TasDom Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 3 hours ago, Woofers and Tweeters said: Don't you have some LaScala, Khorn, and Heresy or some other project to work on or listen to? Would love to see pics of whatever is actually owned. Not an unusual request on this forum right? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Travis In Austin Posted January 25 Moderators Share Posted January 25 On 1/23/2024 at 3:32 PM, Woofers and Tweeters said: Thanks for the closeup pictures. I have no idea how much you gave for those speakers, but you got burned. Sell them to me and save yourself some frustration. JK Those look great, real keepers. Get in line bub. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 12 minutes ago, Travis In Austin said: Get in line bub. I'll step aside... they're too far north for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 On 1/23/2024 at 3:57 PM, Pak323 said: @Woofers and Tweeters THank you for your reply. The damping material on the mid range is held together with the black elastic straps. The transformer stampd 3636. see pics below. The squawker horn was wrapped to damp small resonances. If the material is not elastic and stuck securely to the horn it won't do any damping. Its presence causes no harm, though. An elastic material in close contact with the metal converts the vibration to heat and absorbs it. I will add that I applied rope caulk to the outside on my Heresy squawker horns and don't remember hearing any difference. Those K-700s are so short, they are quite stiff and would probably vibrate well above the operating band of the squawker and probably at quite low amplitude. I have never used Jantzen caps, but prefer film and foil caps over metallized. I have had some old Klipsch that needed new capacitors (causing dull, recessed sound) and one that didn't. This has lead me to postulate, without further data, that speakers that are played extensively tend not to degrade as fast as ones that are not. We have one member that has found loose or shifted cores in the inductors and/or the autoformers, but I have not. That would be a good reason to replace them. Some data to explain why crossovers might be rebuilt after several decades. Since the design was not changed in a meaningful way, I would not call yours upgraded. I would expect they will sound quite good, so enjoy! I would space them about half as far apart as you sit from them and near a wall, on the floor. Don't be afraid to add a few dB below 50 Hz, they will tolerate that within reason. I will also recommend you find some angled stands. I bought these from Madisound, they're for a Fostex BK-16 kit, but you may have to build them yourself, now. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC39693 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 Agree with @JohnA that putting "damping" material around the K-700 did not produce a noticeable change, and I've tried multiple types of material. Having said that, I think it did not decrease SQ and the cost was negligible. WRT the caps. There has been and will continue to be enough discussion around caps to fill the Internet. I offer simply from the OEM site "All Jantzen Z-caps are nitrogen filled, which means that you get more foil per capacitor and no risk of the evaporation that can occur in oil/dielectric fluid filled capacitors." Ok, well yes it's nice to not worry about evaporation or leakage of liquid. I selected those caps after much reading on University of Google. Some know of a site that does qualitative listening and commentary. That site/owners/commentators have been called some names I don't appreciate and I doubt they would either. They simply provide their impression of the sound from various caps, what you as the consumer of such information do with it is entirely up to you. For me their site provided a starting point in comparison of capacitors with a relative impression of SQ produced and subsequent continue investigation on my part for those which fit my budget and were available. WRT the word "upgraded". The forum has requested we not use that word or "updated". I simply say, changed. The other components are quality components within again a budget, eg I did not pay for someone to hand wind an air core inductor or to use precious metal foil. I purposefully did not change the scheme employed, I believe PWK created the design with significantly more capability than I have. I was attempting to return the speakers to a sound I "remembered", and compare them to other changed speakers with crossovers that have significant schematic alterations. Each has its place. The final arbiter of the word "upgraded" are the ears of the owner, @Pak323 although I believe he said these are his first of this type of speaker. I wish him much enjoyment and success in his plans to change the cabinet finish and perhaps I'll catch up to him one day and see his handy work. MC p.S. More fuel for debate club… when I sold the speakers they included 4 post homemade stands that put the squeaker at my ear height in my listening chair. The design was so a small, closed, front firing sub woofer could be placed in the bottom. Maybe not optimal from a SQ perspective but definitely helpful with WAF. I’ve tried tilting speakers, not with nice stands but just simply and did not like the result. There are good threads on the forum discussing the relative merits of various stands and indeed no stands. I hope @Pak323 can use the stands for something if not as the intended speaker stands. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 On 1/23/2024 at 5:54 PM, Woofers and Tweeters said: Lucky you. My first ones were on Heresy II, the ones in which the whole networks are on the little round terminal caps. My Heresy IIs have the square/rectangular crossovers, so yours were probably what some call the Heresy 1.5. Were yours still the plywood? Mine are veneered MDF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 3 hours ago, Marvel said: My Heresy IIs have the square/rectangular crossovers, so yours were probably what some call the Heresy 1.5. Were yours still the plywood? Mine are veneered MDF. Mine are Walnut. Do the H 1.5 have removable backs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 That I don't know. I thought the mdf ones were all just glued together. You have to access mine through the woofer cutout. Mine are black, I think black lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC39693 Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 My 1984 which I believe were the unofficial 1.5 variations have the full removable back panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 The Heresy 1,5 were Heresy 1 speakers ,all the H1 series have removable rear panels , the H II 1985 and up are sealed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 3 hours ago, Marvel said: That I don't know. I thought the mdf ones were all just glued together. You have to access mine through the woofer cutout. Mine are black, I think black lacquer. I have had 2 pairs of H1 BR and HII WO and have a pair of 1.5 waiting for me to pick up and they have removable backs. These are my HII. I remember reading something about the HII having either a round or square terminal box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWOReilly Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 1 hour ago, Woofers and Tweeters said: I have had 2 pairs of H1 BR and HII WO and have a pair of 1.5 waiting for me to pick up and they have removable backs. These are my HII. I remember reading something about the HII having either a round or square terminal box. All 5 of my HII have rectangular terminal cups. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Mine came without tags on the back. Can't remember now, but I removed a woofer and found a dated inspection sticker inside. Maybe if I was younger, I could remember the date. i'll open one up again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pak323 Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Thank you everyone for the input and advices. @MC39693 thank you for the speakers, tho you didn't sell them directly to me but you had kept them in top shape for more than 40 years. Also appreciate the upgrade history info you provided. I spent sometimes this afternon removing all the drivers and crossover networks from the cabinets. I wonder if any of you know how the motor board is attached to the box? I am wanting to remove the moto boards and properly refinish them rather than sending them attached to the box. I noticed some nail holes (by finishing nail gun) all around the edge of the motor board (see pic). I am wondering if I can just hammer the motor boards from behind, provided that they are not also glued to the sides and backing. I am hoping some of you had done that and can advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 31 minutes ago, Pak323 said: I wonder if any of you know how the motor board is attached to the box? I do not know how they are attached, nor would I remove them. I might be wrong, but I do believe that you will have a lot less trouble finishing them without removing them, let alone putting them back. A man goes to church on Easter Sunday and returns home with two black eyes. His wife asks him how he got the black eyes. Man: Old Ms. Johnson was sitting in front of me during mass, when she stood up I noticed her dress was stuck in butt crack, so I reached out and gently tugged it out. She spun around, was really mad, and punched me in the eye. Wife: That explains one black eye, what about the other one? Man: I figured she must have liked her dress stuck up in her butt crack, so when she turned around I stuffed it back up there for her. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWOReilly Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 37 minutes ago, Pak323 said: Thank you everyone for the input and advices. @MC39693 thank you for the speakers, tho you didn't sell them directly to me but you had kept them in top shape for more than 40 years. Also appreciate the upgrade history info you provided. I spent sometimes this afternon removing all the drivers and crossover networks from the cabinets. I wonder if any of you know how the motor board is attached to the box? I am wanting to remove the moto boards and properly refinish them rather than sending them attached to the box. I noticed some nail holes (by finishing nail gun) all around the edge of the motor board (see pic). I am wondering if I can just hammer the motor boards from behind, provided that they are not also glued to the sides and backing. I am hoping some of you had done that and can advise. The motorboard are stapled and maybe glued. I’ve never taken one out, but I’ve put one back. It had gotten dislodged by being shipped improperly. A block of wood, a hammer, and some glue. Fixed. You could probably knock them out the same way, but you lose the integrity of the cabinet taking it out. YMMV. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickyboy6100 Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I agree. Save yourself some heartache and take the advice of the two posts above this one. Maybe a black eye too!😁 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 My Heresy IIs, without tags on the backs. Rectangular terminal cups. Stapled on the inside, a little card with some dates. I will assume the date on the lower left, 2-22-89, is very close to the finish date. I love these speakers. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Invidiosulus Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Interesting use of internal bi-wiring with Cat-5. Those look like a great set of H1’s. I would not try to take the front panel off. Just mask off the area, sand, spray some black lacquer. Or just put the grills back on. My favorite stand for a pair of Heresy is another pair Heresy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC39693 Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 @Pak323, I can tell you that, I did not do anything to the front board, so perhaps someone else can answer from experience. As others have noted, I’d mask it off, sand, clean and paint. If you search the forum you can find the correct black paint to buy, I might have some around the house. I’m pretty sure I bought a small container at Home Depot. Keep posting pictures, I’m enjoying the journey. I searched and couldn’t find the paint, but searching the forum there’s a lot of discussion on paint. It sounds like #40 Valspar SSG Black is what you are looking for… Rona or Lowe’s may have it? Search the forum for words Valspar Black etc and you’ll find lots of discussion on the paint. I thought I bought it at Home Depot, but maybe Rona or Lowe’s all of which we have here. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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