jason str

The Cornwall 3 is a great performer in its own right but if you have the room LaScala II's with a horn loaded subwoofer crossed over around 100 Hz (right near the point where the bass bin is no longer horn loaded) would be the best option of the two. If you have the room a set of Jubilee's would be another great pick.

100? You don't look a year over 90. Happy Birthday young man.

Not a Behringer fan myself but 315 watts @ 8 ohms looks about right plus it should have a limiter though I'm not familiar with the product. Judge an amp with the RMS rating and not with peak power. Though the drivers are rated @ 4 Ohm horn loading should raise this value and is why i went with the 8 Ohm rating.

If you really liked the LaScala sound why would you want to downgrade to a direct radiating woofer, just build yourself a set of LaScala's or Belle's.

Turbox, use the recommended 15" driver.

Price, they probably buy loads of 99 cent discount fans that move tons of air to keep things cool for warranty reasons. These amps are pro sound models where silent takes a back seat to keeping things cool but for home usage its best to upgrade to something with decent flow but quiet enough not to hear at low volume. Some fans work best in pressure situations such as cooling a heatsink or radiator and others work better in free air such as case or spot cooling.

I have used dozens of different fans over the years and find the Noctura fans best though they cost more than others. The model Scrappy listed is a good one though it is a PWM (speed controlled through an extra wire) if your amp uses standard 12 volt current with no controller just get the one without PWM, it will (should) be cheaper as well. For a cheaper, near silent alternative solution i find these Artic fans a true deal as they move good air to keep things cool and also use fluid dynamic bearings. I use these in my own systems.

A friend just picked one of these up to drive his Klipsch Forte's, worst sounding unit i heard in quite some time. No offence to the Onkyo fans but it really is a turd. Spend a little more or look for something used.

My ex's grandfather's house she was living in just halfway burned down because of this, some kind of old bare wire in the attic caught it on fire. As for walls, even cheap stud finders do a pretty good job of telling you where the wires are. I'd be scared about a detector screwing up whether or not the wires were bare. Drill bits or a properly placed nail can make romex bare enough in a split second. Sorry to hear about the fire, hope everybody made it out of the house. The problem is older homes use plaster witch has a wire mesh over wood lath, stud finders do not work great through so many layers of material.

Probably not a bad idea to run on the outside of the stud cavity although stuff like that will not pass code around these parts, what scares me is working on older homes where bare wire is hidden behind the walls and its kinda hit and miss when remodeling.

If a good ground/neutral does not exist in your circuit you can simply make one by hammering a ground rod into the earth and wire the ground up to your circuit(s), i have seen cold water lines and conduit used also but normally it will not be to code but most places have their own rules for this so be sure to follow them.

I tried a few times to become a Klipsch pro audio & general Klipsch product audio dealer only to be treated like an old dirty sock, its a shame really after not only buying many new products throughout the years but selling many others through word of mouth. Nice to see Parts Express had no problem picking up the brand.

Use the RMS rating for a maximum on your amplifier purchase. JL Audio recommends a maximum of 300 watts RMS in a small sealed enclosure, a large enclosure like you have i would pick something with less power. This Dayton would be a good choice. link

Spray paint is best. A small thin nap roller will work but don't go right from the pan to your work, find a clean piece of scrap to clear some of the excess paint off the roller so you don't end up filling the grille holes. Clean off the excess every time you add paint to the roller and you should be good to go.

That Thundertile goes for $50 for a 2' x 4' panel. If performance is what you are after lay acoustic insulation on top of the Armstrong panels, much better bang for your buck.

Happy birthday Jim. Hope your day is a great one.

They do offer thinner acoustic panels at a lesser price. If you have a fire barrier behind the drop ceiling such as drywall or other fire retardant material there are other options but nothing is going to be super cheap unless you can find some used ones and normally the thinner ones are sagged, stained or broken as they are kinda brittle. If the tiles rattle and shake from loud bass notes there are simple ways to keep that from happening too.

Menards has them though they may be special order. 24" x 48" tiles

As long as the humidity is not very high i would not worry about it, high humidity encourages rust and mold.

My first shotgun i built when i was 13 years old, it was a 12 gauge zip gun style build. Pretty basic but it worked great.

My understanding is that a CMOS reset and a battery removal are supposed to be the same except that battery removal also resets time/date. Yes but the way i was instructed years ago was to remove the battery, test battery, clear CMOS, replace battery. Did you check the battery voltage and inspect the mainboard ?

Try resetting the the CMOS with the battery out, test the battery with a voltmeter while it is out of the mainboard and replace if the voltage is low. Many times a cheap or faulty power supply can wipe out components with excessive ripple or overvoltage, also look for leaky capacitors and/or black spots on the mainboard.

I've heard of guys using 10 gauge for absolutely everything, even very short distances, but that don't mean it helps anything. Any time anybody thinks that electrical current works like a water hose and a small wire is choking off the flow, pick up a massive 2,000 watt subwoofer and look at the size of the wire from the terminal to the voice coil. 2000 watts calls for a heavier gauge wire, the right gauge depends on length of the run.

Green wire is just asking for a poor connection, replace it.

A steal at that price.