Toz

I have a vintage Crown DC300a in the walnut case. It was only ever used in home HiFi, unlike many Crown amps that have lived hard lives. Believe it or not , it sounds really clean and clear with the best bass I've ever experienced with my corner horns. It images better than I would have expected too. It's not the last word but it's fun.

My take is that with SS amplifiers and K'horns it's not about the available wattage, but more about the Harmonic and IM distortion levels at the low wattages we normally run with our Klipschs. A high powered amp can sound great if it has very low distortion when idling along. I like My CJ PV-2 tube pre with EL34 amplification but I also hook up various SS, including MOSFET to the tube pre. I find it helpful to attenuate the signal from the tube pre.

That Empire is where it's at!

My parents took me to see Zappa and the Mothers of Invention in 1969 at Filmore East and again at Carnegie Hall. I was ten years old and remember it vividly. My mom brought her knitting, my dad wore suit and tie. We were surounded by freaky twenty something's smoking pot. The opening acts at Filmore were Chicago and Buddy Miles.

You guys are right to consider damping factor of the amplifier when driving woofers that have high mechanical damping like with heritage. Too much damping can translate to an accurate but thin sounding bass response. That's why tube amps can sound lush and full, they have nearly no damping. The JBL reference is interesting because I run 0.5ohm resistor in series with my JBL 130A's for this very reason, to get a fuller sound. It is still punchy and tight because I didn't over do the resistance, I just made the damping closer to what a tube amp would have.

I'm another convert to kgbo and k75. They sound better suited to the horns with a more balanced sound in my AK2-1/2 and B2t networks than the various modern poly film caps I've tried.

Sounds like you will need an RCA switch box for your source at the front end of your amplifiers and the Amp/Speaker/Amp switch.

It's a very comprehensive job, the beautiful craftsmanship is apparent. You need all the low frequency quality you can get in order to keep up with those JBL compression drivers. I bet it is a dream system now

Mbgo-2 and K75 Capacitors are all I'll use anymore. The Solens, Daytons Audyns, etc never really sounded right to me when I tried them. Too thin and unbalanced sounding when I tried them in Corns and K-horns.

The sleeve idea is a sound one, but could be more costly than buying a used replacement. That horn ain't getting mounted on a lathe easily, and is too tall for the average tool room mill. As per my earlier post, it's kind of an involved repair.

I'm a machinist and that's not a simple job. I do know a few relevant things that could be helpful. Those drivers are 1-3/8"-18. Good luck finding a helicoil. It was bottom tapped, either at the foundry or by Klipsch, and probably with the face of the tap ground flat to get threads near the bottom. The threads in the K400 are sloppy on my pair. Your best bet is find a replacement or build it up with weld or Devcon and re-tap. The suggestion to use tape isn't a bad one, but it didn't work because tape wrapped around the external thread just goes in the root of the external thread. You need to build up the minor diameter of the internal thread, or the crest of the external thread. I would try something along the lines of a thin plastic shim or foil instead of the Teflon tape.

I've noticed that very dynamic speakers, like the Klipsch, JBL, Altec, Tannoy, etc. aren't for everyone. People often mistake dynamics as being harsh or bright. Some audiophiles aren't that familiar with live music. What I like about good horns is the effortless dynamics and openness to the sound. Talk about soundstage. Most of the other stuff sounds like it's struggling to pressurize the room.

I can only compare other speakers to my Klipschorns and Cornwalls. Altec Model 19's are the only speakers I liked as much. I like the JBL and Altec drivers a lot! It just seems that Klipsch is better at implementation so you end up with a great sounding system to my ear anyway.

Here is the stock B-2T

My B-2T networks came with 15uF across the woofer. There is a 3uF oil can paralleled with a 12uF film cap for a total capacitance of 15uF in the woofer shunt. The B2 has 20uF in this position.

I remember reading here at some point that the EV M driver didn't live up to the published efficiency that was used when designing the AK-2 network. The result was a recessed midrange. I've used both networks in my K-horns. I prefer the AK-2 network with it's knocked back midrange. I also padded down the K77 slightly to better match the K55M. I did keep the 100uF on the K33. Personally, I think the AK-2 gets a bad rap due to people repeating what others say. I will say that my experience with both networks is that there is not a night and day difference. Room acoustics and associated equipment may play an equal or greater role.

"Phase issue"? The mid level is 2db higher on the AK3 if I'm remembering right.

C-J MV45, this was one of their prototypes. I pair it with a Pv-2 pre. It delivers the lush sound Conrad Johnson is famous for.

I do think all systems are affected by age and use, not to mention ever changing environmental conditions. I also think that the listener is the least consistent part of the audio chain. I have several decent systems set up throughout the house and when I switch systems, it takes a half hour or so until I adjust to the new sound and start enjoying the music.

I live in Washington state and have noticed that our area does not have the enthusiasm for Klipsch Heritage that I've noticed in other markets. I wouldn't pay top money for Cornwalls unless they were in top condition. I doubt buyers are lining up to buy these. I would talk to the seller and explain where you're coming from. Cornwalls are my favorite Heritage, you need a pair, but you don't want to be a sucker.

If the speakers sound dull and without the lifelike presence Klipsch is known for, you need a recap. My Cornwalls are 1981, with B2 and they sounded a bit muffled on top compared to my other Klipsch speakers. I recapped them and all is well again. In any case, every screw inside your cabinet holding drivers and the electrical connections and the mid driver to horn gasket have probably loosened and could use some tightening.

That looks on par with a good avant garde art show piece. They have that mid century architectural look, it's really good! Your speakers look great too. Could you elaborate a little on the speakers? What's up with the milk jugs on the floor?

Had: Chorus II Forte Heresy Have: Cornwall Klipschorn Still Want: La Scala Belle Klipsch

What input do you have it plugged into? It would need to go into a phono input. The phono cartridge on your turntable needs a phono input because there is a phono preamp with equalization associated with a phono input. There is also a special one needed for a moving coil cartridge, but that is less common until to climb the ladder.

Short answer, K33 is for Heritage Cornwall, LaScala, Belle and Klipschorn. K43 is for Klipsch Industrial and has greater power handling.