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Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, babadono said:

Pretty sure @capo72 means bypass even the parts inside the woofer chamber and go right to the woofer. And disconnect the parts inside which are a capacitor and an inductor. And you can also do as jimjimbo suggested while they're disconnected and measure the woofer voice coils.

 

So I 've got a set of speaker wires with just 'tinned' ends...  Just attach them directly to the spades on the speaker itself?

 

If so, what should I be listening for?  Should the sound change? Louder? Clearer?

 

Thanks again for the ideas and the 'hand holding'!

Edited by Douglas Bubbletrousers

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Well .... the inductor is in series with the voice coil and the capacitor is in parallel. So yes you SHOULD be able to read with those parts still attached. You should read the resistance of the voice coil and the inductor in series, so what guys around 5 to 8 ohms?

@Deang?

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Bypass them (both)The K-33 woofer does not actually require a low-pass section on the cross over. IOW, go directly from the amp to the woofer. Use a test test signal and measure (listen) above and below 60 Hz.

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On 8/20/2019 at 1:04 AM, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

The only 'issue" I can think of is that one time, when I was hooking up a new turntable, my hand bumped the MM/MC switch on the back of the amp when an album was playing, and things got very loud for a second before I bumped the switch back..

Looking back at your statement above.....It's hard to imagine that you blew the woofers and not the tweeters or mids, but then again, stranger things have happened....

 

You can simply de-solder the wires that are on the woofers, or just clip them off if you've got some slack.  That would be the easiest thing to do to measure the voice coils.

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6 minutes ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

 

So I 've got a set of speaker wires with just 'tinned' ends...  Just attach them directly to the spades on the speaker itself?

Yes, if you are going to bypass all the crossover components.

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Just be careful. Don't drop any molten solder on the cone:) Maybe protect it with a small towel or rag.

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Posted (edited)

Okay...  Hooked up the tinned leads directly to the right speaker (since I had that cabinet open already.)

 

Doing this by myself - not enough hands or helpers...  I don't have access to a test tone, but using a recording with which I'm very familiar, I did some "Better like this?  Or better like this? A vs B listening.

 

When holding the speaker wires directly to the right woofer spade terminals, the right speaker immediately got much clearer and at least somewhat louder than the left speaker, which remained as dull and listless as before....

 

Haven't unsoldered anything yet...

 

Does this help clarify the situation at all, or have I added a healthy layer of mud to the situation?

 

Thanks again!

Edited by Douglas Bubbletrousers
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Would wait to desolder until they get your test results...

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22 minutes ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

Okay...  Hooked up the tinned leads directly to the right speaker (since I had that cabinet open already.)

 

Doing this by myself - not enough hands or helpers...  I don't have access to a test tone, but using a recording with which I'm very familiar, I did some "Better like this?  Or better like this? A vs B listening.

 

When holding the speaker wires directly to the right woofer spade terminals, the right speaker immediately got much clearer and at least somewhat louder than the left speaker, which remained as dull and listless as before....

 

Haven't unsoldered anything yet...

 

Does this help clarify the situation at all, or have I added a healthy layer of mud to the situation?

 

Thanks again!

Interesting. .  .

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Went ahead an desoldered..

 

Guess my iron is weak (where have I heard that before...?)

 

Getting readings of 2.7 - 2.8 ohms from the positive to negative spade terminals..

 

Judges (a la Alex Trebek).....?

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Someone with more knowledge about what these woofers should read please jump in here. We know the voice coil is not open that's for sure and good news.

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55 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:

Looking back at your statement above.....It's hard to imagine that you blew the woofers and not the tweeters or mids, but then again, stranger things have happened....

 

You can simply de-solder the wires that are on the woofers, or just clip them off if you've got some slack.  That would be the easiest thing to do to measure the voice coils.

 

I was wondering if the incorrect fuses could have had anything to do with the situation...  The upper fuses consisted of a correct (the one correct one of the four) 1.25 amp on one side with a wad of foil on the other. 😉

 

The BOTTOM fuses were supposed to be 2.5's but both had 20 AMP fuses installed instead....

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@Marvel found an old post from you that said Re of K33 woofer is 3.39 ohms. So is Douglas's reading too low? And how could that be? Shorted windings?

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That sounds pretty low to me. Could be shorted windings. I have my k33s disconnected at the moment, I'll go check them.

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@babadono  I'm getting 3.4, with a couple of connectors along the way.

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I think the DCR is measuring okay (or close enough since we don't know the condition of the volt meter). Really, what you are looking for, in general, is if the meter reads "open" (tinsel leads damaged) or zero (shorted voice coil, perhaps).

 

BTW, if you are soldering near the wires at the woofer basket, don't keep the solder tip there longer than you need to. 

 

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So where does one go from here? If you think you have a partially shorted voice coil and you don't want to jump and buy a new one until you are certain. What about the woofer in the other cabinet? Is it reading the same?

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