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Posted
16 minutes ago, geoff. said:

...and that is where a good 2" full range driver and a pair of K-510s for a good price comes in to the mix

 

do the K-510s have the "mumps"?

I actually have a lot of experience with the 510 (The pic is my old set up). Those had mumps. gallery_47998_109_344879.png

Posted
8 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

Those had mumps. 

Have had 3 sets of 510's; 2 with mumps and 2 old ones. Never could hear any difference :) 

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Posted
3 hours ago, Heritage_Head said:

Roy do you have any advice on a passive crossover solution? 

You have a 904 lf and a 904 hf (510 horn, b&c de75/k 691 and bracket?  Hmmm…..let me see. 

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Posted
14 minutes ago, Chief bonehead said:

You have a 904 lf and a 904 hf (510 horn, b&c de75/k 691 and bracket?  Hmmm…..let me see. 

I use to..I sold them when I sold my house. Now I have 1978 La Scala that im thinking of adding 510/de75 to . I have a line on buying 510/de75 drivers. I’m wondering what my options are in terms of a crossover that would work with them (passive if possible )…Thanks 

 

Posted
On 11/6/2022 at 11:07 AM, Islander said:

Also, as Coytee pointed out many years ago, La Scalas make excellent speakers for a guy in university, for a couple of reasons.  First, they're too big to steal, and second, they're stable enough for drunk college girls to dance on them safely.

 

Of all the things I didn't do right in college, this is definitely one of them.

 

Dang it...

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Posted
On 11/6/2022 at 12:07 PM, Islander said:

First, they're too big to steal, and second, they're stable enough for drunk college girls to dance on them safely.

For the record, I'm all about safety.

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Posted

Maybe these FleaBay crossovers would work ... https://www.ebay.com/itm/324036039661?hash=item4b720d93ed:g:vacAAOSwebheFapu&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoIF9dqMCsYgYH7aYevU5yncLD%2BLvvUPIJ1kAY%2Fz%2BqcVlrYvYYahme7X0fG4Ik8BVQ%2FJ6qYz4CpaRgWmCHl6tUzIy8BhPU5uSPAF1TytNfcm5c46%2F5J15adQh5t7I7pNa1a8%2BVHwq6fnUYqONUyhR0C0hgoWuhmsfSxC7ghKyY7dQ%2BomTJbn5%2BZ2NuDn%2B%2F3LdOgqjW2ogCGszNqUuNao7fD4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8L0nvqMYQ 

 

Add-on. Seems these XO's are for dual horns. If the frequencies overlap you cannot use them ... but if they are "separate," maybe you can combine them :) 

 

You would still need a lower XO for the LaScalas - get it from (NOT ALLOWED TO MENTION) :) 

 

 

Posted
59 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

Well I’ve taken the advice of the forum, and I bought a new AVR with pre outs 😊. So active it is! 

 

Now just get it over with and buy a pair of Axi2050.  (I like to spend other people's money too. 😁 )

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Posted

So if I’m getting all this correctly I need a four channel amp (one channel for each 510/driver, and one each for the La scala bottoms)…I know next to nothing about active xos. What are the requirements? 

Posted
11 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

I know next to nothing about active xos. What are the requirements? 

At a minimum you want 2-channels in and 4 channels out.  That will allow you to biamp the two speakers.

 

This is what I did.

 

What if however, down the road, you decide you want to add a subwoofer?  You can better dial it in if you have an active...

 

This is also what I did.

 

This is when I realized I needed another active so got a second EV-DX38 since I had one and knew how to program it.  

 

Now I have two units, two plugs and decide after a couple years, I really want to simplify.  ChrisA was reporting good things about a Xilica active crossover.  So having blind faith in his opinions (which are usually good and safe bets to follow)

 

I bought a 4-in, 8 out Xilica.  Now with one unit, I can do what otherwise had taken me two units.  Save some space, simplicity....  but the values that the DX38 uses do not purely change over so if I recall, I had to do some estimations on what the EV required and how it equated to the format of the Xilica.

 

Roy, unless it's changed, used at the time (I presume he still uses) the DX-38.  It would be nice if he'd "curve" some actives so they could be literally plug & play.  If you get an EV unit, I've already posted the parameters that you'd use (with the K69a driver).

 

Once you change drivers, then you're tweaking a bit.  Some have that experience and/or tools handy, I don't so I rely more on plug & play.

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