Blvdre

VAC or VDC is fine. To calculate voltage equivalency, you would divide the VAC rating by 1.4 to calculate an equivalent VDC, or multiply the VDC rating by .7 for an equivalent VAC. Crossover caps typically have lots of headroom where voltages are concerned, and if you go to from, say a 250 VAC cap to a 250 VDC cap, you've increased your voltage headroom.

This. I bought an either refurbished or open box RSB-11 a couple of years ago from an authorized dealer. When it arrived, I found that the woofer voice coil was knocked out of alignment during shipping. I contacted customer service and was directed to send the faulty sub back for repair or exchange (can't remember which). Klipsch paid for all shipping and repair costs, updated me via e-mail as service progressed, and the new (or repaired) unit has been working without trouble for a couple of years now. Pretty good customer service in my experience.

This one? https://gizmodo.com/5025867/horn-subwoofer-takes-up-crazy-mans-entire-basement

That's what happens when I skim. I blame my eyes; they dart around like they're late for an appt.

I think Schu was implying that the driver might be wired out of phase for a reason. Not saying that's the case, but it's not uncommon, depending on the crossover design.

I'm confused; in a 21 hour old post, you stated that you already hooked this system up at your home? Is this a replacement? if so, let us know how it goes. Hopefully the woofer output will be improved. Sorry, I don't have an answer to your question about the R-10SWi.

It's really a woofer, not a subwoofer, and I get a surprising amount of output from mine in an average sized living room (placed in a corner). It sounds like something's wrong with your unit.

I think Klipsch decided that the market wasn't there for the 15, but not positive about that. There was a thread about it a while ago.

I think the 15" version (which was scrapped) were called the 15.

6" woofers, is my guess.

Thankful that I never have to read another ishwash rant again 👍

Not a 510 horn (EAW), but a nice paint job nonetheless.

You can't beat that kind of customer service.

No updated mid-horn, Just a new tweeter & tweeter horn (tractrix). I know, right?

Sure, but you could use a rubber friction tape around the top edge of the risers. Something that won't mark up the veneer.

Bob Crites has the correct slant risers: https://critesspeakers.com/heresy-slant-risers.html

A deburring tool might get rid of that flash. Do you have a pic?

I disagree with the generalization that tubes smear. I've owned a Wright-Audio 2A3, and still run a pair of Don Allen SEPs. I would describe these amps as tonally natural with very good transient response. I understand, though, that low power doesn't suit your needs. The only MOSFET amp I've owned was a CJ MF-80, and definitely not over-etched; smooth and natural, a very nice amp.

....but they should last for a reasonable amount of time. I'm still doing OK with my sound bar (fingers crossed), and my La Scalas are happy with my very reliable Don Allen tube amp.

Sorry about that, Jimbo; I missed it. You have to admit, it was a pretty terrible joke, so I should get a pass. And yes, a lot of the time I'm super-boring.

I think it's interesting and informative. You've added nothing to the discussion, so are in fact boring.

Commonsense Audio drivers (Audio Nirvana) have a good rep. A pair of the Classic 6.5s is $200:

Floor & ceiling bounce?

Those connections are under stress. Redo!