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Lets see YOUR Home Theater:


Pako

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JHawk took these pics when he visited last year and sort of photoshoped them together. This is my family room and is used for both HT and 2-channel. The RSW12 is behind the green chair. The surrounds are not too visible in this picture and a few items have changed or are in the process. I'm trying to figure out how to incorporate the matching zebrawood heresys to replace the white RS3IIs.

post-11821-13819255509936_thumb.jpg

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You know...I asked Amy (or whomever) to sticky/pin this thread so it would always stay at the top because I thought it was a cool thread and she did. But for some reason, it didn't stick for too long. Maybe it's like the Post-It note I have that keeps falling off my CRT here at work. 9.gif

Anyhow - I hope others have gotten as much enjoyment as I have at seeing others set-ups. This is one cool thread. Thanks folks for contributing your pics. 1.gif

Tom

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Well.... this was it as of a week or two ago....

DSCN2744.jpg

DSCN2745-01.jpg

It is further along now though. I have a layer of 5/8" drywall up on the walls and two layers (5/8 and 1/2) up on the ceiling and spent all of last night mudding/tapping the walls.

I'll probably be putting another 1/2" layer up on the walls starting tonight.

The walls are all built with staggered studs so that the outside drywall isn't on same studs as the inside drywall to limited sound transmission in and out of the room.

The ceiling is built the same way. It has its own studs which are attached to the top plates of the rooms walls. This keeps the ceiling independant of the upstairs floor joists again to limit sound tranmission in and out of the rest of the house. All the walls are only connected to each other and to the concrete floor... again to limit vibration transmission into the rest of the house.

Projector is being recessed into the ceiling.

mount-studs.jpg

And will be enclosed in a hush box to keep noise levels down. It is getting cooling and exhaust air from outside of the room. The projector mount needs to pivot down to allow the projector to slide into its mount as there isn't enough room between the studs to do it alone. The projector mount studs are isolated from the upstairs floor joists with insulation and foam rubber to keep from rattling against each other.

Up front I'll have three of the LaScala bass bins with Altec 902-8B drivers on 511B horns using Al's ES600 crossovers.

For subs I'll be using a pair of these:

DSCN2750-01.jpg

loaded with a pair of JBL Sub1500s in each. The cabinet side is the same height (with feet) and same depth as the LaScalas but only 16" wide. The screen will start a few inches above the speakers/subs and there will probably be a screen wall at the front of the speakers/subs to hide them behind it.

Not sure on the screen size yet though it is going to be a 2.35 'CinemaScope' ratio screen setup for constant height for lower AR material. I was thinking 112"s but at my viewing distance I think that is just going to be too large of a screen as viewers won't really be able to see the entire screen without moving their eyes/head from side to side. That would get fatiguing after awhile I think.

Can't wait for it to be finished.....

Shawn

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Shawn,

Very nice room! Makes me itchy just looking at it. :) I built a similar room in my basement for my recording studio. Isolating all the walls and ceiling with just the floor touching. I had thought about a floating floor built on hocky-puck-like material but it would have lowered my ceiling where only short people could record there...., I have nothing against short people, it would have just lowered my market for recording artists.... :) Double 5/8" rock inside and out! Makes a huge difference. Your going to have an awesome setup and look forward to seeing the finished product!

Later

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"Makes me itchy just looking at it. "

I am still scratching a little from all that! ;)

" but it would have lowered my ceiling where only short people could record there...."

I considered the same but have about the same problem. As it is now the ceiling is at about 89" which is comfortable. Because this will also be a theater there will be a riser for the back row of seats which is going to eat up another 6-8" of headroom.

This is why I ended up recessing the projector into the ceiling. It would have hung down about 16"s from the ceiling which would make it a little touchy over that seat in the rear row. Since I'm 6'4" I worry about these sort of things. Don't want to smash my head on it and throw it out of alignment afterall. :)

With the projector recessed between the studs sort of like this:

projector-recessed.jpg

and then adding on the depth of the drywall the projector itself is only going to hang down 3-4" from the ceiling itself. I'll then be enclosing it in a sealed box to seal up the big hole this makes in the ceiling. As an additional bonus this will act like a great hush box for the projector which is good since it is a little noisy.

" Makes a huge difference. Your going to have an awesome setup and look forward to seeing the finished product!"

Thanks, I'm glad to hear building the walls and ceiling this way really helps as it certainly is a lot more of a PITA.

I started this project ages ago but ended up having to stop for quite awhile (wife had baby) and now it is a race to see if I can get it finished before my daughter starts crawling/walking. I just know she is going to crawl inside of a LaScala if I don't get it done. ;)

What did you do for a door? I was planning on building one using two sheets of MDF (or maybe Baltic Birch so I could put a nice finish on it) back to back with 1x4s as spacers around the inside between the MDF to keep them isolated. Maybe just leave nothing but air in between the two or possibly line it with dynomat or tar or something. I'm planning on putting the 1x4s at the top and bottom in a few inches from the edge so that I could basically mortise in two of these:

http://www.zerointernational.com/products/catalog/pageviewer_catalog.asp?pg=23

at the top and bottom edge of the door. The sides as well as the top again would be sealed with Zeros adjustable sound insulation weatherstripping. No latch on the door just a hydraulic closer to keep it pressed against the weatherstripping and no need for holes in the door.

Thanks,

Shawn

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Shawn,

For my doors I used outside steel skin doors with outside grade thresholds. They seal up really nice. With the studio layout, the recording room opens into the control room then out into the basement area. This gives me another cavity of air before any sound can escape. You hate to put all that material, time, and energy to isolate a room just to have all that sound transfer though the doors. The doors are definitely the weak point in the construction. They make a 95% sound proof door, but at over $500 ea...I thought money was well spent elsewhere. Those door bottoms look like they would do the trick for sure! :)

BTW - Love the mounting plan for the projector, very nice!

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"They make a 95% sound proof door, but at over $500 ea...I thought money was well spent elsewhere."

That isn't too terrible if that was prehung with all the insulation, the ones I found were closer to $2500 which was insane.

I'm hoping the door bottoms work well, they arrived a couple of days ago but I haven't taken them out of the box yet.

"BTW - Love the mounting plan for the projector, very nice!"

Thanks, it took a lot of time as it is a very tight fit in there. I lucked out in that this projectors intake is on the bottom (up when hung from the ceiling) and it exhausts out the side so the front and rear can be very close to the studs without a problem.

Very nice work on your rooms! It looks like on your walls you did full 2x4 framing for each wall with drywall in the middle, is that correct? I didn't have enough space for that so I did the staggered 2x4s on 2x6 top and bottom plates which give much more isolation then a regular wall but not as much as how you built yours.

Love the design of the wall foam! Is that just black foam triangles on a white wall? I'll be making a large purchase of that in the near future too. The slap echo is really horrible in the room right now.

Shawn

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Shawn,

The room is double 2x4 framing with double 5/8" rock on the inside and outside of the wall with a 3/4" gap in between the walls. Because of the span, I went with 2x10 ceiling framing staggered in between the floor joices. The design on the wall is your standard pyramid acoustic foam cut into triangles. The best way to cut this stuff is with your electric turkey meat cutter. No joke... :) Just a little trade secret for ya.

Oh the racket-ball echo was horrid, but adding carpet and the foam fixes it. Something else I did on the parallel walls in the studio was to reduce standing waves in the room. I built a simple jig that allowed me to rip the 2x4's corner to corner for some 8' wedges that I lag bolted onto the framing. This allows the two parallel walls to lean forward. This helps with the standing waves as they terminate in the carpet instead of bouncing back and fourth.

The coolest thing when your sound conscience about your room is constantly being aware of it's different changes. My room when from live (no walls, just concrete) to dead (full of insulation) to live (put the drywall up), back to dead (added carpet and acoustic treatment).

I have a daughter due any day now, and I expect to have this room double as a crying chamber for either the baby or the parents... LOL

~Cheers~

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"This allows the two parallel walls to lean forward.  This helps with the standing waves as they terminate in the carpet instead of bouncing back and fourth."

With no parallel walls you won't even get standing waves to as much of a degree. I intentionally didn't exactly square up my walls or make them perfectly level for this very reason too.

I'm also going to have a nice advantage in the near future as I'll be upgrading my Lexicon to v4 software which listens for the resonances (aka standing wave peaks) in the room from each channel and applies parametric filters to help deal with them.

Then lots of foam on the walls to make it as dead as possible.

"My room when from live (no walls, just concrete) to dead (full of insulation) to live (put the drywall up), back to dead (added carpet and acoustic treatment)."

I heard that. If I wasn't trying to isolate the room from the rest of the house I was tempted to put up acoustic cloth over the framing shown in those pictures above. All the fiberglass really made the room very dead. Now that the drywall is back up it is very live again.

"I have a daughter due any day now,"

Congratulations! Mine is a little over 8 months old now.

Shawn

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Great systems guys!!! I love looking at them all. Keep them coming. There must be more out there! Here are some pictures of the start of my front projection setup. This is currently my second system (the main one posted earlier in the thread).

Front

fpfrontview2.jpg

Back View

fprearview1.jpg

Crappy Screen Shot

fpkillbill2.jpg

Laters,

Jeff

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----------------

On 7/24/2004 4:24:34 PM eq_shadimar wrote:

Great systems guys!!! I love looking at them all. Keep them coming. There must be more out there! To encourage posting here are some pictures of the start of my front projection setup. This is currently my second system (the main one posted earlier in the thread).

Front

Back View

Crappy Screen Shot

Laters,

Jeff

----------------

pretty nice there.

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