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Can I use the same power supply for a Cinema 1200 as the Bar 48? there are more wires (2 gnd-2 VCC 1 Stb then the 24v. )

I have a long car trip scheduled for mid June (driving my kid's car & stuff from Boise, ID to Albany, NY)... So, along the way I thought I'd try to pick up a pair of Forte's or Chorus. I have a pair of KP301-IIc's right now, which are used for the basement bar. I have had a lot of others over the years (KG-4, Heresy, KG-5, Forte, Cornwall) and I want to pick up a pair for a small listening room (12 x 16) to go with the really sweet Antique Sound Labs Wave AV-8 monoblocks I just picked up, (mostly for Jazz, Classical, and Ambient music). I'm hoping to keep the budget under $1500 for the Chorus, or under $1000 for the Forte, so I'm not looking for the Series IV models. TIA John Moore

If there was a lil bar w/food across the road from the place the food there was great. Threw a tent down on Monument Lake @ the Nat'l Park IF that's the area. Million of 'em down there. I'd stopped in an airboat place in Novmber a few year's ago. They weren't open yet but was shootin the crap w/some old guy who had an airboat he ran outta there. Asked if I wanted to go out. I laffed HARD at that one. Swamps, gators, snakes and critters? Just say NO! He got it so that started an hour bs session. Musta seen my retired Army plate. lol Wound up takin me across the street to eat and paid for it. Never saw a check or any cash go to the woman so figured it was prolly his wife. lolol Hope ya had a nice time. I ride with the locals when I'm out on walkabout. Their turf. Ya just roll with it and get along. Always works for me. Life's about respect.

I have the same issue, I have tried multiple different cables, isolation transformers, different locations, and plugging everything into the same power bar. If I turn the gain on the subwoofers above 25 or 30 % I get a hum, Pioneer VSX-LX505 and Klipsch R120SW

Have a Sony X900H 65" TV with HDMI3 connected to a Cinema 600 sound bar. This setup has been in use since 2021 or so. Have a DirecTV HR44 DVR into the HDMI1 on the Sony TV. HDMI-CEC is enabled for everything. For the first 3 years of this setup, everything worked as it should. On the DirecTV remote which is programmed for the Sony TV when you hit volume up, the TV shows an indicator in the corner that the volume is increasing, and the sound through the Cinema 600 goes up. When you hit volume down on the DirecTV remote the volume went down. A few months ago, something changed (nothing we've done). Now when you hit volume up on the DirecTV remote, at first you see the volume begin to go up, but then it goes down, down, down and all the way down to 0 if you keep holding it in. If you hit the volume down, it also goes down. The only way to turn the volume up is to get the SONY or Klipsch remote and use this volume up controls. We instantly thought the volume toggle button on the DirecTV remote went bad since operation worked fine juggling multiple remotes. So we had DirecTV send us a brand new remote. I walked through the on screen pairing process where it detected the TV as Sony and pushed out the Sony IR command set to the new DirecTV remote. To our surprise, the same issue remains even with this new remote. Every time you try to turn the volume up with DirecTV, you see the volume initially start to go up but then it goes down. You can pulsate volume up on DirecTV remote and it just keeps going lower and lower until its completely muted at 0. Break out the Sony remote and you can turn it up. Now what I found is if I cover the IR EYE on the sound bar, this behavior doesn't happen. As long as the sound bar does not "see" the DirecTV's remote, the volume up button will definitely turn the volume up as long as you hold it - all the way to 100% if you can stand it! So I have a bit of an eyesore going on. A piece of paper colored in with a dark marker and packing tape holding it down across the sound bar. Ugly, but it fixed the problem. Does anyone know what could have happened between 2021 and 2024 that causes the Cinema 600 sound bar to interpret Sony Volume Up from a DirecTV remote as volume down, but Sony volume Up from a Sony remote as Volume up? I don't really need the IR eye but it would be nice to not have a big piece of tape on it. If I want to change inputs, I have the iPhone app or the hardware buttons on the sound bar itself.

Looking forward to putting it in my living room. I ordered the Flexus 200 and the Sub 100, but the Sub is in back order. When the Bar gets here tomorrow I am curious how well it does on its own. I have demo'd 2 diff bars and subs so far, I hope the Klipsch is a keeper.

@Peter P. As per your request, I am responding with my decision. I thought long and hard about what you guys said above. I came to realize that without the ability to at least control the subwoofer, I would likely not be happy with it. The SVS really made me think about the value of the control and not having to climb behind my TV to adjust what little was adjustable on the Klipsch and other inexpensive subwoofers. It also made me think about the fact that I hadn't updated any of my audio equipment in 20+ years and it was probably time to do that. The final event that pushed me over the edge was the airing of the Billy Joel the 100th on the 14th. I was still without a decent sound system to enjoy it. So, not being a person who likes to buy used stuff in unknown condition without a warranty or support, and in consideration of all of your comments and a great video by the Obsessed Garage: SVS Subwoofers: Which Entry-Level Sub? (PB-1000 vs PB-2000 & SB-1000 vs SB-2000) - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZTMv3cO6tQ). I decided on the SVS PB-1000. I have received it and set it up and I needed to talk to their support on an issue with that. I was very impressed by the sales person and then the support person who was available to help me at 7:45pm the night the subwoofer showed up. I now have a new dilemma. My current regular speakers are again 20+ year old tiny Optimus Bookshelf speakers from Radio Shack. Oddly enough, they are not terrible, but, obviously not anything close to the current state of the art. Due to space considerations, I was going to try to replace them with more up-to-date Bookshelf speakers and I spent a LOT of time researching them, including the ones suggested by the video above (PSB Alpha P5) and then I noticed that there were Tower speakers that came in at a similar cost to some of the better Bookshelf speakers. I originally had not considered those due to space constraints. My TV is in a corner and there isn't much room on either side, particularly on the left side which would overhang the fireplace. However, in looking at the prices and reviews, it seemed like there were only 2-3 speakers that were well reviewed, priced right, and were physically appealing to me. Polk Audio XT70 or XT60 Sony SSCS3 Klipsch (several, but they are so large I'm not sure they would work) I currently have a Pioneer VSX-D509S AV Receiver and I am not planning to replace that. I have also been looking at Bookshelf speakers (around $500/pair), but that is a really long list and I am wondering if I should consider Powered or only passive. The reason I have been thinking powered is for the same reason I picked the SVS Subwoofer and that is the ability to tune them if needed. Some I have considered: Passive ------- SVS Prime Bookshelf PSB Alpha P5 Polk Audio T15 Active ------ Kali Audio MM6 Kali Audio LP6v2 (discontinued ?) Audiodngine A5+ PreSonus Eris E5 BT Update (I started that text 2 weeks ago) I purchased the Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf speakers due to them having great reviews, but not being expensive. I also selected them due to the fact that the Tweeter, Woofer, and Base Port are all inline and the Dome Tweeter appears to be relatively omni directional. I also ordered a pair of the Polk Audio XT70 Towers in case the Elac's didn't do the job. I do like the the Elacs, but after visiting the Best Buy Magnolia store and listening to a pair of Martin Logan Shelf Speakers that were about $800/each, so, unfortunately I know how high the bar can be. But, like I said originally, I am not an audiophile, but I can tell the difference, I just don't want to invest the amount needed to get to that level. I am currently looking at the following reviewers on Youtube to try to get a better education of what matters, and what I can possibly do for the best bang for the buck: Obsessed Garage Cheap Audio Man Joe N Tell Erin's audio corner Hopefully all of the above can help another noob like me. Thanks again for all your help

This Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread has a lot of useful information in case you want to undertake a DIY project. If you find a repair shop, you may want to refer them to this thread.

I have the cinema 600 bought the board and did the swap. It powered right up which was great, BUT the sub now won't power down when the sound bar is turned off. ????

I doubled up last night @JohnJ. 😂 Bout 30 wimmen rolled in having a birthday party for one of them. Place was packed. Ya couldn't even get to the front bar so they had the back bar open. All kinds of food. Wound up w/a plate of ribs and about 25 amazing smoked devilled eggs. Figure that one out. Exactly, he's runnin on empty for sure. IF he'd cut Nils loose it would be a fantastic tour for sure imo. BTW @AndreG. that Di meolaio lp is great! 😂 Know you'll enjoy that!

I got my first pair of Klipsch's about 9 months ago and I love them. They are all wood HIPs, with rounded corners and a cherry wood finish with silver metal woofer grills. I've seen lots of photos of HIP's but none that look quite like these, they look like they'd be at home in a bar or a burlesque stage. I love them but obviously can't compare them to any other Heresy's as I've never owned any others. The serial #s are 3446 and 3447. Any info on the manufacture date and where they originally sold would be much appreciated. Thanks!

I used Bar Keepers Friend to remove water stains. I treated the whole surface, not just the stained areas. Have you sanded any of it?

After my second BAR 48 died, Klipsch gave me a Cinema 600. It had just become available. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few months. I was then given a Cinema 800. Search these community forums for "Cinema 800" to learn more. Both the Cinema 800 & 1200 have reliability issues too but far fewer than the BAR 48 and the Cinema 600 do. Early firmware updates were a disaster but the latest ones are stable. You should be quite happy with your Cinema 800. I am. 🙂

In my Bar48 case if VDD and STB connect with +5V , It worked for a while and then lost power again.Can't power on again . so I study this post say you can disconnect STB no plug in +5V , keep it disconnect. It work great! my Bar 48 can work again.

I want to also add my voice to everyone here who has thanked Sixer for starting this thread, and to the Cinema 600 owners who joined in to include and clarify the experiences they had with our version of the soundbar. We purchased the Cinema 600 just over 3 years ago. Last month we had the exact same symptoms that have been described here, the audio getting a little static-y, followed by problems powering up and then the lights not coming on and then getting that one red light before the next time after that trying to turn it on and kaput... nothing. A quick internet search brought me to this thread, I read through it, and even though I have absolutely no electronics experience and am not a DIY'er at all, the postings in this thread gave me a clear enough vision and the confidence to tackle the task of retrieving a hardly-ever used set of gifted allen wrenches, disemboweling the sound bar and replacing that good-for-nothing ETOP power supply (although okay, it did make it through 3 years of not very heavy use). Like most here, I got the NOYITO replacement for $15 off Amazon (only 1 left in-stock the last time I saw about 5 days ago, must be a lot of us replacing Klipsch soundbar power supplies). Long story short, my replacement worked, my soundbar is back in business, I am bragging to everyone who listens about my newly acquired electronics skills, and I am grateful to all here who shared. I also did splurge and got an inexpensive multimeter/voltmeter. That came in handy to verify, before unplugging, snipping wires and removing the ETOP, that yes, had 120V AC going in, had 24V DC coming out on the larger output wires, but only had about 3V coming out on the smaller output wires. It also helped me verify the outputs on the new power supply, that as described elsewhere here as you are looking at it from that output side, 24V are the two on the left and 5V are the two on the right. It also verified for me that the NOYITO was marked correctly, with the two positive outputs being on the far left and right of the four, and the two negative outputs being the two in the middle. I can also add to the verification that for my Cinema 600 for the smaller 5V wires, white was GND, black was VDD and red was SBY, and I twisted the VDD and SBY together onto the +5V output of the new power supply. Now, yes, the NOYITO is about the same width, but shorter in length than the ETOP, and the metal heat sink grates, which are bigger and placed differently on the circuit board, don't seem to easily allow you to use one of the existing mounting holes in the soundbar backplate. I see here that some people have drilled new holes in the backplate to mount. I did not find that convenient for my 600, so I just have my replacement power supply sitting unmounted in there. The heat sinks do lay against the inside of the casing, but so far, the area has only felt tepidly warm to me. If that turns out to be an issue down the road, I would have to go back in there and figure out how and where to drill a new mounting hole or holes and get it to slide in and fit in there mounted to the backplate given that the size and orientation of the heat sinks make that harder to do. So, thanks again to Sixer and everyone here. This fix worked for my Cinema 600 soundbar. If Klipsch is smart and monitoring this, I want them to know that their reputation for quality has taken a hit with me. Being 3 years out, I did not choose to call them. But, it would have gone a long way with me if I had seen on their website a troubleshooting description of all of this, an acknowledgement of the customer experiences with these ETOP power supplies, and the offer of an inexpensive replacement that would include detailed and easy-to-follow instructions for doing so. In my book, that would have really set them apart in my eyes and gone a long way to enhance their reputation with me and win me over as a loyal long-term customer.

Hey guys, thanks for the quick response on these. The basic answer to this question is a couple of no-name bookshelf speakers and sound bar. I am not really looking for an optimal sound eproduction situation here, I am far from an audiophile. I really just need a decent (not super) sub woofer to fill out the low end that can't be produced by the other speakers.

Unless it's a very, very fine lunch with a few friends & a large bar Tab!

Discovered this coffee bar in the district where I´m living now , it´s called Baristoteles Coffeehouse . Tasted their coffee yesterday , what shall I say ....absolutely delicious ...I made some pics , this how it looks inside

I go to Walmart to pick up my bathroom toiletries. Bar soap, liquid hand soap, Old Spice Mens shampoo. And AC/DC gold vinyl And Rush red vinyl I didn't go for the vinyl but left with the vinyl. Impressive sound!

hi @audiophile18, The Cinema Series soundbars are being phased out and are being replaced with the Flexus Soundbars as @billybob pointed out. The Cinema Series has had its issues: most notable are the many firmware issues and general hardware reliability. The current firmware versions are quite reliable and have addressed most of the issues found in earlier firmware versions. Hardware reliability is another matter. Some owners have had two or three replacements while others have no problems at all (yet). The the most notable remaining issue that affects the Cinema 700, 800, & 1200 is the loss of audio which can be be be restored by power cycling the soundbar. I have a Cinema 800. I still encounter this issue every three or four weeks, much less frequently though than the almost daily occurrence when the issue first surfaced. The other issue involves the centre channel dialog which Klipsch never completely resolved. Very few, if any, of the hardware issues plaguing the Cinema Series soundbars involve the Klipsch speakers. Almost all are due to issues with the electronics. All owners agree: They sound fantastic! I know there are some great deals on Cinema series soundbars now but my advice would be to wait for the Flexus Soundbars. The entry level models will be released first followed by the higher end models a few months down the road, just has Klipsch did with with the BAR series and the Cinema series.

Thanks. The only way, that I know of, to remove light scratches is to do some light sanding. The water stains on these cabinets did not go deep, so the light sanding removed them too. I have used Bar Keepers Friend mixed to a paste to acid bleach water stains from veneer before. Google that for more info. LaScala bass bin with Dave Harris Epitrac 400 mid and Dave Ault's L-MAHL tweeter and using MC30s for power.

I'm with @tragusa3 on his concerns about volume. Is this a bar you want people to be able to converse easily or have to raise their voices to be heard? The main reason klipsch will work so well for a bar is the intelligibility. If all drivers work (woofer, and two compression drivers for the midrange and tweeter) the crossovers can be fixex/updated/retored to original specs. If the Belle Klipsch cabinets are in nice shape, they have probably not been abused. Lascalas often have been as a lot of bands hauled them around or used them for P.A. A lot will depend on the price.

Welcome @Powerhousehb Going to contact @KevinB He knows alot about sound bar systems. May have an answer.

If I would had read all the above I would not have purchased my Cinema 400 this morning. I got a good deal on it and pulled the trigger. I have the sound bar hooked up through hdmi and have not had an issue yet. Been running it for the last 8 hrs. Sound is good. I regret not going for the cinema 600 or higher. The cinema 400 is not compatible with the connect app which has a equalizer to tweak your sound and I did not know that until after I setup my cinema 400.

Guys thanks so much for this info on Bar 48 i had a similar issue of no power at sound bar,bought the power module from amazon and followed the instructions on how to wire it up,the new module powered up okay but still my soundabar didnt respond,i have tried everything on this thread but i gues mine had another issue.i really hate to throw in the towel by throwing it in the trash can.i really love the sound but i guess its time we part ways.