 indoor/outdoor speaks for my porch. Didn’t realize power went through the 12/2 speaker wire from receiver ( duh). So, I’m going to purchase a mini receiver (300 Watt x 2) but not certain the voltage will be enough. I’m considering “Fosi Audio BT20A Pro 300W x2 TPA3255 Bluetooth 5.0 Home Audio Stereo 2 Channel Amplifier Receiver Mini Hi-Fi Class D Upgraded Integrated Amp for Speakers with Bass Treble Control” (https://fosiaudio.com/products/bluetooth-amplifier-2-channel-stereo-amp-receiver-class-d-amplifier-for-home-audio-system-fosi-audio-bt20a-updated) Do y’all believe that will sufficient??? thank you

That tape isn't threaded correctly.

Look at the edge plys on the back for the serial number stamped into the cabinets. Listen to them for a while, before changing anything. I had one late '60s H700 (a '67 and a '68, I think) that needed new capicitors because it sounded a little dull and recessed and another one that did not. If you have no rubbing, buzzing, or ringing from any driver, they are good and need only to play music until they can't.

Maybe totally unrelated but.........I discerned a buzz in my 402 mid/high left side UG Jube speaker. This was at idle "no signal". It is masked when almost any level of music is played. I will not say that I never noticed it before but I am fine tuning and trying to squeeze the best performance possible and it was easy to ignore in the past. I tracked it down to the in-wall wiring going to the left speaker. The electrician that ran the wires must have run some power wiring along side the speaker wire for too long a distance. When I swapped out the in-wall speaker wire with externally run wire the problem is gone.

I've detected that one of my Khorns (early 80's) has a nasty buzz between 230 and 400hz. Not only is there a buzz, but also a noticeable volume difference. In other frequencies, they are pretty much the same, with no buzz. I swapped the K55v drivers and the problem followed the driver. I replaced the rubber gasket between driver and horn. Problem remained. I see that Crites has diaphragms available. Is that my likely path to solving this? I've replaced diaphragms before, so I'm not scared of the project, unless there is something uniquely challenging? I've read some forum posts that suggest sound quality improves with new diaphragms, being that the old are brittle by now. Anyone confirm this? Thanks for any direction or input.

A steal at that price!

Of the options listed, I’ve heard many good things about matching Klipsch with NAD and Cambridge Audio.

Are you sure that 6 isn’t a G or an S? Post a pic of the tag.

Two excellent solo performances with Hour of Power choir Maynard

Recent gem by Gaither Vocal Band Maynard