JohnA

My FH-1s came with Peavey BW 1504-4 woofers. All I could find said they all did. It was tough and could be reconed in the field in about 5 minutes. BUT, .... harmonic distortion at 100 Hz and be!ow exceeded the fundamental. A K-33-* should work beautifully in an FH-1, maybe it is a K-33 c!one?

I got to hear early AK4 Klipschorns in Indy, in 2002 or '03 along with the corresponding Belle Klipsch and La Scalas. They should sound excellent, if sealed to the corners and if your room does not have an odd sound of its own. What are you hearing that you don't like? do you have any measuring equipment?

I'm not following very well. A desk(top) system has to be smaller. Yet, you mentioned towers. What do you want to do with it? Do you want to watch movies? Stream movies/music? Computer audio? A 3.1 system would yield the biggest bang for the least space and cost. You even could add rear speakers later.

It all looks remarkably original to me, including the original Klipsch woofers. Now that I think about it, I've never had speakers that actually used more than 4 screws, even pro gear. It is/was an engineering decision that also saves money. Why would you think that is bad? It is highly likely the screws are machine screws run through T-nuts. Pull one and see. Make sure all are retightened to the same torque. You should expect to see an increase in resistance through wires and a connection (or 2). Until recently, all Klipsch networks were wired point to point. What's wrong with that? Bob Crites does sell replacement woofers. His are built to the Thiele-Small parameters used over 40 years ago. Your networks are tuned to get the best response out of the newer woofer. I would not change them, you have no information on the result. Would you be willing to do the testing required to determine if new woofers were better and to adjust the crossovers to match?

This looks like a Shorthorn Model T. Perhaps the Museum would want it? @JRH? I'll kick in to help pay. https://www.estatesales.net/AR/Little-Rock/72212/2691033

Pioneer was JUNK in the '70s and I wouldn't keep it if you gave it to me! Eewwww.

Yes, you can remove the amp and wire directly to the crossover. But, WOW, doesn't the. 2nd pic look like it was dropped?!?! Is that one side coming loose from the side of the bass horn?

Letter code serial numbers are not typically used on the Industrial line. H-D-12 likely means Decorator, an unfinished cabinet to make them cheaper.

Pure stock Heresy Ones! They should sound a little bright and forward, but crisp and detailed. If not, and all of the drivers are working, you probably need new capacitors. Klipsch and Heresies in particular do not sound polite or reserved. Buy very good film and foil caps. Solen makes some. Solen metallized film caps are cheap and while surprisingly good, your Heresies deserve better (metallized seem to sound gritty, brittle especially when loud). All three drivers can be renewed with new diaphragms if they have failed, no worries. "E" is for Export and as you can see, the importer's name is on the tags. They are not different from Heresies sold any where else.

It IS an Eminence woofer that uses the same frame that a K-33-E uses, made in 1979. That does not mean it has anything else in common with a K-33-E. In fact, it may have been used as a direct radiator as is typical of Peavey. Look for an ink stamped part number on the cone and call Eminence to see what it really is. Ask them, but I'd guess it could be reconed with a K-33-E kit and become one.

Adequate: http://ccs.exl.info/installation/crossovers-installation-tweaking/crossover-calculators/#first Better: https://www.parts-express.com/x-over-3-pro-software-cd-rom--500-919 I use X-over Pro and like it's modelling capacity. A good response curve does not come from just changing a calculated crossover point.

1984, and what we, here, call Heresy 1.5s. They likely have Heresy II squawkers.

K-55-V and Type AA mean pre-1982 (possibly mid-year 1982). K-77-M means post 1979. Since they are pro models, you might not get closer than that.

Bring flowers on the first date.

Steppenwolf Live

I do agree!

KFS Y2K, What you're doing wrong is cluttering up the signal path with a bunch of unnecessary junk. R-51PMs have a power amp. The Magni is a power amp. You can't use both. Save the Magni for your headphones. All you really need is a single audio cable from the computer to the R-51PMs. I doubt you need any EQ, unless you have the test gear to determine how to EQ your speakers flat. Anything above an Atom has more then enough excess processing power to convert digital to analog in the fly.

Here's what I have done. The woofer inductor can be the 2.5 mH Klipsch used and it can be an iron core, but I'd go with 16 ga. The squawker inductor is there to knock down the 9k response return of the K-55-V a few dB. Use a 2 UF tweeter cap; it knocks down a 6k to 8k hump in the tweeter's response. Note that the speaker is still bright with these settings; the woofer running at 93-94 dB, squawker at 95 dB and tweeter at 96 dB.

My H IVs swat H700s and H Is on vocals. They are not as bright/light sounding as H Is but much better balanced and realistic.

Zitan , Where do you live? Soldering at this level is easy and cheap. No crossover redesign is warranted. You are not too likely to hear much difference for less than the value of the speakers. Replace, or have a local electronics shop replace the capacitors with nice film and foil caps. Expect around $80 per speaker for the caps, but $500 per speaker could be spent. A constant impedance network is of no value to solid-state amps. SET, yes, but for almost any others, no. The simple networks in a Heresy I cause minimal phase shift and the components are tough enough to use them. I'd keep them; I've kept mine. John Allen's A-55-G measures better than a K-55-V. Some even think it sounds better. I think I read they were all out of stock until 2021 sometime. Keep your K-55. B&C DE120 based tweeters are smoother and sillier sounding than a K-77-?. They are a real upgrade for your Heresies. To get the most out of it, the horn mouth must be flush with the front of the cabinet. I'm running Fastrac tweeter horns that flush mount and like them a lot. DaveA's latest iteration.of his tweeter horn is fabulously well made, tests well and everybody likes them. They flush mount, too. If your woofers don't rattle or make funny noises, they are good. Keep them. A Klipsch employee told me a Heresy III/IV. woofer, K-28? Would be an upgrade. Better to check all the cabinet joints for dried out glue and leaks than to replace a working woofer.

My heartfelt sympathy for your loss. It is not easy to go on, but we do. We will happily help. As noted, give us a list of the speakers or pics of the tags on the backs. They will have a model name like KB-WO and a serial number like 17W231. One of our members maintains a spreadsheet of selling prices that will be big help.

They did a nice job with the audio system in a Ford Expedition we rented last week. Unlike the Blose system in my last 2 Mazdas.

I'd say go buy it, also. I had a Yamaha CA-800. It was switchable to class A (8 watts). There was a small but noticeable difference in Class A.

Try 1-800-KLIPSCH. Its not listed on the web site anymore but I think it still works.

Yes. The diodes chop off the waveform going to the tweeter at about 2 watts. The result is a harsh, hashy sound that is unpleasant. The original K-77 had to have them when larger SS amps got popular. K-77-Ms need them in pro use and it one of the reasons people hate La Scalas when used in bars. 40 watts is +16 dBW. +105 dB/w/m = 121 dB continuous. That is more than your ears can take.