PrestonTom

Did the KLF30's have material inside them to begin with? The 10% rule of thumb, comes as a general statement form JBL engineers. This was for vented cabinets (as the KLF is) using about 1 inch thick material on the 5 sides (nothing on the baffle side). The material can be pressed fiberglass (eg, heating duct insulation boards or insulation blankets, about 3 lbs /cu ft) this is NOT fluffy fiberglass or closed cell foam rubber), or you might substitute Roxul (safe n sound) which is affordable and readily available at Home Depot etc. There are other materials also, along with over-priced stuff that comes with a great deal of folklore about its supposed benefits. My own general comments are some of the guys are going overboard on the bracing. The braces do not need to be massive 2x4s. Lighter stock will work fine if it is well placed and well attached. Additionally, The venting geometry (cross sectional area and length is dependent on the tuning and cabinet volume, and the desired alignment along with the electro-mechanical properties of the driver). That should be what determines whether the cabinet needs to be "larger" or not.

If you use the right stuffing it can actually make the cabinets "seem 10% larger". I would follow the Klipsch recommendations.

Well, of course the choice of drivers is different. I assume the recommended DSP would correspondingly differ. The heart of the Jubilee is the bass bin, I doubt the construction differs between and home and cinema. I am not sure what you are suggesting -------------- Okay, I see you guys are talking about the yet to be released "consumer version". It was hinted at by Roy Delgado in a youtube interview . As far as I know, there have been no details provided. It should be exciting, but I hope any "extras" don't make it unaffordable.

Most of these are direct shipped from the factory. I don't think there is any issue about a "shortage"

There is another angle. The La Scala can make a nice center channel (ditch the amp). Every once in a while folks are looking for singles of heritage models. The damage is fixable and the crossover can have some newer caps put in and the diodes yanked out.

My former advisor used to tell me: If it ain't broke don't fix it. As for the self-adhesive tape, I can't imagine that it would hurt, but then again I can't imagine it would help much (if at all).

Is everyone assuming those drivers, woofers and horns are actual Klipsch parts? This may be some Frankenstein job, but I am not sure.

The street I live on has one acre lots, and many of the houses have wooded buffers between the houses. Everyone refers to these as "wetlands" and no building is permitted. These portions adjacent to the street are "mowed" by the town (once in a while) and if one of those trees falls into the road, the town is quick to remove the portion on the street (and leave the rest), but will do very little to clear the other debris if it is off the road. As you can imagine certain portions of the road are a bit "rustic" looking. Once in a while, some of neighbors, myself included, will tackle this ourselves, but it is hard to get motivated to clean up what the town should have been on top of. Do I now get to complain about "where are my taxes going to ...." No, Tom don't complain ....

Thanks, I appreciate it. I have just been digging through some before and after photos.

I am afraid that you have caught me being lazy. When I get a chance I will follow through. In the last month we have had two big windstorms. I am still cleaning up after a couple of trees came down. It is funny how a vertical tree may not look all that big, however when it is horizontal and on the ground they "become much larger". -Tom

If he is a serious buyer, please have him PM me. They are in New England, so I don't know if that will be a deal breaker for him. -Tom

Have a look at BEC's website (Bob Crites). He has developed such a speaker cabinet using the those parts (three-way) with a ported woofer. It is generally referred to as a "CornScala" (although that name has been substantially corrupted over the years). The crossover may need to be altered

With all due respect, I think this is going in circles. The Jubilees are quite efficient and it is hard to imagine that you will not be giving them enough power to play very, very loud (as mentioned above). Also due to their efficiency, any background noise or hiss can become quite audible (as mentioned above). So adding an additional piece of equipment could create an unwanted headache. Relax and enjoy your speakers, -Tom

I think I misunderstood. I thought you or someone said you were using active DSP for the crossover (or maybe I just assumed that). Personally, I prefer an active DSP approach since it can also provide time-alignment and the necessary CD boost. Both the K-402 and K-510 horns are CD horns (controlled dispersion which will require some high end boost). If the CD boost is passive, the the lower frequencies are actually being attenuated which make functionally makes the highs seem "boosted". The consequence is that there will necessarily be some insertion loss (in a sense you give up efficiency). I have no way of knowing how much loss there is. If I may ask, who cobbled the crossover together for you? Anyhow the good news is that I can't imagine the insertion loss is going to hamper the output with those big amplifiers. I also agree with Mike that the manufacturers should be more complete on their specs.

There is some confusion here that the OP can sort out. 1) is the pre-amp (volume control) before or after the DSP unit 2) is the pre-amp old style (output at about 3/4 volt RMS) or newer consumer (output at about 2 volt RMS), or pro style (output about 7-8 volt RMS)? 3) Please re-read what Miketn has written. It is very, very unlikely that the amp (in normal home use) would ever be fed a sufficient voltage where the amp could actually achieve achieve 600 or 1200 watts - as the OP stated: "input gain necessary to use amp to its fullest potential." 4) With high efficiency speakers, (as said above) you would be hard pressed to ever need more than 5-10 watts in your living room. In order to get 100's of watts, the volume knob (which adjusts the voltage) would need to be well-beyond the 12:00 o'clock position (certainly if the volume knob is after the DSP). Has the OP ever gone that far? At that point the concern is not about damaging your speakers, the concern is about permanent hearing damage for the user. If this seems incredible, then play a sine wave into the speakers and adjust the volume to "darn loud". Then disconnect the speaker and measure the AC voltage (RMS) that was being fed to your speaker. Square this value and divide by the nominal impedance. That will give you an approximate wattage fed to the speaker (it will be in the single digits, maybe the double digits and certainly no where the triple digits ). The music peaks will be anywhere from 6-12 dB above that value (approximately). Remember that each 3dB increase is about double the wattage. Good luck, -Tom PS: My intention was to get you not worry about big wattage amplifiers and also to get you to preserve your own hearing.

I think that can work out very nicely. The "extra reflections" will be sufficiently delayed and possibly add to the sense of "ambience." It is the single strong reflection with a short delay that can be problematic. Good luck

I can't imagine 15 inch woofer being good up to above 2kHz. That is asking quite a bit from a woofer. If it does make sound, it may not be very good sound (harmonic distortion but IMD would be the big worry). IIRC, the Jamboree is a folded horn design. Those typically cut off the highs due to the folding geometry (whether or not the woofer puts out much energy). So swapping woofers will probably not help and besides the back volume and throat were designed for a specific woofer specification. More optimistically, if you were able to extend the bandwidth from the bass bin to get an extra octave (or two octaves is better re: 500 Hz), then the Klipsch K-510 (as mentioned above) would then become a great option for a two-way design. The horn would (or should) be small enough to fit inside the cabinet (you would need to check this). The K-510 measures 9x15. Good luck, -Tom I just remembered that the Jamboree is a bi-furcated mouth. That design, similar to the Jubilee, can cause some problems when you cross too high. The problem is the polar dispersion (output as a function of angle) can drop off as you go to the side (as normal) but they can pop backup again ("petals" if you looked at the polar map). I have no idea whether anyone has measured the Jamboree. I know for the Jubilee, this can be a headache if you were to cross at higher than 700-800 Hz. I can't comment specifically on the Jamboree.

Front mounting (with the edge recessed) is preferred. There are data showing the difference in terms of the spectral effect. Whether the differences are grossly audible is up to the user. Good luck, -Tom

I believe that Coytee is correct on the price. A pair of new K-510 Horns with K69x drivers will cost about $1500 (roughly). The K-510 horn is a good horn. GLWS, -Tom

I am not sure if you are a serious buyer or just kicking the tires. I have a pair of Jubilee (style) bass bins but I would have to sell them with the K-402 Horns (including JBL drivers). They are in New England so the distance will be a problem. If you are interested, then please PM me. Good Luck, -Tom

As said above, the first order of business is to get them on the floor and near one wall at least (toward a corner is even better).

Congratulations on your new Cornwalls. There is probably not a simple answer since rooms differ in many ways. However, some tedious experimentation (listen, adjust, listen, adjust .... ) is your best bet. Overall sound stage will be most impacted by the listening angle (two speaker and chair define the triangle), spaciousness is most impacted by the toe-in, and overall bass is most impacted by the distances from the adjacent walls. Reflections from the side walls will impact other audio qualities as well. There are, of course, some other interactions but I am being brief. This experiment will not go quickly since it is time intensive and you should shoot for a systematic method for varying the above factors (angle, wall-distance(s), and toe-in). Try and use the same music samples (well-recorded ones) over and over again and take notes. It is a worthwhile endeavor and will have a much bigger impact than many of the other things you will be reading about on any audio forum. Good luck. -Tom

Depending on the look you are going for ..... Do a search on Tolex (in all its varieties of texture and color)

Another question. Will any "end grain" (from plywood or MDF) be visible?

Interesting project. What degree of gloss are you aiming for ? How finicky are you (80% or perfection)?