parlophone1

The situation with elevated prices is more or less the same in all of the world now. Regarding gadgetry, you can not escape that. Try buying a few years old car in good condition. But the amount of electronic support systems etc. will still be high. Outlander as suggested above could be a good choice.

These LS3/5a are somewhat similar to the Harbeth P3ESR 40th Anniversary Edition, that my friend purchased. I have listened how the convey the music and I sort of know what you are talking about. He was satisfied with little Harbeths for a while, but then started to wander how to improve that bass. After several tries he eventually got the smallest REL powered sub, the REL Tzero. It blends very good with Harbeths and that nicely filled the gap to the lower freqs. So, direct radiator speakers with direct radiator sub (ok, it fires to the floor but lets not be critical about that 🙂).

I did not want blutooth, and I do not want to stream, and I do not want additional wires. Bought a new cheap Pioneer deck with USB, replaced the old unit that was in the car, and voila...listen whatever put into USB flash memory. Many albums. I even got the remote control with that unit. And of course I can plug in a smartphone if needed.

SHE looks at him and says: I love brave men. HE looks her straight in the eyes and says: You got fat.

When I bought my Seiko Automatic with 4R36 caliber it was speeding 11 sec per day exactly and consistently. I wore it for months and checked every day to make sure. Then there was a time gap of a year or so when I did not wear any watch on my wrist. Seiko was in the drawer laying down and not touched in all that time, except once or or twice. When I put Seiko again it was speeding about 60 sec/day. Now it is speeding 45 sec/day. Is it expected behavior for an automatic? I could take it for a cleaning and/or adjustment, it is about 3 years from purchase.

I heard one of these not too long ago, a friend of mine was selling a pair because he moved to a smaller place. They sounded not as bad as many are trying to imply.

The problem that real people feel now with EVs is the battery charging time and not enough charging stations. Not rare to see long lines of Teslas waiting to charge. And the price of new batteries of course, and the ones that are in the car can and will fail.

Taxes in Europe for gasoline/diesel are going to astronomical values. If such a trend continue, and it does not show any sign of dropping now, these cars will be only for lovers with deep pockets.

Hi, first, how big is your room where speakers would be placed? Second, I would always go for bookshelves in combination with the sub-woofer. But I would be very conservative when buying powered speakers. Look around the forum, there might be some issues with them. My choice would be whatever bookshelves you can afford plus a sub-woofer (which can be powered).

RIP 🥺

All pretty much the same as what I hear when connecting the NC400 monoblocks in my system. 😊 I just put back my AB class amp when I want a bit less clinical, still enough details in music, at least what I can hear.

Seems like a small room they are into. Very nice looks. 🙂

I see your reasoning regarding the change of binding posts. However, them being too shallow to fully seat banana plug is nothing to worry about. Binding post on all the sets of speakers that I have are like that. Just push the banana plug until it stops, and if it fits tight that is enough for signal to travel. If cosmetics are what bothers you, then yes, you could change them. And for harsh mids-highs, just let the speaker play a few weeks. And if they are still harsh, see how is your room acoustics. May be try to play with speakers placement and some wall absorption on first reflection zone.

It is a new speaker and not muck tweaking is expected to be found yet. And according to reported experiences from members of the community here that actually have these, tweaking is not needed since speakers are designed very well. If you have already opened them, you can try some damping with what you think would be the best material, and hear the difference.

I don't know what do you mean by side four. It is one LP disc, so there are only two sides. Here it is how the album looks like (click the link bellow image to expand more pictures), it is the European edition from 2019 https://www.discogs.com/release/13487468-Yes-Yes

YES record store day limited edition

Upgrade the TT only if you need to. I do not know if you will hear improvement just upgrading to the SL1200GR, which really is a nice and sturdy piece of machinery. As said above, the cartridge is where improvements can be heard immediately. Ortofon 2M bronze is a nice MM cart. Only thing better than that is of course the black. I haven't heard both although I have the red. But many opinions on the internet that I have seen agree that upgrading to black in their systems not necessarily lead to improvements, maybe more clinical but not so musical as the bronze. If upgrading in that direction, you could try some MC carts that are compatible with your tonearm. On the other hand and connected to the above, I suppose that you use the built in phono preamp within the Yamaha as2200. The thing is (unless I am mistaking) that this amplifier does not have the possibility for adjusting the gain for MC carts. So if going for the MC cart, you will have to make your choice according to the specification for MC cart that goes within AS2200. Or you could invest in a separate phono amp. Choices ... 😀

I tried every possible method that I could find on internet, including the equilateral triangle position. They all had pros and cons with my set of speakers and in several rooms I tried them. Equilateral triangle was one of the worst. I believe this is due to how the speakers are designed and of course the room acoustics. But even though the RF42IIs are advertised as good for 2-channel listening, I suspect there is more about that to explore. Clearly the bass region heavily depend on corner loading. Placing them in equilateral triangle (especially if they are a bit more away from the front wall) gets the high freqs tiny, bass is boomy and there are gaps in mid-region. One part I had no problems in any kind of placement is the brighter female voices. RP 8000 is much more capable speaker, so you should easily get them right.

I could share my experiences with RF42 II speakers. Mentioning that only because the line of speakers is similar to yours, only a generation or two apart. With no room treatment, my speakers sound the best when placed in corners of the room and fired diagonally to the opposite corners of the room. The amount of bass is in correlation with the pulling the speakers out of corners. My speakers are bass shy, so I have them only 8-10 inches away from the corner, measured from the corner to the rear end of the speaker. Try to experiment with the distance to the corners of the room for best acoustical integration of all drivers.

Very true. Until the age of five I do not remember if I ever had a knee without a scar 😃

Any news on this?

Christmas is at the door. City is decorated with ornaments and other stuff. No time to wander around with camera during the day, so here are few photos taken mostly at night with a Kodak Gold 200. Film is not the best tool but I wanted to see what can be done with old technology 😀

Congratulations for becoming a distinguished forum member originating from European country. I would not take much to my heart all the stats of the forum and especially not the verbal miscommunication issues. We are all humans... Your knowledge and enthusiasm is spotted and that is what counts. Stay well...

I have been using Knukonzeptz Kord Ultraflex 10 gauge with no apparent issues. Flexible, durable, just good conductors.

I got these Monoprice cable to connect my balanced Hypex monoblocks with RCA connections in a preamp. It works fine. If you care about the proper way of wiring from balanced to theRCA, here is some read about it. https://www.hypex.nl/img/upload/doc/an_wp/AN_Legacy_pin_1_problems.pdf