JohnA

Or, ..... just use the OEM caps and enjoy. Not all old caps need replacement.

Wow! You really drug up an ooold post. My answer is it depends. It depends on heat basically. Lower impedance draws additional current from the amp at a given volume knob setting. More current makes more heat. Keep the volume reasonable and the heat will less than the amp's heat sinks can dissipate, protecting the output transistors. Crank it hard and you'll let the magic blue smoke out. I had a KA-7100 with Kenwood KT-5300 tuner in college, driving Marantz Imperial 7 speakers. I liked it. Might like one again.

Have you called 1-800-KLIPSCH? I haven't seen you write anything simple, so you might have to work on it, like "I'm having trouble with my 'x'. The subwoofer won't connect. What do I do." Have SN and receipt at hand. Prolly get an exchange. I can't explain having trouble contacting Klipsch, but their Customer Service is usually very good.

My '67 and '68 H700s had those same components. They will sound like the other Heresies through 1979.

Power supply fuses, before the power supply capacitors? No.

Well, been there and done all of that. Here's what I did and would do again: - Replace the capacitors with a very good quality film and foil cap, not metalized. Metalized are OK, you want better. - Replace the squawker driver with early '80s solder terminal K-55-Vs. They respond well up to 6k. Alternatively, you could use Allen A-55-Gs. - Wrap the squawker horn with Dynamat, or similar viscoelastic sheet. Kills an edge you don't know you have till it's gone. Play Thelma Houston, loud, and touch the horn throat to see why. - Flush mount the tweeters using K-77-Fs(?), Fastrac tweeter horns, Dave's improved MAHL, or Similar and B&C DE120 drivers and defeat/remove the KLiP diodes. This will change the character of the speaker, but it will be a smooooooth sound you should like. - Stuff the upper cabinet tightly with fiberfil. Rap the cabinet top with your knuckles to see why. K-402/K69(?) and electronic crossover would be the BOMB! But what a sure, ugly beasty she'd be!

I think the shades will be fairly close. I have Cherry Heresy IVs. they are a light honey color. I also wouldn't sweat the Parasound. Their amps used to be Class AB biased deeper into Class A than many. My HCA-1205 ran in Class A to 1.25 watts. If yours is similar, you may be listening to a Class A amp most of the time. Call and ask.

Hi Gary, Found a bit of Blarney, didja? I have some interconnects like that. They are Vampire Wire. They were described to me as having 2 conductors and a shield. The shield is only bonded at the preamp end to avoid ground loops.

Well, Thebes, you can really find 'em! since then is no fuse commonly in the signal path, ....... And You KNOW AC power goes both ways, right. I'm too old, anymore. 😉.

The false corners should be reflective, not a bass trap. Use your bass traps in other places in the room. It does look like a tough room.

TubeCube at $180? If so, here's what I'd do. Buy another Tube Cube. Buy 3 Y-adapters and a resistor. Split your preamp out with 2 Ys and feed your 1st amp as normal. Use the 3rd Y to combine the extra preamp outs back into one (mono). Feed that to one of the 2nd TubeCube channels and power your Heresy. Use volume knob to match level. Attach resistor across the unused amp channel, "just in case". Make sure your Heresy matches the components in your La Scalas and reconfigure the Heresy network to match what is in your La Scalas, I.e. similar to a Type HIE. I'll give you my design if you have Type AA La Scalas.

There is a decoder ring in another forum (2 channel?), but I'm pretty sure those were made in 1984.

My H IVs took about 40 hours of Dubstep with the bass boosted and at less than totally obnoxious levels, in a closed up room. There was a noticeable difference after 24 hours.

What's wrong with the woofers? Fortes were rated for 100 watts max. I'd expect the IIs are the same. If you are going for 2-channel, Look at very good quality Receivers and Integrated Amps from Yamaha, Marantz, Cambridge, Denon, Sony ES, .... Since you are looking to damage your hearing, go for something around 100 watts/channel, 20 to 20k Hz, all channels driven at x% distortion per the old FTC rating procedure. FWIW, the only time I ever damaged ANY speakers was with too much power over too long a time period. I melted the voice coils in 4 subwoofer drivers, at one time.

Pull that trigger!!!!!

I agree. I can often hear distortion in 256k tracks riding my motorcycle. Even 320k destroys the stereo image, re: "Blackwater" by The Doobies.

I rarely use or recommend stands. Many speakers need the boundary reinforcement of the floor and walls. And really should be designed for it so they will sound right in a real room. H IVs have a better squawker and crossover than the HIIIs. They also (just barely) don't need a subwoofer(s), saving you a bundle. I, too, am powerfully impressed with FIIIs. If I could fit them in, they'd be my choice. But, in the end, I chose H IVs for my instrument room largely because of size. I love them more each time I sit and listen. The port on the rear of an H IV is identical in function to the passive radiator on the rear of the FIII. To accept one and not the other is odd. Both will need several inches of distance off the rear wall. And both vibrate out of phase with the woofer, but putting the resonant wave on the back of the cabinet keeps the pressure pulses in phase with the woofer. What's not to like?

Package them so nothing can contact the cone or suspension. Then, short the terminals so the voice coil and magnet act like a motor and resist motion when the shipping monkey tosses them into the truck.

This can be a complicated subject if you try to be too analytical. I would not put a capacitor in a Heresy or Forte that I wouldn't put in a Belle Klipsch or Klipschorn. I like the sound of film and foil caps a schooch better than metalized.

Yes, but..... I did it with a 500 hz 2-way passive crossover and my La Scalas and a 902 (that has better HF output). Khorns will not quite get to 500 hz and the 802/902 driver needs a very steep crossover to safely run at 500 hz. 12 dB/Oct was not enough. AND, the sound was not substantially different. While the Altec gear is excellent, especially in the middle, so is the K-55/K-400. I think the Altec HF was the 2-way system Mr. Paul referenced in his AES paper on the La Scalas.

I've had speakers that went both ways. Putting Holand Musicaps in my La Scalas cleaned up a lot of sounds and did not make them too bright. I had an H700 from 1968 that did not need new caps. If your La Scalas sound big and forward, out in the room, not recessed or distant, the caps were good enough.

At least he earned you! While I agree with Dean, if the electrolytics are parallel to the vwoofer, I don't use them. They need to be "reformed" after the sit and become delinquent.

A light application of Elmer's and at most a small patch of cigarette paper is Al you need for that repair. OTOH, it probably isn't hurting anything as is.

Bob's your uncle!!! Spend your money on new tubes and a tune-up/refurbishment of what you have.

Have you built your room? If not, consider non-parallel walls. i built the room in the sketch in my basement in a previous house and the results were just excellent. Berber carpet on the floor and heavy, insulated curtains behind my La Scalas for a "dead" front wall. That end of the basement became a bedroom and Listening Room with a 100 degree wall between them. And no, the X was not allowed to speak in there. 😉 If you have to build false walls to get one or two walls angled, you can use that space for equipment and unclutter the room, especially between the speakers.