JohnA

I've been using braided CAT5E for speaker cable for 22 years(!). Must be wore out by now, what with knocking electrons out of their orbits for that many years! 😁 I am currently listening to a Technics SA-300 from '79 that I had recapped. That's probably all yours needs. The SA-200 I bought in college is in the garage driving a pair of Auratone 5CTVs.

LOL! Speed density EFI could also adapt using the O2 sensor and Intake Air Temp sensor, so it was not so dire as that. Add in that the WOT A/F ratio was 12 to 12.5:1 and the best power mixture is almost always 13.2:1, a *little* leaning is a good thing. BTDT with mt '87 Mustang GT. I measured EGTs on each bank to get an independent (cheap) look at WOT leanness. Off topic, so I'll also say, it's still a Mustang.... And I have decided metalized polypropylene caps sound subtly gritty. 😉

You can parallel resistors to raise the wattage limit. The resistance will have to be higher to use them in parallel.

Most likely a function of wave length vs. riser height and marketing/speaker design.

In general, if you can hear the sub, it's 10dB too loud. At +5 dB, my system sounds "impressive" without the subs being obnoxious. You really ought to get a sound meter to accurately setup the sub(s).

The top one is NOT Klipsch. The other one is an HIP, for Heresy Industrial Ported. The woofer is an E-V EVM-12L or Eminence copy and gets to 102 dB/w/m in the midrange. So, the crossover network ("Balancing Network") is a slightly Modified Type AA that was used on the K-horn/La Scala/Belle Klipsch and the squawker and tweeter are the same as the Big 3. They are quite bright, but excel outdoors and in Huge rooms.

I like it! I just happen to have 2 unused K-700s. How did you adapt the socket to the horn's threads?

How about a wall mount? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Profile-Capacity-Speaker-Brackets/dp/B00KFSP82C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2LQ0UTW1QBA4H&keywords=speaker+wall+mount&qid=1656618366&sprefix=speaker+wall+mount%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-3

The rotation angle of your preamp's volume control has little bearing on actual power output, though that is unusually high. To figure the sound level in your room, 1 watt is 98 dB at 1 meter Add an amp and another speaker +6 dB, 104 @ 1m Double the distance to 2m (6.5 feet) is -6 dB, 98 dB Double again to 13 feet, -6 dB, or 92 dB, @ 1 watt, plenty loud for peaks and a 20 watt amp still has 13 dB of headroom for Flim and The BBs. I sit almost 13 feet from my La Scalas. You won't lose quite 6 dB/doubling of distance in a reverberant field (room) so this exercise is conservative.

Very cool MicroMara, Where might I find such smart phone speakers?

https://ctbids.com/estate-sale/16329/item/1587569/L3ZpZXctbW9yZS1pdGVtcy9rbGlwc2No

I added 4 killer subs. La Scalas need low distortion bass below 60-ish Hz. The DJK mod needs a sharp LF filter and some EQ to stand out. Adding 1 to 3 dB (without the filter and EQ) below about 70 Hz helps, but is is not significant.

That is a question best asked of Al. Will he respond?

Keep pumping the dub step! My new H4 woofers took at *least* 72 hours at tolerable volumes to loosen up so they sounded like the ones I heard in Hope. Have you considered that the old cones were too loose?

I have never heard H2s or H3s, but everyone I know at Klipsch says the H3 woofer is a nice upgrade to the 2s. Supposedly the H4 woofer is the same. Were I serious about upgrading now that I've had H4s for a year+, I'd go with the H3 kit (new caps/inductors) and look about adding volume and a port to make my own H4. A small box added to the rear with a port into the original cabinet ought to do it. Perhaps ClaudeJ1 will help you with the calculations.

I made my own speaker cables from braided CAT 5E plenum rated (teflon insulation) cable. I twisted 3 pair and braided those 3. Finished with sore fingers. They are about equal to 11 gauge wire. And they do look cool! I'm sure they measure impeccably. I could hear a difference in my KLF-C7, probably because of the lower midrange impedance.

The black plastic cased capacitors were OEM Klipsch for a while in the 990s maybe before. Your K-42-E looks to be an Eminence (speaker company) made copy of the EV EVM-12L, the woofer I had in my early '80s HIPs. Your English is excellent.

Use a concrete anchor. Drill matching hole in ball and tighten. Use coupler to attach a threaded rod. Lube barrel and ball with motor oil. Drill hole for threaded rod in steel plate, 3/8" or so. Place plate over rod and against muzzle while attached to ball. Add nut and slowly draw threaded rod and ball to muzzle. You can use wooden blocks under the steel plate to help pull the ball the last few inches.

TL;DR So many comments, I'm not sure I will offer much more. Here's what I do/did. And I'd recommend in this order. Place them 2 to 3 feet out of the corner or about 2 feet off the wall. Add several uber-performance subwoofers, not only for output, but to try to match the La Scala's very low distortion. Replace the caps with high quality film and foil caps. They don't need to be $300 each, but it will be expensive. Delete the diodes. Front/flush mount the tweeters to reduce diffraction by the motorboat. Klipsch made Z brackets and a flanged K-77 to do it. You can also buy horns that use the excellent B&C DE120 tweeter. A tractrix tweeter horn will sound better. Alternately, you can place the tweeters on top of the cabinet, vertically aligned with the squawker parting line; that will approximately time align the squawker and tweeter, the worst time misalignment in the system. Wrap the squawker horn in Dynamat of equal to damp small vibrations. Then, line the motorboard opening with thick felt or front mount the squawker to reduce diffraction at the mouth. Felt is cheap and easy. Stuff the upper cabinet with pillow stuffing knock on the top with your knuckles to see why. Buy DVD-Audio discs.

You already have 2 to 4 times as much power as you need and a good amp. Be happy. Spend that money on DVD-Audio discs or quality vinyl.

I power my H4s with a refurbished late seventies Technics 35 watt receiver. I like the results. Maybe focus more on room and placement than power amp.

I talked to Gil a few minutes ago. His wit is as sharp as ever, but he is bored and requested calls. PM me and I'll give you his new number.

I talked to Gil a few minutes ago. His wit is as sharp as ever, but he is bored and requested calls. PM me and I'll give you his new number. Headphones are a great idea, if he doesn't have any. Brandon, do you know? Do you have his address?

K-33s are 4 ohms. 2226s are 8 ohms. You will not damage anything trying it, but the woofer low pass point will be off 1 octave and its output may be less, by 3 dB.

I did something like babadono did for my work bench. If you use plastic boxes, it will look less industrial. I would use 12 gauge wire, minimum. Stranded wire will be more flexible.