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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. I enjoy my Heresy IVs and would generally recommend them as first Klipsch. But from what you've been listening to, I'd recommend Fortes, as new as possible.. I have found the IIIs and IVs very pleasant and "real" sounding with roughly another octave of low bass over the H IVs.
  2. TTT. $100 + shipping.
  3. A 6 channel DSP and 3 D-75s should do it. That time alignment thing is worth the trouble.
  4. '70s Japanese amps did have a nice sound to them.
  5. I think you'll want to add some heavy drapes to the windows to absorb HF reflections. Then, add gentle eq. What's in the box on the dolly?
  6. Makes me wanna run out and buy some for MY hair!
  7. All of them! Metallica to Diplo dubstep. You may not hear or realize just how good they are, though, until you hear them play acoustic instruments. Acoustic instruments have a characteristic sound and are readily identifiable, unlike a synthesizer. If you go see the orchestra, or acoustic jazz, you will immediately recognize each instrument. The arrangement need not be sparse, either. The instruments should be readily heard regardless of how many pieces are playing.
  8. Mine didn't have that much damage, but there were some chunks missing out of the point of the dog house. I paid a good antique restorer to repair them and stain them red mahogany with a satin polyurethane finish. Whatever he did to the wood putty and wood (conditioner?) I can no longer find the repairs now that I have forgotten where they are. My avatar pic, on my member page gives a pretty good view. The edge plys are covered with a 3/4 x 3/4 cherry strip.
  9. SquareD gear. No! Never! They protect. They don't make sound.
  10. Your equipment's power supplies are FAR better than that. Don't fall for audio nervosa. I have a small, educational solar system. The panel output is all over the map, both current and voltage. I'm running a Victron MPPT charge controller and a 300 watt Aims sine wave inverter. The battery voltage changes several 10ths every few minutes until the battery is topped off. So, the system voltages are not that stable, but the output of the Aims inverter does look to be stable to the volt, but I can't see what sort of harmonics are on the line. A typical rail voltage for a 100 watt amp is +/-40 to 45 volts. So what if your line voltage varies from 117 to 125V? Then, with Klipsch speakers you are mostly applying 10 volts or less to the speakers, never challenging the available 40V. Those fat caps in the power supply absorb and fill the tics and pops and brief sags that MAY make it past the transformer and rectifier. If you are worried about power system upsets, get some of these: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Power-Distribution-Whole-House-Surge-Protectors/Square-D/N-5yc1vZbm05Zal2?storeSelection= The breaker box style is cake to install.
  11. Looks like flood damage. Save the K-400 and torch the rest.
  12. Klipsch once would sell you original boxes for current production, but I don't think you should expect them to have old model boxes around.
  13. You are showing the voice coil as open? The visible damage would not cause an open voicecoil. However, a needle drop might do both. LOL! *IF* you can find a correct recone, it will fix all your problems.
  14. Check the resistance of the woofer alone. Should be the same as the other one. Any K-33 will work. Crites Speakers has woofers built to match early K-33s. There have been small changes over the years. Optimum would be another K-33-J; check ebay.
  15. What a cluster! No. not for $50.
  16. I gotta ask, why do you think fans of ultra high fidelity sound reproduction would know what that sound is? And why you'd demand an answer from those that have no clue?
  17. Those aren't Belle Klipsch, named after Mr Paul's first wife. These are.
  18. I'm not sure you could buy the materials for $27 each. I have a set. I sanded them the finished them with boiled linseed oil. they put my old H700s right where I needed them.
  19. You need 20 to 25 watts/channel. Maybe 50, if your room is Huuuuge. I like Yamaha, Marantz, Parasound, Integra and Acurus
  20. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/full-range-speaker-kits/fostex-bk-16-level-stand-each/
  21. https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-S2B-A-Aluminum-1-3-8-18-TPI-Screw-On-to-2-3-Bolt-H-290-561 https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-Audio-ADM25-50-1-3-8-18-TPI-Driver-to-4-Bolt-2-Horn-Adapter-294-2941
  22. M7 is dark Mahogany. B means a "riser" between the bass horn and HF section. That is the more modern look.
  23. Speaker power ratings at a lot like auto speed ratings. Just because your car will go 300 Km/hr doesn't mean you can or should. Just because a speaker can absorb 400 watts with exploding in flames, doesn't mean you should try, or need the capability. Avoid audible distortion at all times. Turn it down. More important is the sensitivity (dB/watt) as long as you don't force too much power into a speaker rated for less (remember those flames). A 50 watt amp will happily and safely drive a speaker rated for 1000 watts, but just not as loud as it could get. However, overdriving the 50 watt amp (distortion) can cause some speaker parts to overheat and fail, commonly tweeters. Otherwise, there is no need to match any amp to any speaker beyond quality. Certainly, power ratings should not be considered when "matching". It is Quality, Quality, Quality. Buy the speakers you enjoy listening to the most. Buy enough power to get them as loud as you want in your room, without exceeding the speakers' power rating by a large margin (say no more then 2x the speaker rating).
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