Jump to content

jjptkd

Heritage Members
  • Posts

    5202
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jjptkd

  1. This is the guy here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Repair-Service-Klipsch-RW12D-Send-Us-Your-Non-Working-Amp-We-Will-Repair-It-/281730281926?hash=item41986ef1c6 I've never dealt with him personally but he has extensive positive feedback. This listing isn't for the plate you have so you'd have to email him and tell him what you have. Good luck with the repair!
  2. There's a guy on eBay who repairs those, I'll try and find him for you.
  3. Do you have pictures? Did you buy these new? Are you willing to ship these? What is your asking price? Thanks! Jesse
  4. Congrats! Placement is one big experiment and each room and personal taste will play a factor. I would suggest taking at least a half an hour to try different positions with different music. I've found I like the speakers about a foot off the rear wall and at least 18 inches to 2ft from the side walls. I usually toe them in for low to mid level listening and point them forward if I want to really crank them up. Hope this helps, congrats again, I'm excited for you!
  5. We have a WINNER folks! Just get the Klipsch THX system and never look back. thrse are good. IF you can score a used pair and amp for around 1500$. I don't think they are worth any more than that. I was able to pick up a pair of banged up subs (mushroomed corners from shipping damage) on eBay for about $750 for the pair then added a brand new Samson SX3200 (750x2) for $500 so about $1250 total investment. This set up will blow the doors off of a pair (2) of RSW-15's in terms of low end shake and total output. It's almost hard to believe that a pair of 12's can produce so much bass in such relatively small cabinets. Overall I'm very happy with the Ultra 2's performance. I do think that for low level, critical listening with music the RSW-15's are cleaner, more "musical" if you will. And my buddies UM-18 in a ported cabinet seems to do the subsonic rumble a bit better in terms of room shake and quivering like on the movie "Interstellar." So really I find them as a good "middle of the road" setup that does both music and movies quite well but not the best of either that I have heard.
  6. Unfortunately the KG's are going to be tough to get any real money out of, even with the Crites mods. I typically see the 3's sell for around $125-$150 and maybe a little more for the 4.2's but not much. They're great speakers for what they are. If you still have your stock parts for the 4.2's you might be able to sell the Crites stuff on eBay separately to squeeze out a little more cash or if you're talking titanium tweeter diaphragms they'll swap right over to the Heresy II or Forte II. A near mint pair of H II's typically sell for around $600 or so and even moderately worn Forte II's will still usually sell for around $400. There's no doubt in my mind that you'd like the Forte II's over all the above mentioned speakers, if you have the room for them. The H II's have the same basic foot print anyway so hard to save space with those over the Forte II.
  7. I agree with the above posts, buy both pairs if they're in good shape and sort it out later.
  8. At first glance the Forte I & II sound very much alike. I was actually selling a pair of I's and II's at the same time once and had a buyer interested in a set. I listed the I's at $300 because they were the I's and plain oak with some wear. I was asking $500 for the II's because, well, they were II's and they were near mint walnut. The buyer brought his own, and very strange music that I had never heard and he insisted on swapping them out back and forth multiple times over I'd say about an hour and a half. We were very careful about exact placement and seating position and after all that time we both agreed that the Forte II was just a bit better overall. He ended up buying the I's from me because he couldn't justify the price difference for a very slight increase in performance.
  9. When I remove each tweeter I hold onto the speaker wires and partially put one of the mounting screws back in the cabinet then wind the negative wire around the screw so the wires drop down inside the cabinet. If the wires drop down inside the cabinet (which has happened to me a couple of times) it can easily double the amount of time it takes to swap the diaphragms as you usually have to remove and re-install another driver to get to the wires. Just a heads up. I've replaced several sets of tweeter diaphragms without touching the crossovers and its a nice improvement, good luck!
  10. Everything is a compromise I guess. If you have the room and wattage for multiple, sealed 18" subs I can't really imagine anything significantly better than that. Really, there are just way too many variables to say anything definitive about anything. For one thing, two people would have to agree on what "good" is to begin with and with certain individuals that may very well be impossible on its own. Fortunately this is just a hobby for most and experimentation is part of the fun. The key is finding what works best for your ears, in your room, which will almost certainly be different from the next guys requirements / tastes.
  11. Without reading through all 7 pages I'd just like to point out that if you spend thousands today on a brand new sub(s) it should very well be both "musical" and HT competent. Obviously room, room size and position of both the sub(s) and listening position are going to play huge parts. Now when you're speaking of older, less expensive subs I believe there is a notable difference between subs that were designed for "music" and those that were designed for home theater. A couple clear examples off the top of my head are the Klipsch SW line, specifically the 10 and 12" models and also the RSW-10. To me, these seem clearly designed for music and are actually very good for that purpose when mated with bookshelf speakers or monitors. When it comes to theater I think of the HSG? Sub10 & Sub12 with the down-firing driver and rear facing port. When in the right room they can provide plenty of rumble for movies but I would not depend on them for filling in the bottom end for music. They would be better than nothing but not my first choice. Anyway, just my two cents. Jesse
  12. Currently I'm the high bidder on the 75's..
  13. The original Adcom 555 was like nails on a chalkboard but the newer 5500 & 5800 sound very smooth. Having worked with the repair tech's at Bob Carver's repair shop I was told that a lot of brand new amps back in the '80's / '90's were shipped back because of hum / buzzing sound complaints from predominately Klipsch owner's. Having owned probably well over 100 Carver amps myself I've only experienced this a couple of times on my Chorus II's though.
  14. The RC-7 or RC-64 II should clear things up. I recently switched from the 7 to the 64 II and felt it was slightly better in overall clarity but lacking a bit in bass response compared to the 7. Weak centers always had me wanting to turn up the volume during quiet passages only to have turn it back down as soon as something loud happens. The 7 & 64 II all but completely cured that.
  15. Thanks guys! I've got one more year before the big 4-0, almost hard to believe. Jesse
  16. Here's a 3.2 next to the picture in the listing next to 2.5's:
  17. They're either 2.2's or 2.5's I'm almost 100% certain. Figure they're 19" tall and the stereo components are 17" wide, if you rotated a speaker and set it on top of the stereo it would leave about an inch on each side.
  18. I like Sunfire power, Parasound, the newer, Mosfet Adcoms like the 5800. I'd probably still be running the Adcom if it didn't raise the room temp by 10+ degrees. The original Acurus 200x3 sounds really nice, didn't care much for the A150 I had though. Some of the Carvers sound great like the M-1.5t and the Silver 7t & 9t's.
  19. Here's a link comparing 5 top coolers, shows all their features and a 10 day ice test. The Coleman ranks "Best bang for your buck" and the Engel won overall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-TE4RnqT0U
  20. Considering the Coleman is 25% of the price, is half the weight, has better ice retention and lost most of its point difference because of the lack of non-skid feet, (which I'm sure could easily be added) makes it a very simple NO for me, it is not worth the extra cost, in my opinion. But I don't have any experience with the other coolers so maybe I'm missing something??
  21. Looks like a nice pile of firewood to me, except for possibly the H-II cabinets.
  22. I've never had the privilege to listen to a set of RF-5's before but have read many good things about them. There's a couple pairs listed locally to me right now in the Seattle area and they have me curious. I've owned the RF-3, RF-3 II and the RF-35's and looking at the specs published by Klipsch they are all nearly identical to the RF-5. The RF-5 actually uses the same exact 8" woofers as the RF-3 in a similar sized cabinet, both tweeters use a 1" titanium type driver so the differences I see are the size of the horn and possibly crossover design? Has anyone compared the RF-3 line directly to the RF-5? Any input would be great, thanks!
  23. Great ad.. I'm a little confused on what it has for a motor though, "305 V-6 Big Block??"
  24. I wonder if tweeter placement is part of the issue as I notice its mounted in the center of the cabinet instead of up high near ear level. Is the Eminence woofer part of the original build? Is it 8ohm or 4ohm? Maybe the woofer is playing too loud. Other than that I'd have to assume its a crossover problem as I find it hard to believe that a mammoth tweeter like that would have any problem keeping up. Good luck sorting it all out!
×
×
  • Create New...