MetropolisLakeOutfitters

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About MetropolisLakeOutfitters

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    http://www.paducahhometheater.com/

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  1. If we were talking about the RF-7ii it would be a different story, but very few people like the original RF-7's.
  2. RF-7 = super bright and fatiguing RP-280F = technically a less capable tweeter that is much smaller in terms of surface area, but they are much more comfortable in terms of listening fatigue and sound more laid back.
  3. It's not 100% applicable to the real world but at least when dealing with perfect environments, you can easily model this stuff in REW, for free.
  4. The normal ones aren't that good for sub use, they clip too easily. Make sure you get the HD version. Those should be fine. I'm switching to Xilica.
  5. Yeah but a simple sweep is a matter of choosing a calibration file, hooking up the wires, and choosing which frequencies to play. Just not hard at all.
  6. Just doesn't matter with subs nowadays. Some of the best and highest extending and most accurate midbass drivers are 18's. Better to match than to try to partake in such things. It's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
  7. Did you finally buy a microphone? I honestly didn't realize that you owned one. Last I checked you didn't.
  8. You've picked like the polar opposites in terms of sound. Original RF-7's are so bright that most people hate them unless they mod the crossover, and the RP-280F is very laid back comparatively. I'd get the 280's.
  9. If you're starting over anyway, use the CDT-5800-C-II, the woofer housing pivots and the tweeter can be aimed separately.
  10. The entry level Camaro has almost the same horsepower as a Jeep Wrangler. Shouldn't they drive the same?
  11. Not just the size but the ref premier has titanium tweets and are just smoother up high. It would simply sound more pleasant with ref premier up front. These would work ok for surrounds at least for awhile though. Yes most any decent receiver is 7.2 nowadays so just get one of those and upgrade speakers as budget allows. Just shoot for an easy upgrade path and you'll be ok.
  12. Plan on an RP-450C and at least one R-115SW. You're just going to end up there anyway. Get some RP-280F's, or 260's if you wanted to save a few bucks. Use your existing towers for surrounds. That will get you going. If possible get some RP-250S and put them on the sides and put your existing towers behind you with the idea that you'll upgrade them later, otherwise just use the towers as surrounds for now and upgrade those later first as budget allows.
  13. That's why I like subs up front under the screen. The reality is that most AVR's are 12 db/octave on the subs and this can't be changed.
  14. Does this mean you have an acoustically transparent screen and can do identical LCR's?
  15. Whether they should or not is a different debate, but most crossovers aren't a brick wall for one, and material that goes up to 120 hz is recorded in the LFE track on blu rays. A typical 12 db / octave slope with a typical 80 hz crossover point and typical 120 hz LFE setting will have 3 digit frequencies coming through the subs a little, you can hear it on floor toms on concert blu rays.