JohnA

SquareD gear. No! Never! They protect. They don't make sound.

Your equipment's power supplies are FAR better than that. Don't fall for audio nervosa. I have a small, educational solar system. The panel output is all over the map, both current and voltage. I'm running a Victron MPPT charge controller and a 300 watt Aims sine wave inverter. The battery voltage changes several 10ths every few minutes until the battery is topped off. So, the system voltages are not that stable, but the output of the Aims inverter does look to be stable to the volt, but I can't see what sort of harmonics are on the line. A typical rail voltage for a 100 watt amp is +/-40 to 45 volts. So what if your line voltage varies from 117 to 125V? Then, with Klipsch speakers you are mostly applying 10 volts or less to the speakers, never challenging the available 40V. Those fat caps in the power supply absorb and fill the tics and pops and brief sags that MAY make it past the transformer and rectifier. If you are worried about power system upsets, get some of these: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Power-Distribution-Whole-House-Surge-Protectors/Square-D/N-5yc1vZbm05Zal2?storeSelection= The breaker box style is cake to install.

Looks like flood damage. Save the K-400 and torch the rest.

Klipsch once would sell you original boxes for current production, but I don't think you should expect them to have old model boxes around.

You are showing the voice coil as open? The visible damage would not cause an open voicecoil. However, a needle drop might do both. LOL! *IF* you can find a correct recone, it will fix all your problems.

Check the resistance of the woofer alone. Should be the same as the other one. Any K-33 will work. Crites Speakers has woofers built to match early K-33s. There have been small changes over the years. Optimum would be another K-33-J; check ebay.

What a cluster! No. not for $50.

I gotta ask, why do you think fans of ultra high fidelity sound reproduction would know what that sound is? And why you'd demand an answer from those that have no clue?

Those aren't Belle Klipsch, named after Mr Paul's first wife. These are.

I'm not sure you could buy the materials for $27 each. I have a set. I sanded them the finished them with boiled linseed oil. they put my old H700s right where I needed them.

Who?

You need 20 to 25 watts/channel. Maybe 50, if your room is Huuuuge. I like Yamaha, Marantz, Parasound, Integra and Acurus

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/full-range-speaker-kits/fostex-bk-16-level-stand-each/

https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-S2B-A-Aluminum-1-3-8-18-TPI-Screw-On-to-2-3-Bolt-H-290-561 https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-Audio-ADM25-50-1-3-8-18-TPI-Driver-to-4-Bolt-2-Horn-Adapter-294-2941

M7 is dark Mahogany. B means a "riser" between the bass horn and HF section. That is the more modern look.

Speaker power ratings at a lot like auto speed ratings. Just because your car will go 300 Km/hr doesn't mean you can or should. Just because a speaker can absorb 400 watts with exploding in flames, doesn't mean you should try, or need the capability. Avoid audible distortion at all times. Turn it down. More important is the sensitivity (dB/watt) as long as you don't force too much power into a speaker rated for less (remember those flames). A 50 watt amp will happily and safely drive a speaker rated for 1000 watts, but just not as loud as it could get. However, overdriving the 50 watt amp (distortion) can cause some speaker parts to overheat and fail, commonly tweeters. Otherwise, there is no need to match any amp to any speaker beyond quality. Certainly, power ratings should not be considered when "matching". It is Quality, Quality, Quality. Buy the speakers you enjoy listening to the most. Buy enough power to get them as loud as you want in your room, without exceeding the speakers' power rating by a large margin (say no more then 2x the speaker rating).

Mr. Paul does not need translating.

Yes.

Any of the crossovers after the Type AK is a good crossover. Any xover over 30 years old would benefit from new, high quality film and foil capacitors. Don't read too much into "approved items". We've been using high quality parts and getting commensurate results for many years. Stick with xover designs made to work with your K-55-M squawker. There is a small difference in output over the older K-55-V, but enough to through off the midrange balance if you use an older A or AA (my preference) xover. There are ways to adjust an AA, but then you're into a lot of testing.

Completely inaccurate. Perhaps a version of the Jubilee used a BMS driver, but the Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch and La Scala didn't/don't (save maybe the newest tweeter). The Klipschorn and La Scala do use the same squawker horn, but it is far from undersized with a 240 Hz cut-off.

If a cat did that to my new Cornwalls, I'd be looking for a chemical for some aversion therapy!

You really need to change the 3.3 uF tweeter cap to 2.0 (2.2 OK) to tame a response hump in the K-77s from around 6k to 9k.

Better to use one autoformer and a -1 dB L-pad, or a custom built autofotmer.

John Allen's driver does test better. I think it is more audioneurotica to replace good, working K-55-Vs than anything else. When yours fail, or you drop one, buy the Allens.

I did not change out the BW 1504-4 woofer in my FH-1s. The system was built for random users, outdoors, at my church and wanted it to be bullet-proof. Below about 70 Hz, there is more distortion than fundamental. It's easy to hear using sine waves, less so with music, as it fits in better. For inside use a K-33 would be an excellent replacement. A K-43, or Eminence equivalent, would be a good overall choice and allow higher power levels. JBL's 2226H is the balls to the firewall choice with its 600 watt capacity, but it is an 8 Ohm driver. I crossed it to a pair of Klipsch Pro subwoofers at 70 - 100 Hz and solved the distortion problem. FH-1s will readily respond to 1200 Hz and required a 3rd order crossover to smooth the response at a 1000Hz crossover point. That made protecting my 902-8B on 511B horn easy, though. If you can't find it, I will give you my crossover design. It is, however, driver specific.