WMcD

I have a Pavilion g7 running Win7 on which I did not perform the free upgrade to Win10 as offered a couple of years ago. Supposedly that was a one-time offer. Not so. Now Win7 is no longer supported and I get a nag every now and then. However, an article attributed to Forbes (you can Google) gave instructions to get the free upgrade right now, 2020. You must have a legit copy of Win7 installed. The instructions have a link to a media creator utility. It works with some caveats. When trying to install the system file directly on the Win7 computer there is an error about a modem issue. MS is going to let me know when the problem is solved. Ha. But I used the listed alternative to download the file to a USB flash drive to another computer. I did that to a Win10 computer and put the flash drive in the Win7 computer. Using the file utility I found the setup.exe on the flash ran it as administrator. No need to set things up to boot from the USB. These downloads took a long time (hours)using my DSL line. It will seemingly hang at e.g. 47% but it is just a matter of big files, small pipe IMHO. It advises that third-party utilities meant for Win7 and which will not run on Win10 get deleted (true). There is choice to not delete programs and personal file. That worked too. I'm a happy camper. I don't see anything to indicate this is not total legit as far as MS is concerned. During the installation they offer a license and I accepted.

Nice work. What woofer is that? I see an American flag which is used by Eminence IIRC. You seem to have plenty of room in the dog house with almost an inch of clearance on either side. I read that some of Bob Crites' woofers don't fit if only by a smidge. They must be close, though. Did you widen the design of the dog house? WMcD

I had my FII in my small, square office. They were toed in in the corners with the back edges of the speakers up against the walls. Therefore there was a triangular channel in back of them. The sound was wonderful. No boom or bloat. OTOH the office had a suspended ceiling and above it a huge area about four feet high which communicated to the rest of the offices in the suite. My thought was that for bass freqs the ceiling was very, very large. Additionally there was a door in the corner. I think there are no pat answers although toe-in and corners are a big help. With toe-in IMHO you are as much aiming away from walls as you are aiming toward the listener. WMcD

Don't say bad things about amusement parks. Some of my ancestors survived the depression as electricians at Coney Island. It is in zeee bloood.

I had purchased a very much used Volvo 1800S back in college. Beautiful car. It had a horizontal door at the filler cap. It had lock with a rotating cover which had broken off and this made the keyway open to the element. One morning after a freezing rain it would not start and I found water ithe fuel pump. Naturally I looked at the fuel filler assembly. I tried the lock and was able to insert the key but the disk tumbler mechanism was jammed with ice, I thought. People know that the inefficient way of thawing out a lock is to put the flame of a match to the blade and insert it into the keyway to heat the mechanism. The best way to do it is to insert the key and heat the handle with a match or doubled up set of cardboard matches, as we had back in the day (no BIC lighters). So I did that and let the matches burn down until they burned my fingers. As a result I reflexively dropped the glowing stubs of the cardboard matches and they fell into the crack between the hatch and the filler compartment. It was a "you have just done something stupid by dropping fire into the gas tank" moment. I stepped back quickly and was ready to run. Then I thought, "If it hasn't exploded by now, it is not going to." None the less, I used up one of my nine lives just then. WMcD

My Boy Scout troop was based on Long Island. The first camping trip most we were on was to a local camp but the February temps went to -2 F. at night and we all froze. I had a sleeping bag bought with Green Stamps. The leaders should have brought us all home. A year later we had somehow learned a lot. E.g. use two sleeping bag, one stuffed inside the other. Sleep in a sweat suit with a knit hat, gloves, and two pair of socks. That was Operation Igloo in upstate New York. Girls? There were girls? Way before my time.

It might be like a first car which is usually "used" and maybe a bit beat up. You can love it and tinker with it. It is part of the pride of ownship. WMcD

It seems to me you want someone to push you over the edge to buy them. I'll say, buy them. This is particularly so if they are near you (no shipping) and you've heard them to be sure everything works. And if it not too be a strain on the pocket book. Return to factory condition is a tall order and actually can't be acomplished. If there is gross damage to the wood which requires filling, then they are never going to look perfect. But if you're looking from across the room a filler may pass muster. It may be that you can use iron-on birch edging on the exposed ply edges to help with damage and thereby spiff up the appearance overall. It is difficult to ascertain damage to the base. The original facrtory piece is just a piece of plywood. The seller has put them on some sort of riser with claw and ball legs. Sort of funny. But the factory piece could be fixed up with edging and maybe some black or tan paint. There are many wipe on finishes, some called "tung oil" or tung oil varnish. I use more modern stuff. In any case it will somewhat darken the wood and increase contrast. Test on an inconspicuous area. WMcD

You'll note that the graph doesn't show the impedance at at d.c. or zero Hertz, which is what your meter is showing. There is theory here. It is that at some point above resonance the inductive and capacitive effects anul and thus the bottoming out of the impedance shows the voice coil resistance. WMcD

Go to the Technical/Modification section of the forum, look for Impedance Curves topic subsection. You'll find the impedance curve for the Quartet and others. Impedance dips down to about 4.0 ohms or lower. Your measurement which is at d.c. or zero Hertz is very likely correct. WMcD

From the New World (Dvorak). You'll like it.

I think I have done a poor job of explaining things. Let me return to the original question about when we see efficiency ratings of a driver of 4 % or so, how does a horn increase that ? The answer is that the efficency of the driver is when it is in free air or a box with nothing but air in front of the diaphragm. Importantly, we actually want to look at the efficiency of the entire system. We want to put as much energy as possible into the acoustic load. For the PWK analogy that is the the piston in a tub of water versus a piston in a tube (throat of the horn). The best way of doing this analysis is an electrical model of the acoustic situation. This all tracks with Bell Labs paper and Don Keele's paper. Here I've stolen a schematic from the Internet. It is important to realize that the driver is modeled at a voltage source and an impedange which is usually Rg for R generator. There is simple electrical loop which include the load or Rload. Other letters used are used but you'll see it. It is a classic issue of "impedance matching." The maximum power into the load is achieved when the Rgenerator is equal to the Rload. The important issue is that we want to maximize the voltage drop across Rload and also the current thought Rload. In the loop circuit they are sometimes in conflict. You have to consider the driver as having an internal impedance, which is also called the output impedane of the generator. The answer to efficiency of the system is when Rgen is equal to Rload. Stepping back a minute. PWK's major thesis is the doppler effect, like a train with a whistle. Bass notes on the diaphragm are like the train going by. Treble notes are like the train's whistle. When the train speeds by we hear the pitch of the whistle chage to higher and lower notes which the whistle is not actually producing. Therefore we want to stop the train (diaphragm) from moving. That occurs when the diaphragm does not move very much because the system is acoustically efficient. Now we have to step back to an electrial analogy. I know it is complicated but it is the true explanation. We have to study the electrical analogy of the acoustic situation to thereby understand why the efficient horn sounds best.

Okay, now I see your comment. My experience was the inverse of Playboy readers. I was looking at the pictures and not reading the text. Smile. My thought is that you've made beautiful display rooms. But they are not listening rooms. Please take that comment with a good heart. I have nothing but the highest respect for your work and investment. WMcD

Are you using or planing to use any sort of room treatment? WMcD

FWIW. I had some success with hot glue rather than spray-on adhesive. It was to lay down a long string of hot glue on the frame. Then put the fabric over it. Then apply a clothes iron to the fabric to melt the hot glue. WMcD

I'm glad Chris is doing the heavy lifting here. I believe that a horn with output at 20 Hz has not been built, ever. If it were it would be larger than a house. Even then its polar pattern would be omnidirectional at sub frequencies unless it is the size of a warehouse. Of course it is not going to fit in your large living room. WMcD

It's like a boat. A little bit here and there (15% for discussion) makes no difference as long as it doesn't leak.

To add to what Chris has said: You are talking about a 7 foot by 7 foot mouth if you have a 50 square foot mouth. Very generally a radiator stops being omni-directional and starts being directional where the size is 1.0 or 0.5 wavelengths. A 7 foot acoustic wavelength corresponds to about 160 Hz. Therefore you are not getting directional at all down at the "sub" freqs. This involves a concept which must be grasped -- as you go lower in freq the size of the speaker shrinks in terms of wavelength! Turn the knob on that function generator and your speaker gets bigger or smaller! FWIW and IIRC the Bell Labs bass horn in Klipsch Papers had a mouth of about 5 foot by 5 foot and a cutoff of 32 Hz. Approximately 10 feet long with an 8 inch driver. Accch. Such time alignment potential. This BTW is a re-entrant horn like a bullhorn. The Jubilee has about a 5 square foot mouth and a cut off of 32 Hz if you ignore the initial flare. The MCM has a 32 Hz flare. Nelson Pass has described "The Claw" bass horn he made during college. I haven't seen a photo or sketch. He did say that no matter which direction he pointed it, the police showed up. Maybe that is an unintended lesson on directional properties, or lack thereof. Let me suggest you read Don Keele's "Whats So Sacred . . . " on his website. It addresses mid-range CD horns but has calculations and a nomograph on the effect of mouth size, exit angle and directivity, and frequency. The more narrow the beam you wish to have, the larger the mouth. The lower the freq you want, the larger the mouth. And I don't know how this will work out in your room. You can't avoid standing waves caused by reflections from the opposite wall even if you can keep sound off the wall behind the speaker. WMcD

I like Randy's comments. They add a third factor to the obvious. Sometimes a loose connection or a corroded screw down terminal can work for a while and then partially connect. Maybe in your efforts to connect another driver you re-established a better connection in a wobbly situation. Therefore you should hunt down something loose. (This #3.) Even an RCA connector or tube might be involved. You efforts could well have jostled something, even the wiper of a switch or pot. Number 2 is that the amp went into a partial shut down although I've only heard of a full shut down. Does your power amp have any protection circuitry? Number 1 is a partial failure of a voice coil. They can melt and warp and jam the motion which will reduce sound level. It is conceivable that the mechanical jam cleared a bit. Think you should try moving the diaphragm with spread fingers, gently. You might feel some gritty binding. WMcD

USNRET is probably correct. WMcD

My advice is to not fool with tracks like these without a subwoofer which will go down to 20 Hz or so and with the proper crossover to prevent these subsonics being fed to the main speaker. A typical crossover point is 70 Hz when main speakers are set to small. I Built a "bigger Belle type" long ago and lost an EV woofer by playing the Telarc T-Rex track. The one with warnings. They are not kidding. "Modern" pop music has these very frequency tones, as do some movie soundtracks. Traditional speaker designs can not handle them. Further, they can't reproduce them and thus there is not warning to your ear that they are even present except for noise and crackling. "Let's be careful out there." Like they said on Hill Street Blues. WMcD

Glue would be unreversible and thus I'd not recommend it. If you are concerned about resonances and rattles let me suggest you use some spray adhesive to fix yoga mat to both surfaces of the ply. No spray adhesive on the speaker or floor side of course. Another material is the liner used for tool drawers. However, this can be more gummy - sticky than you want. WMcD

From now on I keep my mouth shut. Ziiiiiip!

That is not enough information to get us to a specification. Can you tell us more, please? Particularly regarding the subwoofer. Reviewing the Klipsch website I note that most 5.1 collections are just five (5) speakers to attach to your home theater amplifier / receiver (with one caveat of the 0.1 subwoofer). Therefore if that is set up for your mains, things are okay. The caveat is the subwoofer 0.1 included in the collections. The sub contains its own amplifier which is connected to the mains and therefore must be compatible with that higher voltage --- or a step-down transformer is needed (dropping mains 240 volts down to American spec 110-120 mains volts). I've looked at the photos of some Klipsch subs and notice that the voltage input from the mains is listed at the back plate as being 110 to 240 volts. You must check what you have of course. But that means the power supply for the internal amplifier in the sub is designed to adjust to the various mains voltage. All you will need in theory is the correct plug connector to go into your wall outlet. Some have a wireless transmitter and that must be considered too. It probably has a "wall wart" transformer. Please do confirm this with a dealer or whoever is selling you these items. If there is a failure you'll need someone to address the situation. $$$$ WMcD

My guess is that it is not from Klipsch and is home-built perhaps based on EV plans. There is no label on the bass bin (right?) and no markings on the crossover (right?). The Real McCoy would have both these. The mid-horn seems to be a Cobraflex by Electrovoice -- to my knowledge Klipsch never used those but rather his own K-5 or K-400. OTOH EV probably did use them in one of their licensed K-Horn variation IIRC. The drive is a University? Klipsch did use those early on. OTOH the crossover looks sort of Klipsch. As always, I stand to be corrected. WMcD