Hi @Full Range, thanks for the reference. An interesting topic.

Active crossovers are probably the only way to better the latest passive crossovers coming stock from Klipsch on current models.

They fixed it in February. JJK  

Vertical and horizontal dispersion are real factors to consider, so doing a little experimentation with height risers, toe-in, and tilt won’t hurt.

2024 was busy audio wise - completed restorations of a pair of Belles and Khorns; setup NAS's in separate locations accessible by all my audio systems and uploaded all my hard media to them; designed and built a custom audio rack; progressed on veneer matched tapped horn subs for the Belle's; and made progress on my main audio room and system.    Wish I could take some time off but can't - need to finish the Belle tapped sub horns along with a DSP setup to integrate them with the Belles, progress on or perhaps finish the main audio room, which includes moving and installing 16 speaker cabinets (all VERY large) from the old location to the new. Moving all that is a daunting task, so I am considering instead designing and building new speakers for my main systems and leave the others in place...I dunno.    Retirement and hobbies can be lethal to your bank account, free time and marriage.

Hi @MicroMara, thanks for your reply and schematic. It is more complex than I expected. 

No complaints here.  Except for the weather.  Is it Spring yet?

I merged this thread with the one you started in Jan. of last year on the same subject so you, and everyone can follow along with the chronology.    I don't think you are going to find many folks here, or in other audio forums, that are going to have modifications for brand new Cornwall IVs that actually own CW IVs and have actually done the modifications.    There are dozens of posts by people about modifications on CW IVs, but they are ALL ads for selling you or someone else's wares.    By the way, in audio, like a lot of things, asking someone if they have tried a change and found a benefit rarely provides you with any useful information unless it is accompanied by measurements or an objective comparison. "Objective comparison" means a well set up blind test.    Floyd Toole has written extensively on this, sighted comparisons of speakers on preference are absolutely useless. Doesn't matter what the experience level or background of the listener is. This area is called "Psychoacoustics" if you want to dig deeper into it. Our brains will tell us something is different whether it is or it isn't.   This was echoed by the Father of Acoustics, Leo Beranek: Beranek's Law It has been remarked that if one selects his own components, builds his own enclosure, and is convinced he has made a wise choice of design, then his own loudspeaker sounds better to him than does anyone else's loudspeaker. In this case, the frequency response of the loudspeaker seems to play only a minor part in forming a person's opinion. L.L. Beranek, Acoustics (McGraw-Hill, New York, 1954), p.208   The only way to know for sure is a blind test. On the changes you are talking about, 100% of the people can't pick out a difference better than chance (guessing), and if there are one or two who can identify a difference, their preference is across the board, no correlation to the "improvement"   You can purchase modifications that will cause enough of a change that almost 100% can tell a difference. Whether it's an improvement requires a well-set-up blind test (volume matching, etc.) to see if the preference is the original or the modification. Why? Because people who spend money on something that changes the sound of their speakers will ALWAYS say it sounds better.    It's why PWK insisted on measurements, why he figured out a way to accurately measure distortion in speakers, identified the different types of distortion, why he built an anechoic chamber in his lab, why he published his curves with his speakers, etc.     If you want to sort out the Bullshit from the people who are trying to sell you the latest, greatest modifications, upgrades, etc. ask for the curves/measurements on the before/after. If they say, oh well . . . you know what, never mind.    This is what you do. Go out and buy some $100 per foot, heavy gauge wire, and rewire one of your speakers, have a friend/family member set them up so you don't know which is which, and then listen to them, left, right, etc. Pick which one sounds better. Repeat that 3x or 3 weeks (each fime a friend or family member changes up the speakers). You are truly blind and give it a fair shot. (You may need to determine if there is a room preference for left and right, but that's a different story for another time).   The other thing you can do is get an active crossover for one side, and 6 channels of amplification, and see about the differences you can make with that and what your preference are on slope, crossover points, and EQ. You can tinker to your heart's content and never mess up the original design.     

I've never measured frequency before, I'd hate to do any damage if it's even possible hooking up my very basic voltmeter to the terminals, I was just wondering if it may have been my Denon X8500H AVR as the pre-amp signal could've suddenly become noisier on the Left & Right pre-outs, I know most unlikely but anything is possible, I'll see how I go diagnosing the issue with the tests you noted above, thanks so much for your advice, it's greatly appreciated.

Nah way too early to say that.