Paducah Home Theater

Goodness where do I start with this thread as a whole. 1. Cory HAD some Jubilees on Facebook. The veneered ones are all sold at this point, sold my last two pair on the same day on Sunday. I have a pair of new black factory sealed ones available. Was going to split them up but at this point I'm not interested as I will be stuck with an orphan forever. That's it, other than the original factory prototypes of the new style from 2009. 2. Yes I have some 402's available, but, those are the entire assemblies. That's the stands, horns, and compression drivers, not just the lens. I've had multiple people contact me about the lens but that's not the case. Literally everybody at Klipsch including Roy has said that it's perfectly fine to sell these assemblies by themselves since it's a standalone product with a Klipsch serial number so I'm not being shy about offering those for sale. Yes I have the assemblies. Yes you are free to buy them by themselves. No I don't have just the lens. 3. Since believe it or not I can sense judgmental disdain, or at the minimum I feel that an explanation is warranted since that screenshot is now public... Klipsch customer support told me directly that I can offer individual upgrade parts from the Forte 4 to Forte 3 customers. They weren't advertising it as kit but I can order the parts individually. I got about two "kits" out the door before a Klipsch employee saw it and started hollering about it being unauthorized. As of now I have to halt selling these, perhaps while an internal debate is conducted, perhaps indefinitely, IDK. Don't really care that much lol. Personally I think offering a cheaper and easier upgrade path is the proper thing to do if the enclosure and woofer and radiator and mid horn is the same. Just as one example, the first guy to buy these parts was from Seattle. For him to upgrade easily, he'd have to take two days off from work, I'd have to arrange for a truck to pick up his Forte 3's, send them from Seattle to Kentucky, inspect and test them, send some Forte 4's to Seattle, then sell the used Forte 3's on eBay at a loss, then mess with a bunch of paperwork. If the same thing can happen with a few parts, I'm all for it. But others don't see it the same way. Which is perfectly fine. I have better things to worry about to be honest. So, everyone disregard the Forte 3/4 upgrade comments please.

Call me. 270-556-8427

I find it humorous that someone would gush over the humbleness of his T-shirt and the extravagance of a 6 digit platinum Rolex, all at the same time. Might as well just say I have a total man crush on the sexy beast.

lol, might as well just delete this thread.

My personal opinion is that if your cabinet is vibrating to the point that you need to take it off the floor to prevent excessive vibrations from emanating into the floor then your subwoofer sucks.

Breck.

That's probably because you got cherry. Tons of them are like that. This is assuming the lines were right in the middle. If so, the wood comes in like that from the veneer company for some reason. They make them with kind of a seam. Walnut and black never do this. It looks more funny on some than others. That's happened maybe twice to me, ever, at least one was on Cornwalls. I can't prove anything but what I assume happens is that they weren't totally secured on the assembly line, just kind of barely attached, which passed the final inspection (at the end of the line they hook them up and run a sweep to make sure all drivers function), then during shipping a big bump on the trucks cause the wire to fall off. If they were just slopping them together and hoping for the best and totally missing a wire, it wouldn't pass the final sweep test, yet somehow it did.

They sound almost identical so you'd probably be hard pressed to tell them apart in an atmos setup, however, just knowing that they're mismatched will probably drive you crazy if you have any hint of OCD at all. So I can't imagine keeping them personally.

I mean, that's an overly complex and scary way of saying rooms can have nulls, which you are more prone to have if you have a single subwoofer. Multiple subs actually help with this. It's ideal to have four actually, either in the corners or wall midpoints. Normally I would say to download the REW software as they have a room simulator but you've got so much going on especially with that wall in the middle that it probably won't be able to model it accurately. In a normal room it works pretty good, you can move your subs around and try to minimize your nulls. Biggest problem you have is that nothing is even close to being symmetrical at all, it would be very difficult to get a proper plan to recommend here. Typically the most simplest recommendation is to treat your first reflection points but you don't even have a wall to the left of the couch. So basically it would be danged near impossible to just look at this and say you should do this. Personally I'd probably at least try to treat the wall on the right because that's going to sound funny having reflections on one side and a big open space on the other. Otherwise maybe a panel behind each speaker. I'm assuming that back wall will have art or something, most people wouldn't treat their dining room walls. So yeah unless you can get it symmetrical and in a more dedicated space it would be hard to get any decent responses.

The PRO-180-RPC sounds better in terms of smoothness. It's not as bright and the drivers blend better. It also installs easier, which was the whole point of them. Some people still want the CDT's because they can be aimed. Personally I think that functionality is overrated but it's important to a lot of people, that's something you'll have to decide. But yes the CDT's are brighter / harsher. Personally I don't like listening to them unless I can flip the tweeter attenuation switch on them which pulls the tweeter back 3 db. They're still a little bright and piercing if that tweeter is aimed right at your head, not sure why that is something everybody wants to do.

It's because you removed or lost the jumpers in the rear. There are two separate terminals, one for the tweeter, one for the woofer. Klipsch did this so you could bi-amp them. If you do not want to bi-amp them, there is an included jumper so that one signal can power both drivers. You remove this jumper if you want to bi-amp. You basically have no jumper and your signal is only powering the woofer, your tweeter isn't working at all. Either put that jumper back in, or buy an aftermarket one if it's lost, or just connect the two with a piece of wire. The back should look like this, notice the gold bars:

Pretty much every time I have seen this is was due to poor room acoustics.

I rewrote this last year: -------------- Q: How many Klipsch Owners does it take to change a crossover? A: 1 to change the crossover and to post that the crossover has been changed. 14 to share similar experiences of changing crossovers and how the crossover could have been changed differently. 7 to caution about the dangers of changing crossovers. 17 purists who say it's not "Klipsch" anymore. 6 to argue over whether it's 'crossover' or 'cross-over'. Another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid. 22 to tell THOSE 6 to stop being jackasses. 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is 'network'. 249 to post meme's and gif's. 19 to post that this page is not about crossovers and to please take this discussion to a crossover page. 11 to defend the posting to this page saying that we all use crossovers and therefore the posts are relevant here. 16 to post 'Following' but there's 3 dots at the top right that means you don't have to. 36 to debate which method of UPGRADING crossovers is superior, where to buy the best components, what brand of capacitors work best for this, and what brands are faulty. 11 to get highly offended at the term "upgrade". 7 to ask if the brands of capacitors used are worth the money. 5 People to post pics of their own crossovers. 5 to post to the page that they will no longer post or are leaving because they cannot handle the $!%cking crossover controversy. 6 to report the post or PM an admin because someone said "f÷×$" 17 people to take screenshots and post them in other groups and forums. 5 crossover builders who want to get in on the argument or take up for themselves and try to join the group. 2 to question the available testing equipment of said crossover builders. 4 to say "Didn't we go through this already a short time ago?". 13 to say "Do a search on crossovers before posting questions about crossovers". 1 to take screeenshots and send them to Klipsch to try to make me look bad. 2 engineers to want me to ban anybody who dare change crossovers and leave when I won't. 3 to remind everyone that Klipsch rebuilds crossovers. 19 to ask who does the rebuilding, who do they call, how much does it cost, how long does it take, and other details. 0 to respond because apparently nobody actually knows that. 1 late arrival to comment on the original post 6 months later and start it all over again.

Never elevate side surrounds to the ceilings if you can keep from it. Nowadays with Atmos systems, technically the most correct is at ear level and the same height as your mains although they reneged and changed the specs to allow for slightly elevated ones. Typically 1-2' above ear level is what people use. Your average ear height is about 40". The tops of a typical surround being about 5 1/2" high is usually about right, 6' to the tops is getting on up there and is about the highest I'd ever be comfortable with. I wouldn't go higher than that personally. Kind of depends on your angles as well. Dolby has several printouts for both traditional 5.1 as well as newer Atmos systems, I'd read up on those and study the angles / height recommendations.

The problem with a phantom center is when you run into the following situations: 1. center channel only is playing 2. outside mains only are playing 3. center is playing one thing and outside mains are playing something else 4. all 3 front speakers are playing the same thing ... every one of these situations sound exactly the same with a phantom center. It's not ideal. Panning across a wide screen isn't going to work well either. The only time it halfway works is if you have a fairly narrow screen and have one seat in the sweet spot and you're just paying attention to speech that's coming out of the middle. That's about it. Most any other situation kinda sucks.

It's basically about the same thing except the vented tweeter. That thing acts like a port, basically the extreme low end of what the tweeter handles has a little more output, sounds a little thicker, smooths out the crossover region more than anything.

Yeah I had several brand new ones last year. They had a big pile of European ones that we had to convert as explained earlier. Then the parts guys realized what I was doing and cut me off lol. They reserved the rest for warranty replacements. Apparently some were sold that still have an active warranty on them so they're keeping those around to steal parts off of if / when a claim happens.

The _potential_ problem is that it doesn't really work like that. Crossovers aren't a brick wall. Content that is much higher than people realize comes through subs even with proper crossover points. Low male voices and floor toms for example. But, when you combine an internal subwoofer crossover with the internal integrated amp crossover, the slopes are additive, getting you closer to said brick wall. It can sound funny to some, your upper harmonics in music can get robbed, all you get is the lower mushy stuff. Car audio setups actually do use brick wall steep slopes like 24 db/octave at 65 hz I believe, maybe 60, somewhere close to that, but they do so because they take a stereo hip hop recording then boost the bass to high heavens. Most home setups don't have super steep subwoofer slopes. It could potentially work fine but it depends on how well you integrate it.

Yeah you can, but, if you use a splitter or use two inputs you can get more out of the sub. The problem with SVS is that their gain structure is very low, I've heard Klipsch subs are actually about 2.5 times hotter. Basically what this means is that if you get an integrated amp with a weak subwoofer output, no way to boost it, and only use one input, the subwoofer level is often unsatisfactory. Even if you do nothing but put a splitter on the inputs and use both it can help boost it up in this situation.

That's how ground loops act, could be that. To prove or disprove, you can buy a cheap ground loop isolator online for $10-$12, it just goes in-line with your RCA cables. Make sure both units are plugged into the same outlet, sometimes that fixes it.

50th anniversary of the K-horn at CES. yeah that's the first jubilee. bottom of the page here: https://www.kenkessler.com/hi-fi/natural-born-kessler-1-2/

hard to beat the Halo A23+, even used in the official Klipsch stock pics with cornwalls. Very popular combination.

There is no reason to ever get the cheaper one unless you just simply can never afford the HD but that's probably not the case if we're all honest here. The normal one was literally created to be able to work on USB power. According to a conversation I had with Mark Seaton, they start clipping at like half a volt. Your only saving grace is that Klipsch subs have quite a bit of gain as compared to others such as SVS, so you could keep the levels lower but the gain higher. Realistically speaking the HD is a better unit period.

they re pretty cheap, just buy another set, use one, and keep one as a spare.

ghosts. your house is probably haunted.