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UH1dg337

active crossovers

62 posts in this topic

I have gathered enough amps to give triamping a go.

I was looking for brand recommendations Rane? Peavey? dBX? Behringer? Ashley?

I dont want to blow the budget used is ok.

current have a pair of Fortes and a pair KP-301 II

this would be for a home system

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Good luck with this, and keep me posted.

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I have gathered enough amps to give tri-amping a go.

I was looking for brand recommendations Rane? Peavey? dBX? Behringer? Ashley?

I dont want to blow the budget used is ok.

current have a pair of Fortes and a pair KP-301 II

this would be for a home system

I'd recommend a digital unit - not analog, meaning that you can set time delays for each tri-amp channel. This reduces your active loudspeaker processor marketplace choices by only a little.

I would not recommend miniDSP if you aren't an electronics/software tinkerer. I would also recommend something other than the Behringer DCX2496 if you have a very discerning ear or you live in a latitude where it gets hot in the summer (Behringer units have a habit of eating their power supplies).

Other than that, it's what your budget will allow - price generally follows performance. Used units on ebay or even craigslist locally have been pretty good bets - so I'd really recommend looking there after you get a list of models in your hand that you're interested in. Make sure that you are looking for 2-in, 6-out units. For instance, my EV Dx38s are good units but they are 2-in, 4-out units.

Chris

Edited by Cask05
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I have gathered enough amps to give tri-amping a go.

I was looking for brand recommendations Rane? Peavey? dBX? Behringer? Ashley?

I dont want to blow the budget used is ok.

current have a pair of Fortes and a pair KP-301 II

this would be for a home system

I'd recommend a digital unit - not analog, meaning that you can set time delays for each tri-amp channel. This reduces the active loudspeaker processor marketplace by only a little.

I would not recommend miniDSP if you aren't an electronics/software tinkerer. I would also recommend something other than the Behringer DCX2496 if you have a very discerning ear or you live in a latitude where it gets hot in the summer (Behringer units have a habit of eating their power supplies).

Other than that, it's what your budget will allow - price generally follows performance. Used units on ebay or even craigslist locally have been pretty good bets - so I'd really recommend looking there after you get a list of models in your hand that you're interested in. Make sure that you are looking for 2-in, 6-out units. For instance, my EV Dx38s are good units but they are 2-in, 4-out units.

Chris

I have a DCX2496, and I find it to be a bit counter-intuitive. I hate reading manuals. :) I haven't tried a software based electronic crossover, but the guy (who I can't remember for the life of me) that I bought this from was replacing it with a software based electronic crossover. According to him, the software offered things the hardware based one didn't.

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I have gathered enough amps to give triamping a go.

I was looking for brand recommendations Rane? Peavey? dBX? Behringer? Ashley?

I dont want to blow the budget used is ok.

current have a pair of Fortes and a pair KP-301 II

this would be for a home system

I have had all but the Rane the Ashly 3.6SP was the best the DBX driverack PA is ok as is the Behringer. Ashly support is great if you need help setting it up. Check Guitar Center they have nice used units .

Edited by kg4guy

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I've been very happy with Ashly analog XO's

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I have a DBX Driverack PA I would let go reasonably. It was my first attempt at active and was ok to work with. I have the test microphone, manuals and original box. PM me if interested tonight. As I mentioned in the lounge, I am leaving for a little R&R this week.

BTW miniDSP isn't so bad if you are comfortable with computers. Its a bit noisy though and thats why I retired mine.

Software based actives are the way to go in my book. You pick a good sound card with as many channels as you need. Spend a little or spend a lot there is such a wide variety of choices.

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Thanks guys this is a great forum. I should have tried this a year ago when I noticed the factory crossovers were sounding tired.

I just picked up my second Dynaco 70 sunday.

I also have a pair of HK Citation 24s

A Driverack PA was near the top of my list as it has more functions than the manual ones.

That was a debate, I usually try to keep it simple and was leaning towards a Rane AC23 it is 6 channels out and has time delay corrections.

Brad a PM is on your way.

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I agree, this is an awesome forum. Best on the web, IMO.

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Thanks guys this is a great forum. I should have tried this a year ago when I noticed the factory crossovers were sounding tired.

I just picked up my second Dynaco 70 sunday.

I also have a pair of HK Citation 24s

A Driverack PA was near the top of my list as it has more functions than the manual ones.

That was a debate, I usually try to keep it simple and was leaning towards a Rane AC23 it is 6 channels out and has time delay corrections.

Brad a PM is on your way.

You can only delay the low freq. output. This will work if the mid/tweeter is farther back than the woofer. If you had a horn bottom, it definitely wouldn't work as you would want to delay the mid/tweeter to align with the woofer.

Bruce

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Thanks guys this is a great forum. I should have tried this a year ago when I noticed the factory crossovers were sounding tired.

I just picked up my second Dynaco 70 sunday.

I also have a pair of HK Citation 24s

A Driverack PA was near the top of my list as it has more functions than the manual ones.

That was a debate, I usually try to keep it simple and was leaning towards a Rane AC23 it is 6 channels out and has time delay corrections.

Brad a PM is on your way.

You can only delay the low freq. output. This will work if the mid/tweeter is farther back than the woofer. If you had a horn bottom, it definitely wouldn't work as you would want to delay the mid/tweeter to align with the woofer.

Bruce

DBX Driverack PA+ you delay any channel. Edited by bracurrie

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DBX Driverack PA+ you delay any channel.

That's why I highlighted the Rane AC23... ;)

Bruce

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Anybody ever tried the Peavey vsx 26.

Musician's friend claims its a 3 in 6 out, how I don't know as I only see 2 inputs. Maybe a type o.

Edited by duder1982

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My personal recommendation would be to stay away from the Rane, inexpensive dbx, and Behringer units. While I've used them to great success, they're simply not as versatile and/or sound as good as other options on the market.

An EV Dx38 is way more full featured and they have a newer DC-One available now: both are great units. The Yamaha SP2060 is one of my favorites, but probably out of your price range.

Shure used to make the P4800, which you can probably find on the used market for a good price. Its output is super hot so make sure you've got amplifiers with input attenuation if you don't want any hiss. There is a pad on the P4800, but it's a bit too much if you're looking for a ton of output drive.

The Ashly units I've heard sound good, and I would also recommend T.C. Electronic if it gives you enough control.

Do you have any kind of measurement equipment available to your disposal? Trying to dial in xovers by ear can be pretty difficult, and the passive xovers in your speakers have EQ built-in as well that you'll want to replicate (or improve on actually). Parts-Express sells a pretty potent measurement rig + software for real cheap (like $100 or so). I've dialed in speakers by ear and it's not the end of the world - especially considering how much crazy happens in live sound - but that last level of polish really needs measurement equipment to get there. Depending on your price range, it might make sense to go cheaper on the DSP to make it affordable...or maybe find a friend that can help you out. You can even just buy a measurement mic for $50 and use a laptop with free software....never hurts to have an ETA running on a laptop during a gig anyway: especially if you want help chasing down feedback frequencies (matching the Q can be a huge help).

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I really like the Mini DSP for digital, and the Ashley for analog.

I find the mini dsp user friendly, and mine had zero noise issues.

The only issue I have with digital crossovers is that: I don't like to play an analog source, convert to digital, adjust in the digital domain, then convert back to analog. I don't think I ever heard a difference, but it always bothered me, so I slowly migrated back to passives.

Probably worse to go from a digital source, d-a, a-d, d-a.

There is hope, there is more that one way to skin a DAC!

For a while, when I was using all digital, I went directly from my digital source to my digital active crossover, and then to a 6 channel passive preamp on the output.

Warning - If you are not the set it an forget it kind, better stick with passives. Way too many combinations with actives, may drive you nuts.

On a more positive note, my Mini's always sounded good, allow for time alignment, and they allowed for direct input from REW.

Dave.

Edited by GotHover
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Thanks for the warning Dave, I might be opening a can of worms.

I have one set of Fortes with an upgraded passive xo with premium parts. And another pair that is still stock.

I like the way the new crossovers sound now, much improvement over stock. But sometimes, not often there is an overbearing low freq. I have no way to acuratly test the them.

I decided in a dbx Driverack with the setup mic. If that works, I'll likely set it and hopefully leave it alone.

The pair of KP-301 are a recent purchace and I might let them go in the future. They are alot of speaker compared to the Fortes. I could move them to garage duty since they have metal grills.

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Sounds like you are good to go, I have not used the drive rack, but have heard good things.

Enjoy.

Dave

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I really like the Mini DSP for digital, and the Ashley for analog.

 

I find the mini dsp user friendly, and mine had zero noise issues.

 

The only issue I have with digital crossovers is that: I don't like to play an analog source, convert to digital, adjust in the digital domain, then convert back to analog. I don't think I ever heard a difference, but it always bothered me, so I slowly migrated back to passives.

 

Probably worse to go from a digital source, d-a, a-d, d-a.

 

There is hope, there is more that one way to skin a DAC!

For a while, when I was using all digital, I went directly from my digital source to my digital active crossover, and then to a 6 channel passive preamp on the output.

 

Warning - If you are not the set it an forget it kind, better stick with passives. Way too many combinations with actives, may drive you nuts.

 

On a more positive note, my Mini's always sounded good, allow for time alignment, and they allowed for direct input from REW.

 

Dave.

Dave,

I only listen in Digital (DVDs, CDs, etc.) I have my setup now with MiniDSPs, and tuned with REW... Would there be an improvement in sound if i went with a EV or Yamaha active crossover?

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Dave, I only listen in Digital (DVDs, CDs, etc.) I have my setup now with MiniDSPs, and tuned with REW... Would there be an improvement in sound if i went with a EV or Yamaha active crossover?

 

I really can't say, I haven't had the opportunity to A/B the units.  I can say I was pleasantly surprised by cost to performance value of the Mini DSP.

 

I would like to see Mini DSP to take their product to the next level.

 

Dave

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