I bought a pair years ago..thought one of the woofers was shot also. Turned out that ginormous magnet had shifted and had the woofer frozen up. You can carefully cut the dust cover off and look to see if that has happened to yours also. If it is you can use a dead blow hammer and shims to get it back where it should be then super glue the magnet back to the basket. It’s a little tedious to get it properly aligned. 

The Forte versions have a passive radiator on the rear, so you would  need a few inches out from the wall.   An original pair of Chorus have front firing ports, instead of a PRs. Passives work as ports, but provide smoother response. I would look for a nice pair of original Chorus, with ports on the front. Don't get me wrong, the newer models are better than the earlier versions, but you are limited in placement.   Welcome to the madness!

I agree and mentioned to Roy at the time I heard a small difference and that it reminded me of when I would experiment and bypass the L.SHELF @ (FREQ:2.5kHz) (LEVEL: -1.00db) Filter when using the EV Dx38 but I definitely thought it was nice sounding in the short time we had with it.   Now after all these years we know one reason why some perceived a difference I believe.   miketn🙂

They should be the same specs. Some might suggest buying the pair and selling the single good one you have. Or... using the two you buy and keeping the one you ready have as a spare.

I’m using four of these little mini shakers per seat x4  with excellent results , Ive used much larger ones in the past  , but my leather recliners were a very tight fit with lots of moving parts, small was important  in this case , the effect  is the best I’ve ever had , subtlety  is important , as well as being able to spread out the effect somewhat evenly throughout the seat .A very  powerful subwoofer system with an integrated shaker setup can be very  impressive in home theater.

Very interesting, I've not encountered these before. Perhaps many, like myself are unfamiliar with them.

You’re right not much interest here , but I think they are  a big  upgrade to home theater. I’ve used various transducers for many years , the bottom  line is that you just can’t get the huge  tactile effect without them , unless you’re willing to play bass at 140 db , and that’s not going to happen .  A freight train going down the tracks, earthquakes nuclear bombs and 155 mm artillery are represented with superior impact and realism hands down , no comparison. But to get the job done right , the tactile response must feel absolutely natural, this means that body coverage must be fairly uniform and the amplitude must be delivered with precision, otherwise the listener will be aware of a shaker in the seat , and that is absolutely not what you want . Subtlety is the key to success. 

Here are the simulated Transfer Function Curves of the LF and HF of Roy’s EV Dx38 Program Parameters and the Yamaha SP-2060 with the suggested Parameters I have posted.   I know it takes some efforts to compare these graphs since the editors present them differently but if you look at the 1kHz, 2kHz, 5kHz and 10kHz points you can form a sense of how small the differences are now with the suggested programming I have provided if someone wants to use Roy’s original voicing.        

Busy couple days.  Both LS cabinets almost ready for the next step.  Final sanding and cleaning up.  Then on to "Plum Mahogany Revisited" 🔥

NOTE: With a L.SHELF FILTER and specifically this one with it’s (LEVEL: -10dB set-point) the frequency spectrum levels are bound/locked between it’s (0.00dB and -10.0dB) Levels. The Yamaha SP-2060 L.SHELF Filter’s Q/Bandwidth appears to be wider than the EV Dx38’s L.SHELF Filters so the effect is as you lower the L.SHELF (FREQ: Set-Point) the upper end of the spectrum rises closer to the 0.00dB level and the lower end of the spectrum reaches the -10dB level at a lower frequency point. The Bandwidth Shape is fixed and just shifts/slides its level effects to different frequencies points.    If you look at the Differential Data in my charts for the different Yamaha SP-2060 L.SHELF (FREQ: Set-Points) you will see the level effects at the 1kHz, 2kHz, 5kHz and 10kHz points.   As far as any shrill sound that could be many things (like for example if the LF isn’t balanced properly with the HF) but with this knowledge he has the option to try these different set-points and pick whichever he likes best. He will now have a reference point and can experiment for the sound he prefers. Also we all know some recordings are shrill and they have to be ruled out as the possible issue as well because high resolution systems will expose recording faults easily compared to lower resolution systems.   miketn