JohnA

Here's what I have done. The woofer inductor can be the 2.5 mH Klipsch used and it can be an iron core, but I'd go with 16 ga. The squawker inductor is there to knock down the 9k response return of the K-55-V a few dB. Use a 2 UF tweeter cap; it knocks down a 6k to 8k hump in the tweeter's response. Note that the speaker is still bright with these settings; the woofer running at 93-94 dB, squawker at 95 dB and tweeter at 96 dB.

My H IVs swat H700s and H Is on vocals. They are not as bright/light sounding as H Is but much better balanced and realistic.

Zitan , Where do you live? Soldering at this level is easy and cheap. No crossover redesign is warranted. You are not too likely to hear much difference for less than the value of the speakers. Replace, or have a local electronics shop replace the capacitors with nice film and foil caps. Expect around $80 per speaker for the caps, but $500 per speaker could be spent. A constant impedance network is of no value to solid-state amps. SET, yes, but for almost any others, no. The simple networks in a Heresy I cause minimal phase shift and the components are tough enough to use them. I'd keep them; I've kept mine. John Allen's A-55-G measures better than a K-55-V. Some even think it sounds better. I think I read they were all out of stock until 2021 sometime. Keep your K-55. B&C DE120 based tweeters are smoother and sillier sounding than a K-77-?. They are a real upgrade for your Heresies. To get the most out of it, the horn mouth must be flush with the front of the cabinet. I'm running Fastrac tweeter horns that flush mount and like them a lot. DaveA's latest iteration.of his tweeter horn is fabulously well made, tests well and everybody likes them. They flush mount, too. If your woofers don't rattle or make funny noises, they are good. Keep them. A Klipsch employee told me a Heresy III/IV. woofer, K-28? Would be an upgrade. Better to check all the cabinet joints for dried out glue and leaks than to replace a working woofer.

My heartfelt sympathy for your loss. It is not easy to go on, but we do. We will happily help. As noted, give us a list of the speakers or pics of the tags on the backs. They will have a model name like KB-WO and a serial number like 17W231. One of our members maintains a spreadsheet of selling prices that will be big help.

They did a nice job with the audio system in a Ford Expedition we rented last week. Unlike the Blose system in my last 2 Mazdas.

I'd say go buy it, also. I had a Yamaha CA-800. It was switchable to class A (8 watts). There was a small but noticeable difference in Class A.

Try 1-800-KLIPSCH. Its not listed on the web site anymore but I think it still works.

Yes. The diodes chop off the waveform going to the tweeter at about 2 watts. The result is a harsh, hashy sound that is unpleasant. The original K-77 had to have them when larger SS amps got popular. K-77-Ms need them in pro use and it one of the reasons people hate La Scalas when used in bars. 40 watts is +16 dBW. +105 dB/w/m = 121 dB continuous. That is more than your ears can take.

http://www.woofertester.com/wt2product.htm https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dats-v3-computer-based-speaker-audio-component-test-system--390-807

The only way to tell is to try them. Mostly blarney. Tighter connections with the wall socket is good, less resistance from larger actual contact area. Shielding could be good. Do you live beside a high power radio station? Are the power supplies in your electronics defective? IOW, is there a *reason* to need shielded power cords? My house actually has a separate (isolated?) safety ground bus. Never saw that before. Does yours? Otherwise, I don't think you would benefit much since the neutral is connected to the same ground bus. How large are the conductors in the cords? I wouldn't bother if they weren't 14 ga or heavier, even if they were cheap. The OEM cords are all the units need.

I had a pair of KG2s that sounded a little dull and I recalled them for a minor improvement. I changed the tweeter caps in my 20-y.o. La Scalas to make them match and the improvement was definite. Later, changing the Squawker caps to the same Hovland Musicaps was inaudible. 🐒 I had one '67 and one '68 H700. The '68 was laid-back and distant, calm. Changing the caps woke it up. The '67 sounded good all along, so I never changed its caps. Listen and if they do not sound forward and alive, out in the room, you should probably change the caps to high quality film and foil types. Avoid metalized. That's probably why I'm not that impressed with my KG2s.

Everything you want to know is in the 2-Channel Section. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161759-klipsch-heritage-codes/

Since a passive radiator moves as a piston, flexibility is not very important. I have used Elmers paper glue, successfully. Use barely enough. Adding reinforcement with a barely big enough piece of cigarette paper or paper towel cannot hurt. Be sure to extend the reinforcement past the end of the year (about 1/4 of the tear length should be enough). Since you say the hole can be closed from the back side and is almost invisible, it is most probable is was penetrated from the outside, not torn from playing loud

The leads to the diodes are soldered to the spade for the tweeter. You can't just remove the spade. You can unbolt one of the diodes with a small wrench, ~3/8", and let it hang. Too easy not to try.

Mostly. The K-77/T-35 has a hair-sized lead to the terminal and a power rating of 2W continuous, 20W program and 40W instantaneous. The K-77-M/T-35A has the same diaphragm as a T-350, with a ribbon lead and a 5/50/100W rating. *FOR HOME USE* the KLiP diodes may be removed or disabled (unbolt one and let it hang). For pro or outdoor use, you need them. When they operate, the tweeter produces a square wave and that sounds hashy, irritating. Doesn't look like i have the T-350 Cut Sheet on this PC.

Disconnect one of the KLiP diodes in the network giving trouble and retest. If that's not it, isolate the tweeter inductor and measure its resistance and inductance (disturb it as little possible so you don't change any defect it might have). Retest. If that isn't it, test the ESR of each tweeter cap. If you can't measure ESR, replace the caps one at a time with high quality film and foil caps. I predict it is the diodes. If you are not running AlNiCo K-77 tweeters, disable them in all of your La Scalas.

I'm driving my Heresy IVs with a refurbished SA-300 in a 12' x 18' room. My source is a netbook for streaming and discs. My college SA-200 is in my 400' garage driving Auratone 5CTVs with an Ocean Digital WR03. The WR-03 is a great adapter that works and sounds very well. A 2-channel system in the gaming end of your room would be great. I'd look at Heresy IV or Forte.

Air guitar. Loud.

If you want to learn: https://www.parts-express.com/loudspeaker-design-cookbook-7th-edition-book--500-035 You also will need measurement and modelling software. Xover Pro is easy. https://www.parts-express.com/x-over-3-pro-software-cd-rom--500-919 This replaced WooferTester at PE, though WT is still available. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dats-v3-computer-based-speaker-audio-component-test-system--390-807 REW is often recommended for response measurement.

Just make the front 3 match. A good horn on a B&C DE120 is a smooth, silky tweeter and I like that much better than a K-77-M speaking through a hole. The AL-3 is a pretty good network. ALK Universals runs the tweeters hot; too much for my ears. With K-55-Ms, or solder terminal -Vs, you don't need to lower the crossover point for the tweeter. If your speakers sound polite, or reserved/laid back, you probably need new capacitors. Otherwise, convert one of your ALs to an AL-3.

A flat file. You may have to flip the plug to control hum from a ground loop. Yes, polarized plugs are a safety measure, but a polarized 2-prong plug and an unpolarized plug from years ago are wired the same internally. Three prong plugs (with a safety ground for the chassis) are wired differently inside.

Or, ..... just use the OEM caps and enjoy. Not all old caps need replacement.

Wow! You really drug up an ooold post. My answer is it depends. It depends on heat basically. Lower impedance draws additional current from the amp at a given volume knob setting. More current makes more heat. Keep the volume reasonable and the heat will less than the amp's heat sinks can dissipate, protecting the output transistors. Crank it hard and you'll let the magic blue smoke out. I had a KA-7100 with Kenwood KT-5300 tuner in college, driving Marantz Imperial 7 speakers. I liked it. Might like one again.

Have you called 1-800-KLIPSCH? I haven't seen you write anything simple, so you might have to work on it, like "I'm having trouble with my 'x'. The subwoofer won't connect. What do I do." Have SN and receipt at hand. Prolly get an exchange. I can't explain having trouble contacting Klipsch, but their Customer Service is usually very good.

My '67 and '68 H700s had those same components. They will sound like the other Heresies through 1979.