babadono

@djk A couple questions if you don't mind. Is there drop in replacement (T 03 case) for the MJ15015 that would improve this amp? And what about the circuit topology makes Q100 and Q102 provide all the voltage gain when there is an Opamp with 120dB of open loop gain driving them and included in the feedback loop?

@Marvel any good fortune finding this info?

No Sir not yet. Awaiting new speakers that will be bi amped. All four amps are completed though. I could use these on my already set up KHorns but why? The amp that runs those now is a much better amp. A Boulder 500.

Deoxit BABY! But as paul79 says it probably needs TLC. Most 40 year olds do

These or similar work great with those pesky push terminal type amp connections https://www.parts-express.com/gold-12-awg-speaker-pin-connector-pair-solder-type--091-300

Just for fun if you want to determine it is the amp itself, put shorting plugs on the inputs. If it still makes the noise it is the amp itself. And as Shiva said DO NOT LEAVE THE CHEATER installed permanently.

Oh boy steradians now we're talkin'

Never done one of these before but........ isn't there a transmitter and a receiver? The transmitter would go at the Marantz and the receiver at the sub. What wireless kit is it? No instructions?

Heavy Man

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Congrats and Welcome to the forum Claude. What a way to join the tribe.

Well the good news is I think mine are Beryllium. So I was worried 'bout nuttin' But i learned why the solder joints looked like crap. Soldering to these plastic binding posts without melting the plastic part is tough. I gave up installed new posts and used crimp terminals on posts. Used nice gold plated quick disconnects for the connection to the diaphragm(thanks Madisound). Also learned with the crimp terminals it gets pretty tight inside the back housing, Only mangled 1 wire so far. One driver down second one coming up.

Likely story

Ditto that, also have my own jackhammer

^C'mon. When the recording/mixing/mastering engineer says it's done, it's done. After all they listened to it on these

Well with chassis in hand one maybe able to reverse engineer the Power Supply section. If someone builds one of these they should clean up/refurbish PWK's for the museum IMHO.

Looks like he(Bob) has several options for output tubes. What did you go with? Also on his website the chassis look like chrome and nice and shiny. Are you happy with yours?

@JustAuBy I think this was directed at you.

I only had the cover off of one of mine once back when i got them from TrueHeartSound on e bay. I should have taken pictures. Now that I'm finally going to put them in something I guess I'll take another peek. What I do remember is the cheesey soldering from the binding posts to the diaphragm that made me think they have been worked on/replaced. Could TAD have done such a ugly job on a driver they ask $3k for? Not looking for an answer to that question, just sayin'.

I like having a balance AND pan controls. And of course tone/EQ

That's why I axed it

Ok so beryllium is a dark smokey gray color and aluminum is well ....aluminum color? Thanks mark1101 I remember working with hybrid integrated circuits back in the day at Hughes Aircraft that were built on beryllium substrates and that stuff was white as freshly fallen snow.

How so? Please educate me.

@Chris A What about a simple DC measurement? Mine are reading a little under 8 ohms. My concern is maybe the diaphragms got replaced with a non beryllium type and i got taken when i bought these used drivers. Is there a way to know for sure?

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